ignition switch replacement - Page 2

mr_cox · 03-25-07, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93lsz

What did you cut?
Did mine and didn't cut anything. And while you are at it, take the main relay out and resolder the joints.

on mines i think the alarm is hooked up to it..
and resolder the joints in the main relay? pics?

mr_cox · 03-25-07, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sr5guy

Theres quite a bit of current running through that switch, I wouldn't recommend cleaning it if you plan on keeping the car long.

-Matt

what are u talking about?

mr_cox · 03-28-07, 07:14 PM

all replaced.. car starts up fine now :-)

scanboyd · 03-18-12, 05:54 PM

Symptoms crank but die when you let go of the key, none of the normal dash lights on until you put the key in start position. I drove about 20 miles holding key in start position, let off enough where starter disingages and engine keeps running. Purchased switch at Advance Auto $72.00, limited life time warranty.

Just a few inside facts that have already been discussed. There are three metric nuts-screws that hold the bottom cover under and around the steering column. On is behind the light dimmer and TCS control button on the left under the air vent, have to pop switches out to get to nut.
Move seat back to get under steering wheel, put key in off position and leave in while doing switch exchange, do not move it!! Disconnect neg. post on battery.
On my 1994 Acura Legend GS, the electrical iginition switch harness was straped on top of the steering column.There is no way I could have gotten it out with out droping the column. It is easy two bolts and two nuts and it is down. Suggestion unplug ignition switch cable from left kick panel as well as removing the bottom screw on the ignition switch, prior to droping steering column. I actuall used a very small metric socket ratchet to remove the metric nut-screws from the back of the ignition switch, two of them, easier than with philips screw driver. With the column down unscrew top screw, pay attention to how the switch is mounted. Then install inreverse order. Took me about a one and half hours. If I did it on a regular basis porb. abouot 30-45 min. max. Good luck.

fuhombrechu · 01-18-13, 06:21 PM

I have that problem right now where I have to hold the key in place for the engine to stay on.

So I need to buy a new SWITCH? or IGNITION SWITCH? is there a difference? A guy at a shop said sometimes the wiring is all that needs to be changed.

Changing the entire part which sounds to me like the cylinder that goes into steering column including the key hole and wires looks difficult but that part exists and the guy said it doesn't. Which part do I need?

I went oreilly auto parts and searched ignition switch for 1994 acura legend gs and it has both ignition starter and ignition + starter switch.

ActionJackson · 01-18-13, 06:27 PM

You just need the wire harness that is attached to the back of the ignition and runs over to the main under- dash fuse block.

fuhombrechu · 01-18-13, 09:35 PM

what part would that be called?

fuhombrechu · 01-18-13, 10:05 PM

the guy at the shop said to even diagnose the problem they might have to take out the one time use bolt that attaches to the steering column so wouldnt they have to replace the whole part anyway?

ari_one · 01-19-13, 09:04 PM

It is called an ignition switch, here is one from Oreilly's: Import Direct Ignition 18-0482 - Ignition Switch | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Installation is two screws on the ignition side and plug into the fuse box, might have to unplug a connector in between that holds the harness in place.

Boru · 01-20-13, 11:42 AM

Here is a link to the location. The view is from the firewall side; not from the
drivers seat side. As Ari stated, there are two screws, and a connector. To
access the switch, one has to remove the lower dash and work up under
the dash behind the mechanical part of the ignition switch (which also
locks the steering wheel and involves the "one-time bolt.") One can replace
the electrical part w/o involving the bolt or the mechanical part. I spent about
two hours doing mine; and could probably do it in less than hour a second time.
I laid on my back in the driver's seat with feet over the backrest and used a
mirror to see where everything was. The part cost about 60-65 dollars shipped.
It turned out that mine was not broken; only displaced because a bolt was
broken. I zip-tied mine back in place; because the broken end of the bolt was
still in the mechanical part. That still works; but, changing the entire unit including
the mechanical part would be more ideal. Once out the broken bolt part could
be removed and replaced. The one-time bolt can be replaced by a conventional
bolt; but is meant as a security feature (steering wheel lock feature.) Sorry
about long post. GL.

Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 1019)