Interior Bulb Upgrade - Finally found bulbs! - Page 6

FutureX 2001 · 02-12-04, 11:34 AM

THANKS, ordered. I ordered some spares too

Volk Racing · 02-12-04, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 2gracer
volk, thats what I figured you did, was an led at each button because there is no way one led would work. I used to own a 5th gen accord, and thats how people did it, but for the legend it just seemed easier to use bulbs...I'd like to see how it came out, so if you'd post pics that would seriously be great...for the auto shifter how'd you do that, I am going to be doing the same thing and doing an led at each letter I just would like any info, I found out how to calculate the resistance and all that needed, so now I just need to sort of dig in, how did you hook up the leds to a powersource? I may find I need to do an led at each button for my a\c but for now it seems a bulb will work as long as it lights up my defroster, but for my shifter it will be leds...also in the shifter what color leds would I need to get a blue color out of the reds? or if I put a red one there and let it light up really red I guess that'd do too...thanks a ton, I had no idea you had even done any of this so any help is appreciated

I'll get the pix this weekend, I haven't had time to get batts for my cheapo camera since I work/school everyday.

What I did to the AT selector letters is made a base. I got a plastic notebook folder and cut a rectangle, and poked small holes for the LEDs. Each one at the letters. I used WHITE leds, but the numbers came out blue because of the tint behind the letters. The white LED behind the red part came out normal red. So basically I used white LEDS in everything and it comes out blue. Using bulbs make them come out white is because the bulbs are actually amber in color, so it mixes and become sorta white. White LEDs however shine true white light, so the tint makes it come out blue.

I'll have pictures of my workings this weekend. Show before/after pix and how I did them. They are clearly better than bulbs, and make the letters/buttons look very clean cut/sharp.

MLC · 02-12-04, 01:20 PM

For some reason I can not get the plastic covers off of my doors. They bend to the point at which they look like they're are about to break. I'm using a small screwdriver and I'm afraid of breaking them, any other tool you might suggest?

FutureX 2001 · 02-12-04, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by VolkRacing
I'll get the pix this weekend, I haven't had time to get batts for my cheapo camera since I work/school everyday.

Volk did you finish the Speedometer/LED project?

Volk Racing · 02-12-04, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by FutureX 2001
Volk did you finish the Speedometer/LED project?

I started halfway before I wanted to sell the car. I had the RPM side done, and it looked GREAT. Very bright and clear cut. Almost like the RL gauges. But when I decided to put my car up for sale... I chunked it in the can. But now, I'm doing the project all over again, so they are not finished. All these stuff is REALLY custom work. 1st time I used LEDs that were only 2mm X 3mm X 2mm, like a cube particle, LOL. But I'm going to use a bunch of 5mm LEDs this time. Those particle LEDs drove me insane, but they did spread light very well.

There's sanding of the back face gauges involved. They used black paint over the numbers that were directly under the stock light bulbs and the numbers that were farther didn't have the black paint. They did that to have the 'even' glow of all the letters. Also, there is a layer of green plastic just like in the buttons to compensate for the amber bulbs. So alot of sanding is involved and ofcourse, alot of soldering and wiring.

LEGENDARY 93 · 02-13-04, 12:22 AM

Man, Volk-- if you got this down pat, u could outsell those reverse indiglows!!...........

Volk Racing · 02-13-04, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by LEGENDARY 93
Man, Volk-- if you got this down pat, u could outsell those reverse indiglows!!...........

Hm.. that's a pretty good thought, but I doubt it'll sell much. the back housing of the cluster is needed since that's where the LED's will be embedded/mounted. And the needles will need to be removed to replace the gauge faces with the sanded down version to removed that green/blue layer. Sounds like a $250 item oppose to the $50 indiglos (correct price?).

The thing that is cool though is that the needles I used to replace it is 5th gen Preludes. I had to obtain a 5th gen Prelude cluster just for the needles! The reason why I used those needles is because it's the closest length, and they glow if LED is put under it.

Most of you are thinking.. "wouldn't removing the needes uncalibrate the gauges??". Yes, BUT I found out how to calibrate it EXACTLY where it was left off. There are 3 connections on the back of the needle motors. When applie voltages to a pair of them, they will ALWAYS point to a specific MPH. And there are 3 points that they point depending which connections you applie voltage to. You can apply 3volts ~ 12 volts, and they will ALWAYS point to a specific MPH point. So just take note before removing them. When installing, refer back to your notes which MPH it should point to at which connections you apply voltage to. I found the secret =D

LEGENDARY 93 · 02-13-04, 12:41 AM

send me some pics and i might be down... like corky

Volk Racing · 02-13-04, 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by LEGENDARY 93
send me some pics and i might be down... like corky

Oh, the pics for the cluster project is going to be delayed. Remember.. I had to start all over since I chunked the last one. So i just started on this one.... But pictures will be taken during the process and after. I won't do a "write-up" but I'll just show what I did. There's too much specific steps to do and ..... ya know.. I'm kinda lazy to do write-ups... =P

LEGENDARY 93 · 02-13-04, 12:46 AM

me too. i did the mdx shift knob thang and i never did a diy on it. lemme know when its done. where r u in GA?? anywhere near ft benning??

Volk Racing · 02-13-04, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by LEGENDARY 93
me too. i did the mdx shift knob thang and i never did a diy on it. lemme know when its done. where r u in GA?? anywhere near ft benning??

Hmm.. I dunno where Ft. Bennin is, so I prolly pretty far from it. I am in northern part of Metro ATL.

After I saw your shift knob dealy, I want to do something similiar. Like... get a leather shift boot and a shift knob. Then make it a push down like yours or the RL. Yea yea.. manual wannabe, but hey, I've seen some factory ATs with shift boots too. I think in some Mercedes. All mercedes are AT, and I think I saw some use a shift boot. :p

FutureX 2001 · 02-13-04, 07:15 AM

Hey Volk did you test out your re-calibration theory? So let's say you popped off the needles and they're uncalibrated now... basically you ad the charge to those two connections and manually move the needle to where it's suppose to be at... then release the voltage+needle....have you tested this.. you could save a lot of headaches if what you're saying really works! =D

p.s: my uncle "MrLude" on Hpoa was talking about how cool your prelude was again last night when we went to a movie.. lol

LEGENDARY 93 · 02-13-04, 07:30 AM

volk, if ya need some help w/ the knob, hit me up and i will walk u thru it..

PerzianKabob · 02-13-04, 10:01 AM

Hello Nima:

Because those bulbs are all painted by hand, there are irregularities in the coloration of them. All of our 31 mm incandescent bulbs in stock are like that. Because the LED's don't require paint for them to put out color, they have a more even look to them.

Sincerely,
Tracy

what bull....god this pisses me off. good thing they're only 5$ otherwise i'd be really mad. because there's no where on the site that says...oh we're not going to do a good job painting the bulbs so they'll be some white light getting through.

2gracer · 02-13-04, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by PerzianKabob
Hello Nima:

Because those bulbs are all painted by hand, there are irregularities in the coloration of them. All of our 31 mm incandescent bulbs in stock are like that. Because the LED's don't require paint for them to put out color, they have a more even look to them.

Sincerely,
Tracy

what bull....god this pisses me off. good thing they're only 5$ otherwise i'd be really mad. because there's no where on the site that says...oh we're not going to do a good job painting the bulbs so they'll be some white light getting through.

x2 thats pretty much what they told me except they also said they had no more of the fully dipped ones...which is crap, like I got the last 3? oh well whatever

02-12-04, 11:34 AM	#76 (permalink)
FutureX 2001 L E G E N D Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Montebello, CA Posts: 4,575 Car 1: '95 Coupe Car 2: '94 Sedan GS Car 3: '90 Coupe iTrader: (2)	THANKS, ordered. I ordered some spares too __________________

02-12-04, 01:20 PM	#78 (permalink)
MLC LEGENDARY MEMBER Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: MA Posts: 1,760 Car 1: 94 BLK/BLK COUPE Car 2: 97 Altima GXE 5spd iTrader: (0)	For some reason I can not get the plastic covers off of my doors. They bend to the point at which they look like they're are about to break. I'm using a small screwdriver and I'm afraid of breaking them, any other tool you might suggest? __________________ JDM KA8 Headlights~McCulloch 5300k HID~Fiberglass Eyelids by PJ~JDM KA8 Door Sills~K&N Intake w/OEM CAB~Lightweight Pullies~Bayou Stage II Chip~Stromung B Pipe~Magnaflow Cat~Remus Spec Exhaust~Koni Kontrols~CL-S Type/Ventus 215/50/17~SS Brake Lines~Brembo/Bradi Rotors~DC Tie Bar~KMS Strut Bar~Addco Rear Sway Bar~S2000 Antenna~Shaved Trunk~Optima Redtop

02-13-04, 12:22 AM	#81 (permalink)
LEGENDARY 93 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 1,153 Car 1: 1993 BLACK SEDAN iTrader: (0)	Man, Volk-- if you got this down pat, u could outsell those reverse indiglows!!........... __________________ CAR IS SOLD! GOOD BYE ACURA-LEGEND.COM!!! I got $2,000 for my mods and sold the car for $6300 w/ rims- not too bad for a 93 ls w/ 130k miles!

02-13-04, 12:41 AM	#83 (permalink)
LEGENDARY 93 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 1,153 Car 1: 1993 BLACK SEDAN iTrader: (0)	send me some pics and i might be down... like corky __________________ CAR IS SOLD! GOOD BYE ACURA-LEGEND.COM!!! I got $2,000 for my mods and sold the car for $6300 w/ rims- not too bad for a 93 ls w/ 130k miles!

02-13-04, 12:46 AM	#85 (permalink)
LEGENDARY 93 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 1,153 Car 1: 1993 BLACK SEDAN iTrader: (0)	me too. i did the mdx shift knob thang and i never did a diy on it. lemme know when its done. where r u in GA?? anywhere near ft benning?? __________________ CAR IS SOLD! GOOD BYE ACURA-LEGEND.COM!!! I got $2,000 for my mods and sold the car for $6300 w/ rims- not too bad for a 93 ls w/ 130k miles!

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02-13-04, 07:15 AM	#87 (permalink)
FutureX 2001 L E G E N D Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Montebello, CA Posts: 4,575 Car 1: '95 Coupe Car 2: '94 Sedan GS Car 3: '90 Coupe iTrader: (2)	Hey Volk did you test out your re-calibration theory? So let's say you popped off the needles and they're uncalibrated now... basically you ad the charge to those two connections and manually move the needle to where it's suppose to be at... then release the voltage+needle....have you tested this.. you could save a lot of headaches if what you're saying really works! =D p.s: my uncle "MrLude" on Hpoa was talking about how cool your prelude was again last night when we went to a movie.. lol __________________

02-13-04, 07:30 AM	#88 (permalink)
LEGENDARY 93 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 1,153 Car 1: 1993 BLACK SEDAN iTrader: (0)	volk, if ya need some help w/ the knob, hit me up and i will walk u thru it.. __________________ CAR IS SOLD! GOOD BYE ACURA-LEGEND.COM!!! I got $2,000 for my mods and sold the car for $6300 w/ rims- not too bad for a 93 ls w/ 130k miles!

02-13-04, 10:01 AM	#89 (permalink)
PerzianKabob Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: California Posts: 2,201 Car 1: 1993 Legend LS sedan, 2002 3.2TL iTrader: (1)	Hello Nima: Because those bulbs are all painted by hand, there are irregularities in the coloration of them. All of our 31 mm incandescent bulbs in stock are like that. Because the LED's don't require paint for them to put out color, they have a more even look to them. Sincerely, Tracy what bull....god this pisses me off. good thing they're only 5$ otherwise i'd be really mad. because there's no where on the site that says...oh we're not going to do a good job painting the bulbs so they'll be some white light getting through. __________________ http://www.safetygears.net

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