Lower Radiator Hose is Cold!!

C-Dog 91LS · 11-17-08, 09:43 AM

My lower radiator hose stays cool to cold even when the car is fully warmed up. I'v recently cahnged t-stat, got new radiator cap, bled and refilled. A couple of times a week, the temp runs up and back down. Did it yesterday on my way to the game. Temp gauge normal most of the time sometimes goes to just a click above normal. The radiator was recently replaced (within the last year). The only weird thing I can think that I know happened was a rubber piece from my old rad cap seems to have fallen off into the rad.

Anybody had this cold lower hose problem? Any ideas?

samblaze · 11-17-08, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clarendon

thank you

You just posted so I don't get it?

OP...is the upper hose getting really hot and does it feel pressurized? Can you hear the t-stat opening/closing? Are you losing coolant at all?

Fluctuating idle is usually a sign of air in the cooling system, follow the DIY on here to bleed and top with coolant and see if air is getting back in the system. I wouls also check your spark plugs (esp #3 and #6 (closes to firewall) for that 'steam cleaned' look. One of the symptoms of my SHG was a heated. distended upper hose and cool lower hose.

C-Dog 91LS · 11-17-08, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samblaze

You just posted so I don't get it?

OP...is the upper hose getting really hot and does it feel pressurized? Can you hear the t-stat opening/closing? Are you losing coolant at all?

Fluctuating idle is usually a sign of air in the cooling system, follow the DIY on here to bleed and top with coolant and see if air is getting back in the system. I wouls also check your spark plugs (esp #3 and #6 (closes to firewall) for that 'steam cleaned' look. One of the symptoms of my SHG was a heated. distended upper hose and cool lower hose.

Upper hose is hot not burning hot. I can hold it but it's not comfortable. Normal shape.

Iddle is steady and normal. I'll check the plugs. I had HG, TB, WP, etc done within the last year.

samblaze · 11-17-08, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-Dog 91LS

Upper hose is hot not burning hot. I can hold it but it's not comfortable. Normal shape.

Iddle is steady and normal. I'll check the plugs. I had HG, TB, WP, etc done within the last year.

Did they re-use the old head bolts? What did they torque them down to? If all that was done recently then let's focus on the small things first - what is this rubber piece that 'fell into' your radiator? Are you using a different cap now? Is the the rubber sealing ring in the rad cap? Is it possible this is blocking the upper rad hose passage? The other classic reason for a cold lower rad hose is a stuck t-stat/blocked upper hose passage.

C-Dog 91LS · 11-17-08, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samblaze

Did they re-use the old head bolts? What did they torque them down to? If all that was done recently then let's focus on the small things first - what is this rubber piece that 'fell into' your radiator? Are you using a different cap now? Is the the rubber sealing ring in the rad cap? Is it possible this is blocking the upper rad hose passage? The other classic reason for a cold lower rad hose is a stuck t-stat/blocked upper hose passage.

I believe all work was done properly. My Mechanic is good.
I Have a new cap now. The rubber piece that fell off was the small piece in the center of the cap. I believe iwas to seal to small opening in the radiator. Would a radiator flush clear any blockage?
The t-stat was replaced a few weeks ago (again).

samblaze · 11-17-08, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-Dog 91LS

I believe all work was done properly. My Mechanic is good.
I Have a new cap now. The rubber piece that fell off was the small piece in the center of the cap. I believe iwas to seal to small opening in the radiator. Would a radiator flush clear any blockage?
The t-stat was replaced a few weeks ago (again).

Wasn't trying to diss your mechanic, just asking man. I agree that a flush is a good idea and that small piece probably won't block anything. Well all I can say at this point is have that new t-stat double checked (it may have been a defective piece) Was it an OEM t-stat? Start the car COLD, with the rad cap off and coolant topped off, when it reaches operating temp the t-stat shuld open and the coolant level will suddenly fall in the radiator (keep topping it off). This takes a while sometimes for it to open. But you should be able to tell if it is opening correctly or not.

C-Dog 91LS · 11-17-08, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samblaze

Wasn't trying to diss your mechanic, just asking man. I agree that a flush is a good idea and that small piece probably won't block anything. Well all I can say at this point is have that new t-stat double checked (it may have been a defective piece) Was it an OEM t-stat? Start the car COLD, with the rad cap off and coolant topped off, when it reaches operating temp the t-stat shuld open and the coolant level will suddenly fall in the radiator (keep topping it off). This takes a while sometimes for it to open. But you should be able to tell if it is opening correctly or not.

No diss taken. Statement wasn't meant the way it read (if that makes sense).
I'll try the flush and have the mech check the tstat.
Thanks for the advice if you come up with anything else, please post back.
If anybody else has ideas, post I'm open.

Steveman09 · 11-17-08, 10:58 PM

A very simple and common G2 issue that is usually overlooked is the gauge in the cluster itself. My G2 TypeII Temp Gauge has proved to be a liar lately. My gauge just starting doing the same thing on its own recently but I wasn't convinced and I had no other signs of a BHG.

So here's something to check out :

Get a Lazer Temperature Gun and check all the Radiator hoses and radiator yourself to see what temperature they are really at. Also remove the Black 3.2L V6 Engine Cover on the drivers side of the engine. You will see a 1-wire Temperature sensor, remove this wire it just pulls off and check for corrosion, I was able to clean mine and it fixed my gauge. Also use the Lazer gun with the car warmed up and read the temp sending unit with the lazer, this will tell you the REAL temp of the engine. It should be anywhere from 200-210F under normal operating conditions.

Now get a DVMM and check the OHMS (resistance) of the ECT Sensor when the engine is COLD and WARMED UP, readings should be :

COLD = MORE THAN 144-ohms
133F = 142-ohms
212F WARMED UP = 39 to 42-ohms

If the sensor is out of specs replace the sensor, if the sensor is within specs your Gauge is most liklely the problem.

reboticon · 11-17-08, 11:17 PM

The lower hose wont get hot until the thermostat opens. Note this is backwards of a typical cooling system. If the car is getting hot, and the lower hose staying cool, you either have excessive air in your system, broken T-stat, or seeping head gasket.

C-Dog 91LS · 11-18-08, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steveman09

A very simple and common G2 issue that is usually overlooked is the gauge in the cluster itself. My G2 TypeII Temp Gauge has proved to be a liar lately. My gauge just starting doing the same thing on its own recently but I wasn't convinced and I had no other signs of a BHG.

So here's something to check out :

Get a Lazer Temperature Gun and check all the Radiator hoses and radiator yourself to see what temperature they are really at. Also remove the Black 3.2L V6 Engine Cover on the drivers side of the engine. You will see a 1-wire Temperature sensor, remove this wire it just pulls off and check for corrosion, I was able to clean mine and it fixed my gauge. Also use the Lazer gun with the car warmed up and read the temp sending unit with the lazer, this will tell you the REAL temp of the engine. It should be anywhere from 200-210F under normal operating conditions.

Now get a DVMM and check the OHMS (resistance) of the ECT Sensor when the engine is COLD and WARMED UP, readings should be :

COLD = MORE THAN 144-ohms
133F = 142-ohms
212F WARMED UP = 39 to 42-ohms

If the sensor is out of specs replace the sensor, if the sensor is within specs your Gauge is most liklely the problem.

THANKS! I'll check this too.

C-Dog 91LS · 11-18-08, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reboticon

The lower hose wont get hot until the thermostat opens. Note this is backwards of a typical cooling system. If the car is getting hot, and the lower hose staying cool, you either have excessive air in your system, broken T-stat, or seeping head gasket.

Damn! I hope it's not the HG. I just had all that done.

flyyoungman1 · 08-11-11, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-Dog 91LS

My lower radiator hose stays cool to cold even when the car is fully warmed up. I'v recently cahnged t-stat, got new radiator cap, bled and refilled. A couple of times a week, the temp runs up and back down. Did it yesterday on my way to the game. Temp gauge normal most of the time sometimes goes to just a click above normal. The radiator was recently replaced (within the last year). The only weird thing I can think that I know happened was a rubber piece from my old rad cap seems to have fallen off into the rad.

Anybody had this cold lower hose problem? Any ideas?

I had the same problem. I changed the thermostat to a new one from the acura store. Do not buy one from anybody other than acura, because they dont work properly for acura cars. Once I changed the thermostat, the car runs great. the thermostat costs about $40 from acura, its more expensive than a generic autostore but it is the only one that will work for your acura. I know because i tried.

L3GDKANG/JDMKANG · 08-11-11, 10:52 PM

This thread is super old but I've bought t stats from auto zone and have never had a issue with one because it has the releave valve on the side just like the Acura 1. I own 7 legends and have only had 1 bhg so far!