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| Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)
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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Just picked up a GS and have a few questions
Hi guys... I'm sort of new here in posting as I just now bought a 95 Black GS. I been looking around the forums for some years cause I been wanting a GS for a while. Just sold my Rx-7 and picked up the GS this weekend and need to get it back up to my standards. First thing is going to be replacing the VSS, axles, wheel bearing(I think) and a bad coil pack. This will all be done within the next couple of weeks but after that I want to get the interior done. Whats my best bet for quality in replacing the leather, should I go with katskinz, leatherseats.com or an upholstery shop? Also the carpet, where can I find that for a good price? This would be the whole flooring not the mats.
Everything in the car works great and have a bunch of receipts of all the work done in the past which also include the timing belt and water pump replaced. The previous owner said the front brakes needed replacing along with the rotors but when I picked it up they were fine. Got it home, removed the front wheels and the passenger side brakes looked fine and also the drivers side.. But they were squeeking/rubbing on the rotor but come to find out when I was removing the drivers side wheel I noticed that I could actually wiggle the whole rotor assembly which was attached to the axle(I think). If I am able to move it like that does that mean the wheel bearing is the problem or axle? Should I just replace the axles, wheel bearings and ball joints? If I have to I'll take some pics or a short vid of the whole housing moving. Engine and tranny are great, no smoke, clean synthetic oil and no overheating at all. BTW, I searched and found some of my answers like the flashing D4 and bouncing MPH needle which pointed to the VSS. Also seen the DIY's for the axle's, VSS and other stuff but was mainly looking for help on the leather interior. Thanks for all the help and happy to be here! fran |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Spiral descent
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
Posts: 4,797
Car 1: KA2 Olympia White over Savanna Gray Metallic 5-spd conversion L Car 2: KA7_8 SWP 6-speed Car 3: 1996 A6 iTrader: (7)
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That wiggling on the front hub is most likely your bearing. The axle will move with it, but it won't cause it. Don't replace your axles unless they are crappy or have torn boots. The OEM axles are usually better than most replacement axles.
With the carpet, you probably will have to get a custom carpet. If you are happy with the color, but it's dirty, you can take out the entire carpet piece, and clean it, and they can look almost new again. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Stop eyeballin' me, dawg!
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 1,287
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I am by no means a mechanic- but with my last vehicle I could wobble the entire wheel assembly, and my mechanic said that it was a symptom of a ball joint going bad. Welcome, and enjoy the GS (sweet, isn't it?!). Coupe? Sedan? 6 spd/ Auto?
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#6 (permalink) |
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FIXER
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 1,688
Car 1: 1992 Legend L 265k Black(sold) 1994 Legend LS 175K Green 1967 NOVA SS Bolero Red iTrader: (1)
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Jack that drivers side front tire off the ground and grab the tire at the top and bottom(12 and 6 oclock), try to wiggle it(push and pull). There should be no movement. If there is movement it means worn ball joints.
Then grab the tire at 3 and 9 oclock and push and pull. If there is "free play" the tie rods are worn. Could be inner or outer tie rods. On the Legend the brake rotor is not part of the hub. It slides on to the hub and is pinched between the hub and the wheel. There should be two phillips head screws that secure the rotor to the hub so it stays secure until you need to remove it. If you suspect you have front end problems like ball joints, tie rods, ect... Take it to a shop that can inspect it and give you an estimate. Then decide if you want to attempt the repairs yourself. Worn suspension parts are hard to detect if you don't have experience at it. Tip: If your rack boots that cover the inner tie rods are torn(most are) your inner tie rods will rust and wear out prematurely. Make sure these boots are replaced if any work is done on the tie rods.
__________________
People are often reluctant to pay for good advice but rarely follow free advice. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Thanks Jetdoc.. I'm going to check those things tomorrow but I'm pretty sure that it does both 12 and 6 o'clock and 3 and 9 on the drivers side. When I pulled off the wheel I couldnt believe how the whole hub would move like that.. Someone looking on as I did this said it was the wheel bearing but after reading what you said made more sense. I also heard a banging loud clicking during turning which the banging and scraping would be from the wheel flopping around caused by the ball joint and tie rod. The boots on the axles look good without any tears but I did notice the boot on the end of the rack ripped. Could the axle be damaged because of the ball joint and tie rod going out?
Another issue I just found is the back left caliper might be frozen . I heard it when I bought the car but figured it was due to it needing pads all around.. Well it doesnt need pads and actually the pads on the wheel are worn down more than the opposite side so that noise I been hearing must be a frozen caliper on that wheel. Would the e-brake cause this on only one wheel? I was able to drive the car fine with it rubbing but now I can back up about a foot and that wheel will lock up. The e-brake handle doesnt feel like my honda and is quite easy to fully engage. I just dont know why it would roll a foot than lock up but only when going backward . |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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FIXER
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 1,688
Car 1: 1992 Legend L 265k Black(sold) 1994 Legend LS 175K Green 1967 NOVA SS Bolero Red iTrader: (1)
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Quote:
Left rear caliper. The rotor may be warped from overheating. Jack that wheel off the groung and spin the tire. It shoul rotate smooth. If it seems to drag in one spot then the rotor is warped. I had this problem. It caused a shimmy when slowing from highway speeds. If the caliper is sticking, that wheel will be a lot hotter than the other side after driving. You may need to put new pads on before it's noticable. Rear pads are so easy to change on the Legend.
__________________
People are often reluctant to pay for good advice but rarely follow free advice. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Stop eyeballin' me, dawg!
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 1,287
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Quote:
Fingers were moving quicker than the brain. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Thanks again guys.. Jetdoc, I'll do what you said to check the back rotor/caliper. Was going to order new rotors and pads all around anyways since the ones on there look original and rusted.. Any recommendations? Was looking at some of the zinc coated 4 wheel slotted rotors on ebay but dont have any experience with knowing if they are any good.. For pads either hawk or ebc green stuff. Are the orignal rotors known for warping? If yous have any experience with a perticular seller/brand of rotors please let me know. Thanks again!
fran |
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