romak

I am posting this for a friend of mine. He has a 92 legend, not sure but I think it is a 3.2 liter v-6, anyway he has had a a few flaky issues recently. First he had a fuel system failure on the electronics side. He traced the wires and ran a jumper and that is working now. Next his brake lights where staying on and running down his battery. So He went and bought a brake pedal sensor and put it in and that worked for about 15 or 20 minutes then he tried it again and it was stuck on again. So he messed with it a bit and that is still a problem, he checked all of the relays and fuses but nothing seems to fix it.. But now he tries to start the car and it just turns over and over. So we did a compression test and each cylinder hits about 190-200 and it holds the pressure so... Then while we had the plugs out we tested to see if there was any spark and bingo... Nothing. But where to go from here? What do we check next? Is it related to the break problem or just a conscience? Any help would be appreciated. Does he need to buy a new ecu? I have exauhasted all my resources and electronics elude him for the most part.

 

Alperovich

check to see if the car is getting fuel. if its not, check the PGM-FI MAIN RELAY. check to make sure that it has power doing to it and out. If the relay is bad, it will cause no fuel/no spark. if needed i can get you testing procedures.

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~Alex

94 GS
MLS Bar; FUT rear ties; ADDCO rear sway bar; Blackend Engine Damper; EBC Yellow pads; D/S Rotors; Enkei EVO5's
Alpine HU+Speakers; 93 front bumper; Matte Black grill; Stromung axle-back 2.5 tips

rcrespo36

I was just there this past weekend. I have family there. Go with the suggestion that was provided. That will help or do a search. Lots of DIY in the search side.

Mikey851

Trust Alperovich on this one man! He knows, he knows!

And........in the extremely remote chance that the Legend your friend owns never got the Ignition Module recall (slim chance but still a possibility), that could definately cause this problem. There are many other possibilities but it is probably what Alperovich said.

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rome405

Does your check engine light stay on when all the dash lights come on? If so first culprit is Main Relay. I just had a similiar problem, and with help of Alpervich I go it fixed.

Jetdoc

A loose ground connection at the thermostat housing or fuel rail will cause a no start. I left the ground wire that connects to the thermostat housing off when changing the thermostat and it would not start until I reconnected it.

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People are often reluctant to pay for good advice but rarely follow free advice.

romak

Well he is getting fuel i forgot to include that. Also when we pulled the plugs, there was fuel on the plugs. Also I tried a search but I didn't see anything about ignition problems. I will try to search some more. And I will have him check the grounds. Thanks for the info.

knucks3man

Main Relay......lol


Tip: turn key to ON position, and LISTEN for the fuel pump to run. If you cant hear it, its your main relay.

romak

Not to be rude, but I will say this again... He is getting fuel. Fuel is not the issue.

Alperovich

if he is getting fuel, that takes the main relay out of the system, except if it was just draining what was in the system. i would still make sure that the fuel pump is being eneregized. i had the same problem, i had pressure at the filter and fuel in the injectors but the fuel pump was not turning on. it never hurts to double check. easy way to check for fuel is open the gas door, and remove the cap and after turning the key to the on position, listen for the fuel pump working for 3 sec after the key was turned you should here hissing out of the gas tank.

__________________
~Alex

94 GS
MLS Bar; FUT rear ties; ADDCO rear sway bar; Blackend Engine Damper; EBC Yellow pads; D/S Rotors; Enkei EVO5's
Alpine HU+Speakers; 93 front bumper; Matte Black grill; Stromung axle-back 2.5 tips

Mikey851

Correct ^, even though it's not as likely, the main relay can work for periods of time yet have a weak coil and disengage when you hit a slight bump etc. so it doesn't completely take it out of the equation, but the fact that you have fuel suggests that it probably isn't the problem.

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Alperovich

but that doesn't meen its not, just double check to make sure, because they do play games sometimes.

__________________
~Alex

94 GS
MLS Bar; FUT rear ties; ADDCO rear sway bar; Blackend Engine Damper; EBC Yellow pads; D/S Rotors; Enkei EVO5's
Alpine HU+Speakers; 93 front bumper; Matte Black grill; Stromung axle-back 2.5 tips

romak

Ok well thanks for the help but it ended up being the Crank position sensor. Which pleasantly enough you only have to remove the whole front of the engine to get to. Not sure what would cause it to literally burn up but it did. We thought it was oil but then closer inspection yeilded an electrical burned smell and soot . While we were at it we went ahead and replaced the ECU. Very strange..

Alperovich

hmm weird, those sensors don't go bad often, i wonder that the exact cause was. the sensors do have a coating that melts but doesn't effect the oparotion of the sensors.

__________________
~Alex

94 GS
MLS Bar; FUT rear ties; ADDCO rear sway bar; Blackend Engine Damper; EBC Yellow pads; D/S Rotors; Enkei EVO5's
Alpine HU+Speakers; 93 front bumper; Matte Black grill; Stromung axle-back 2.5 tips

romak

I'm interested to see if it burns up again. well not really interested. I hope it doesn't because it wasn't fun.