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| Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)
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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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New To Legend, Please Help!
Good day, everyone.
I'm new to these forums, and I really like the advice that everyone has to offer here. I'm also new to the Legend, and was hoping that someone could help me out. I just got a Canterbury Green 1993 Acura Legend L with 192,000 miles on it. A week ago, I noticed that there was smoke coming out of the engine. Opening the hood, I find antifreezing flooding all over the place! It looked like there was a small hole coming from one of the hoses connecting the radiator to the engine. My dad and I cut that hose and re-fit it, but a day later antifreeze starts to leak again. There was a hole coming from one of the hoses on the bottom of the car, so we replace that too. The next day, a leak happens from somewhere else! This was all happening after we replaced the OEM radiator for some other one (probably cheap; I guess that may have not been a good idea). Was this all because of the radiator swap? Sorry for the long post, but I am really new at this. Thanks! |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Assman
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 1,181
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I concur.
__________________
I'm Parting out TWO Black/Black Sedans. MANY MANY Parts available. PM me. Sold MY 94' GS: http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...legend-129270/ 94' Acura Legend GS -158k Miles, Timing Belt DONE, Head Gasket: DONE, Tail Light Red-Out: DONE, Tint (35%): DONE, Viper Remote Start/Keyless Entry DONE Progress Thread |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Spiral descent
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
Posts: 4,795
Car 1: KA2 Olympia White over Savanna Gray Metallic 5-spd conversion L Car 2: KA7_8 SWP 6-speed Car 3: 1996 A6 iTrader: (7)
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The hoses probably needed to be changed anyway.
When you did the swap, either the hoses weren't retightened well enough, or more likely the hoses are just old and won't seal very well anymore. They sealed well on the OEM radiator because they've probably been there since new. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Thank you for all of your kind replies; this forum is already of much help.
Is there any way to detect which hoses are in need of replacement; or must I drive the car and find the defective hoses "the hard way?" So far, I have been doing test drives with the car in all sort of situations that would cause lots of coolant activity, and I'm not sure if this is the best way to do it. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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B**k F***er
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Lebanon, NJ
Posts: 2,633
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There are only two main hoses that carry all the pressure. The upper and lower hoses. You can replace both of those for <$30 in parts. However, make certain you bleed the system. Do a quick search on here for bleeding the cooling system. It is a very crucial and exact procedure to scavange all the air from the cooling system in our cars.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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RALPHS HANDS ARE CLEAN!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 10,034
Car 1: 91 LS Black window trim EDM/Hids Remus 2 1/2 cat back Headers stage 3 ecu Car 2: ,Red tails, Type 2 Car 3: 6 speed, EDM spoiler iTrader: (35)
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Quote:
+794,965,986,794,655,979,456,123,560
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DEMOCRACY IS TWO WOLVES AND A LAMB VOTING ON WHAT TO HAVE FOR LUNCH. LIBERTY IS A WELL ARMED LAMB CONTESTING THE VOTE. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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I'd shit on you for free.
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I would Just take it in and let mechanics replace all what? 24 of them. that may be a bit of a large investment, but I promise it will be worth it.
I've replaced Just the two main hoses Before and the car ran fine, but when I replaced all hoses I actually say a temperature drop by a whole bar, I checked the smaller tubes and they were full of gunk. the mechanic that replaced them said that wasnt good and was putting stress on my water pump also a word of advice, Dont use the radiator plug crap if you have a leak, yes it may fill the whole but it fills everything else... = Blockage = more heat = eventually bhg. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I bled the hell out of my system and couldnt figure out where the air was coming from after i bought this new radiator. I later found out it wasnt the air bleeding thing...... it was a missing thermosensor. So make sure u have a thermosensor/rad. switch in ur radiator( located at btm right next lwr rad. hose)cuz i bought and returned 2 radiators b4 i found out bought this thermosensor thing. 3 diff. brands of radiators and NONE of them came with thr rad. switch. had to get 1 from advance auto for $4x.xx . They usually put a dummy plastic peice in place of it.
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 4,144
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Quote:
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Eyebrows KMS Strut Bar Enkei 16" J-Lips Wings West Spoiler w/LED Clear Corner Lens Clear Bumper Lens Clear Rear Side Markers Brembo X-Drilled/Slotted Stainless Braided Brake Hoses Focus 2500 Driving Lamps Gold Pkg |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 4,144
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Quote:
__________________
Eyebrows KMS Strut Bar Enkei 16" J-Lips Wings West Spoiler w/LED Clear Corner Lens Clear Bumper Lens Clear Rear Side Markers Brembo X-Drilled/Slotted Stainless Braided Brake Hoses Focus 2500 Driving Lamps Gold Pkg |
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#14 (permalink) |
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FIXER
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 1,687
Car 1: 1992 Legend L 265k Black(sold) 1994 Legend LS 175K Green 1967 NOVA SS Bolero Red iTrader: (1)
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You may not have the correct radiator cap on the new radiator or you have a bad cap. The cap should relieve the pressure inside the system if it gets higher than 16 psi. If the cap doesn't relieve the high pressure something will blow, hose, radiator, ect...
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People are often reluctant to pay for good advice but rarely follow free advice. |
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