OEM Foglights 94/95 Sedan - Page 2

theGodfather · 11-23-04, 03:20 PM

Hello Pasha,

I apologize for not evern getting back to you on this. I have not logged into the forums since you last heard from me (many things hapenned and was not able to come here) but I recently got a call from Octane to see that I"m still alive and he mentioned you too.. LOL. I told him that my first business would be to get back to you. I'm going to rip my lower dashboard down on wednesday and see what I did and tell you what to fix.

This time I will :p

theGodfather · 11-23-04, 04:00 PM

OK... I studied the diagram and mentaly went through the entire process and recall what i did!!

If you would recall my ORIGINAL stap written as follows:

Quote:

2) Locate the fog light relay which should be connected with a 4 pin connector. Remove this 4 pin connector. YOu will see on the connector that there is a White wire going into the connector, and another white wire bridging two pins together. Cut the white wire that is bridging the two pins. Strip the part that goes into its own individual pin. Find a good "accessory" source of power and run a wire to that white wire from it. Elec tape them.

The mistake was made in me interpreting the misleading diagram wrong. The way this step SHOULD read is:

2) Locate the fog light relay which should be connected with a 4 pin connector. Remove this 4 pin connector. YOu will see on the connector that there is a White wire going into the connector, and another white wire bridging two pins together. Cut the electrical tape up the wiring harness to expose at least 3 - 4" of the white wire that is coming from the battery power source. Cut this white wire such that at least 1 - 2" of white wire is sticking out of the connector and 1 - 2" on the wire harness coming from the battery. Cut the white wire that is bridging the two pins. Strip the part that goes into its own individual pin and strip one of the 2 white wires sticking out of the other pin. Connect the white wire coming from the battery to the white wire that is alone connecting to the pin on the connector.
Find a good "accessory" source of power and run a wire to the 1 of the 2 white wires you strip which both go to the one pin in the connector. Elec tape all bare wires.

Basicaly I had reversed pins on the connector where the white wires connect to. I had the 12V accessory POWERING the foglights while the 12V battery was powering the switch. This explains why you are able to "click" the relay while the car is off and why the foglights after a long time have stopped working as the current draw from the accessory is WAY TOO MUCH as the accessory does not have the proper current to power the foglights, therefore heating up the wire harness like mad cuasing the wires to melt and stop being conductive.

This should make things work perfectly as it has been working good for me now.

If you need clarification, please let me know and tell me which part you need more details on. I'll try and edit my original post with my revised STEP 2.

theGodfather · 11-23-04, 04:14 PM

OK.. This illustration should help clarify it a bit more.

It's a look at the harness and connector that has the white wires and how you should configure it.

pasha95GS · 12-02-04, 01:59 AM

Godfather!!!!!!! You have no idea how thrilled I am to hear from you!! A shout out to Octane for helping me get in touch with you. Thanks Octane!! Well, I was going to wait and try out your directions before I wrote back but I thought I'd write in because I won't have a chance to do this until the weekend.

Your directions make complete sense to me although I do have one concern. You say that previous method of wiring was "heating up the wire harness like mad cuasing the wires to melt and stop being conductive" --- so, since my lights went out after a while, this means that I have melted some of my wiring harness eh? This would be a cause for concern because I might have to replace some wires I guess?? Can you tell me what I need to do here? Keep in mind that I have not yet attempted you fix yet.

Hope to hear from you soon.

Thanks again!
Pasha.

Quote:

Originally Posted by theGodfather

OK... I studied the diagram and mentaly went through the entire process and recall what i did!!

If you would recall my ORIGINAL stap written as follows:

The mistake was made in me interpreting the misleading diagram wrong. The way this step SHOULD read is:

2) Locate the fog light relay which should be connected with a 4 pin connector. Remove this 4 pin connector. YOu will see on the connector that there is a White wire going into the connector, and another white wire bridging two pins together. Cut the electrical tape up the wiring harness to expose at least 3 - 4" of the white wire that is coming from the battery power source. Cut this white wire such that at least 1 - 2" of white wire is sticking out of the connector and 1 - 2" on the wire harness coming from the battery. Cut the white wire that is bridging the two pins. Strip the part that goes into its own individual pin and strip one of the 2 white wires sticking out of the other pin. Connect the white wire coming from the battery to the white wire that is alone connecting to the pin on the connector.
Find a good "accessory" source of power and run a wire to the 1 of the 2 white wires you strip which both go to the one pin in the connector. Elec tape all bare wires.

Basicaly I had reversed pins on the connector where the white wires connect to. I had the 12V accessory POWERING the foglights while the 12V battery was powering the switch. This explains why you are able to "click" the relay while the car is off and why the foglights after a long time have stopped working as the current draw from the accessory is WAY TOO MUCH as the accessory does not have the proper current to power the foglights, therefore heating up the wire harness like mad cuasing the wires to melt and stop being conductive.

This should make things work perfectly as it has been working good for me now.

If you need clarification, please let me know and tell me which part you need more details on. I'll try and edit my original post with my revised STEP 2.

theGodfather · 12-02-04, 07:12 AM

Pasha,

My foglights stopped working also which is what instigated my investigation. There will be no damage to your wiring harness from this. The only thing I noticed (which stopped the lights from working) is where I connected the white wire (twisted the two bare wires together), the metal of the exposed wire looked tarnished and sorta burnt with a powder substance around it which prevented proper electrical contact between the two wires.

What I would do is cut the wires a little further up (cut off the burnt dull parts) to get some fresh looking wire and connect them correctly as I specified in my previous post. That's all I did and everything working nicely!

This time I even soldered the wires for perfect connection.

Good luck with it.

pasha95GS · 06-13-05, 12:49 PM

Godfather, I was waiting for it to get warmer and I finally got around to working on your fix for the foglights but my fogs are still not working. I followed your directions exactly and still nothing.... I'm so frustrated now. Any clues? Did you have to do anything else besides rewiring them? You said you saw that the wire was somewhat tarnished / burned but I did not see this problem at all. If you have any ideas, can you please help?

Pasha.

Alperovich · 04-07-06, 12:44 PM

i decided to update you in this post not to whore up the caravan thread. i'll take a look at it at the meet, whenever we have some free time. it almost sounds like maybe a melted wires. that should be easy to find with a DMM (digital multimeter), it will show if the wires has a short or open in it, or if its melted to the point were it can't pass enough currect thru to light the lights. but i'll check it out.

pasha95GS · 04-11-06, 01:41 AM

Alperovich, thanks buddy. I'll try and see if I can get them working. I'm planning on getting a new wire harness because I'm also suspecting melted wires. The relay seems to be working fine as it is still clicking when I push the switch on/off. Do you have a DMM? Thanks for offering to help. BTW, when I get the new wiring harness, do you know a way to modify it to run the fogs independantly without having the same problem of melted wires? It's an OEM harness and you know how you can only turn on fogs when headlights are on which really sucks. I see you have JDM fogs so I'm not sure how much different the procedure is.

Thanks again!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alperovich

i decided to update you in this post not to whore up the caravan thread. i'll take a look at it at the meet, whenever we have some free time. it almost sounds like maybe a melted wires. that should be easy to find with a DMM (digital multimeter), it will show if the wires has a short or open in it, or if its melted to the point were it can't pass enough currect thru to light the lights. but i'll check it out.

Alperovich · 04-11-06, 01:55 AM

yeah i do have jdm fogs but my car had dealer installed fog since the day it was bought. which are different from the 94/95

11-23-04, 03:20 PM	#16 (permalink)
theGodfather "the Don" Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Toronto, ON, CANADA Posts: 1,002 Car 1: 1995 Carbon Black Metallic 6-Speed Coupe iTrader: (2)	Hello Pasha, I apologize for not evern getting back to you on this. I have not logged into the forums since you last heard from me (many things hapenned and was not able to come here) but I recently got a call from Octane to see that I"m still alive and he mentioned you too.. LOL. I told him that my first business would be to get back to you. I'm going to rip my lower dashboard down on wednesday and see what I did and tell you what to fix. This time I will :p __________________ 1995 Legend Coupe 6-speed Carbon Black Metallic 208 WHP @ 6250 RPM 189 FT/LB @ 5250 RPM MUSTANG Dyno 260,000mi and counting WeaponR Secret Weapon Intake - Cold Air Box - Custom 2.5" stainless exhaust system - Remus Rev3 Universal muffler -SPEC Stage II clutch - 5speed flywheel - SR5GUY Chip - APEXi S-AFC - Pullies - MLS copy strut bar - Short Shifter -18" ICON W65 Wheels - KONI reds/Ground Controls - Slotted Brembo Rotors - SS Brake lines - Walbro 255 -ICE

11-23-04, 04:14 PM	#18 (permalink)
theGodfather "the Don" Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Toronto, ON, CANADA Posts: 1,002 Car 1: 1995 Carbon Black Metallic 6-Speed Coupe iTrader: (2)	OK.. This illustration should help clarify it a bit more. It's a look at the harness and connector that has the white wires and how you should configure it. __________________ 1995 Legend Coupe 6-speed Carbon Black Metallic 208 WHP @ 6250 RPM 189 FT/LB @ 5250 RPM MUSTANG Dyno 260,000mi and counting WeaponR Secret Weapon Intake - Cold Air Box - Custom 2.5" stainless exhaust system - Remus Rev3 Universal muffler -SPEC Stage II clutch - 5speed flywheel - SR5GUY Chip - APEXi S-AFC - Pullies - MLS copy strut bar - Short Shifter -18" ICON W65 Wheels - KONI reds/Ground Controls - Slotted Brembo Rotors - SS Brake lines - Walbro 255 -ICE

12-02-04, 07:12 AM	#20 (permalink)
theGodfather "the Don" Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Toronto, ON, CANADA Posts: 1,002 Car 1: 1995 Carbon Black Metallic 6-Speed Coupe iTrader: (2)	Pasha, My foglights stopped working also which is what instigated my investigation. There will be no damage to your wiring harness from this. The only thing I noticed (which stopped the lights from working) is where I connected the white wire (twisted the two bare wires together), the metal of the exposed wire looked tarnished and sorta burnt with a powder substance around it which prevented proper electrical contact between the two wires. What I would do is cut the wires a little further up (cut off the burnt dull parts) to get some fresh looking wire and connect them correctly as I specified in my previous post. That's all I did and everything working nicely! This time I even soldered the wires for perfect connection. Good luck with it. __________________ 1995 Legend Coupe 6-speed Carbon Black Metallic 208 WHP @ 6250 RPM 189 FT/LB @ 5250 RPM MUSTANG Dyno 260,000mi and counting WeaponR Secret Weapon Intake - Cold Air Box - Custom 2.5" stainless exhaust system - Remus Rev3 Universal muffler -SPEC Stage II clutch - 5speed flywheel - SR5GUY Chip - APEXi S-AFC - Pullies - MLS copy strut bar - Short Shifter -18" ICON W65 Wheels - KONI reds/Ground Controls - Slotted Brembo Rotors - SS Brake lines - Walbro 255 -ICE

06-13-05, 12:49 PM	#21 (permalink)
pasha95GS Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 662 Car 1: 1995 GS Sedan iTrader: (0)	Still no lights....... Godfather, I was waiting for it to get warmer and I finally got around to working on your fix for the foglights but my fogs are still not working. I followed your directions exactly and still nothing.... I'm so frustrated now. Any clues? Did you have to do anything else besides rewiring them? You said you saw that the wire was somewhat tarnished / burned but I did not see this problem at all. If you have any ideas, can you please help? Pasha.

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