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| Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)
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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Shingle Springs, CA (Near Sac)
Posts: 160
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Are my brembos supposed to look like this??
I just got my brembos the other day from Mr. Wood and I thought the slots were going to go all the way through the rotor and then have dimples in them as well...
Turns out that the slots were only indentations like the dimples... I would imaging that brembo knows what they are doing...I just thought that other owners were getting slots that go straight through? Wont the grooves cause more air pockets to form when the brake hits the surface?
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-Inferno http://www.logicis.net/300zx/300zxsig.jpg 92 300ZX TT JWT ECU JWT Intake Test pipes with high flow cats Sebring catback Short Throw shifter Jspec Taillights Stillen GTZR2 front fascia BBS RGII 18x10 rear 18x8.5 front 94 L Sedan - DEAD |
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#2 (permalink) |
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A*L-*yber Legend
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Mine came this same way. At first I really didn't get the concept of this, but now adays you do not need holes drilled all the way through because gases do not build up like they did before. The main reason I guess for the extra holes and slots would be to push the brake dust away from the rotor for better braking.
I haven't had any trouble with my brakes yet and I've put them through a lot of heavy usage.
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-Patrick '91 Legend 5-speed - SOLD 2001.5 Audi A4 1.8t Quattro http://www.cgimotorsports.com/test/sig.jpg |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Yaozer *n *he A*k
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston
Posts: 307
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I believe I've only seen slotted rotors w/ cuts all the way thru on sport bikes, but not on cars. It would probably weaken the integrity of the rotor if it did have slots cut thru it. Like legendary said, probably won't get that much buildup of hot gases anyways with crossdrilled and indented slots already.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Shingle Springs, CA (Near Sac)
Posts: 160
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Great, thanks for the help guys...just wanted to check before I started installing them.
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-Inferno http://www.logicis.net/300zx/300zxsig.jpg 92 300ZX TT JWT ECU JWT Intake Test pipes with high flow cats Sebring catback Short Throw shifter Jspec Taillights Stillen GTZR2 front fascia BBS RGII 18x10 rear 18x8.5 front 94 L Sedan - DEAD |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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0000$$$$0000####0000
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#7 (permalink) | |
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-!*h*nk Hard!-
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Middletown, NJ - Irvine, CA
Posts: 1,048
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Yes, ChrisK is right. Like I mentioned in another thread (Rotors Help), the quality of a X-Drilled/Slotted rotor is dependent on the 3rd-Party Manufacturer who does the X-drilled and/or slotting of the rotor. As a guess, I would suspect his last few sets of X-Drilled/Slotted Rotors have been no good and thus have had a few complaints.
I have around 15K miles on mine and they have yet to crack. I still have 60% left on my pads using those same rotors (for those that have questions about x-drilled rotors cutting up the pads). Just for comparison reasons, my OEM rotors would warp in about 2 months, and I've had mine for 8 months, and they have yet to warp. Quote:
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| rick | -- Ex-Legend owner by force -- My Clear By Day, Legal By Night was lost on March 14, 2003. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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-!*h*nk Hard!-
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Middletown, NJ - Irvine, CA
Posts: 1,048
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Quote:
The Front Rotors alone cost me $125/pair. Silver-Cadnium Plated Rotors. The Rear Rotors (if he still had'em available for X-Drilled/Slotted) would've been $100/pair. The semi-metallic pads from him are made by PBR (same company as Axxis) for $35/pair for either front or rear. The new dimpled/slotted rotors he sells is a lot less, at a cost of $60/pair for the rears in the GroupBuyCenter.com GroupBuy and around $70/paid for the fronts. I am not sure of the effectiveness of the dimpled versions, but for my rears, it's ok, simply because 70% of the braking is done in the front, so that's what counts the most to me!
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| rick | -- Ex-Legend owner by force -- My Clear By Day, Legal By Night was lost on March 14, 2003. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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-!*h*nk Hard!-
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Middletown, NJ - Irvine, CA
Posts: 1,048
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Oh I meant the make/model of the car. The make/model of the car will get you the right rotors. So, asking Mr. Wood for a set of 94 Legend L Coupe rotors and you having a 91 (just an example) Sedan is going to do you no good, since you got to have the ones that match your car.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Old S*hool Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Toronto, Ontario Canada
Posts: 2,251
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speaking of which, my buddy just sold his 91L coupe (bought a 01 bmw 328CI) and he still has a set of vented slotted rotors. Would they fit my 91 L sedan or no??
In more general terms, what G2 Legends can swap rotors?? |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Sleek And Low
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+++Yellow Ducati 996+++ +++1971 Scout II+++ +++2001 BMW 750iL Sport+++ +++1986 BMW 325+++ |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
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Hmmm, I just bought my rotors from Wood thinking that they were cross drilled
. I have heard good things about his cross drilled ones before and haven't heard anything about them breaking so I wouldn't have minded if he took the risk by drilling all the way through. Anyways, I'm sure that they'll be way better than what I have. I just have to find some Dot5.1 fluid now. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Shingle Springs, CA (Near Sac)
Posts: 160
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Well, got all my rotors installed...Have yet to try them out because I just finished at 10:30pm tonight (got a late start).
I wont be able to perform the seasoning process for a few days from the looks of the tutorial...need to break them in with some normal driving... Now all I have to do i clean my ugly ass calipers and give them several coats of this 1200° "Cast Iron Black" color paint I picked up... Then, and only then will the setup look clean.
__________________
-Inferno http://www.logicis.net/300zx/300zxsig.jpg 92 300ZX TT JWT ECU JWT Intake Test pipes with high flow cats Sebring catback Short Throw shifter Jspec Taillights Stillen GTZR2 front fascia BBS RGII 18x10 rear 18x8.5 front 94 L Sedan - DEAD |
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