Im still having this problem. I think its the actual part of the ignition switch where the key goes, not the whole switch itself. I will turn the key my car will crank, begin to turnover then nothing. Dash goes black and thats it. Then itll come back to normal. Will do this anywhere from a couple minutes up to 10 15 mins to get it started. I think i feel some sort of sticking in the key hole. Any ideas ? if i get a new lock cylinder that means i have to get new door locks and trunk lock too ?
Car 1: 91 Alpha/Alpha Touring KA7
Car 2: 92 Alpha/ AlphaT KA8
Car 3: 91L,93LS,94LS KA7's
iTrader Score: 39 reviews
I'm sure it the switch not the tumblers itself. There's 2 screws holding it on and it plugs into the fuse box.
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Yes im back! Alpha/AlphaTouring!http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...ang%2Fjdm-kang
Originally Posted by Blackend
Good to meet you too Willie. I tell ya, when we were walking the Auto-X course and you guys started pulling in, I had no idea who it was until I saw the green machine and we're all like "ooohhhh, that's Willie and the Acuraholicks!"
Glad you guys made it out, and nice meeting all of you.
Car 1: 91L 5spd blue cpe
Car 2: 92LS 5spd gray cpe
Car 3: 93LS 6spd gray cpe
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
This is the "switch, steering" referred to above. Cost about $56.00 plus shipping from Acura of Augusta, if you decide to buy one. Mine is for a '91L coupe.
My switch worked; but the retaining screws were broken, and the switch
had gradually disconnected/separated from the lock out body. Symptoms
went from intermittent no start to no start when the switch completely
separated. Removing the lower dash made the problem visible.
Service manual page: view of switch is from firewall side, looking toward driver. http://www.atfinley.com/service/inde...&z=2690&r=0934
i put a little bit of wd 40 in the key hole last night (not too much) and today has been starting with no issues... Would you still say its the switch ?
Car 1: 91L 5spd blue cpe
Car 2: 92LS 5spd gray cpe
Car 3: 93LS 6spd gray cpe
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Teejc18,
It is encouraging; time will tell. Please keep in mind that Kang knows
much more than I do. Inspecting the electrical switch involves testing
the 7 pin plug for continuity with multi-testor; and visually/manually
checking the switch to see if it is tightly connected, and contacts are
bright and clean. (Mine had broken screws that allowed movement of the
switch, thus producing seemingly random start issues.)
If your key seems worn, you can have Acura or Honda dealer make new
key(s) from the VIN ($4-$5; not a copy of the old key.) The Tumblers may be worn
or sticking and perhaps that is why the WD-40 or graphite worked. Some
posters say it solved their issues long term. Others have cleaned the solder
joints for postions 0123, and reported success.
Bottom line: if reliability is not a high priority, wait and see. If you need
reliable starts for school or work, then test/check the electrical switch.
Dropping the lower dash is easy once you know where the three 8 mm screws
are, and how to get to them. tools involve a thin blade, Phillips Screw driver,
8 mm hex socket and extension/wrench. Time involved is 1/2 hour or less first
time. Installation is reverse and takes another 1/2 hour. One or two hours
with simple tools.The forum can help if you have questions. That's all I can offer.
I guess an auto electric shop might charge about $300.00 to resolve your issue.
GL (sorry about long post.)
Never put WD-40 in the ignition switch. Over time it will get gummy and cause more issues. The right stuff to use is dry graphite powder. They have a liquid that turns to powder or the powder.
Teejc18,
It is encouraging; time will tell. Please keep in mind that Kang knows
much more than I do. Inspecting the electrical switch involves testing
the 7 pin plug for continuity with multi-testor; and visually/manually
checking the switch to see if it is tightly connected, and contacts are
bright and clean. (Mine had broken screws that allowed movement of the
switch, thus producing seemingly random start issues.)
If your key seems worn, you can have Acura or Honda dealer make new
key(s) from the VIN ($4-$5; not a copy of the old key.) The Tumblers may be worn
or sticking and perhaps that is why the WD-40 or graphite worked. Some
posters say it solved their issues long term. Others have cleaned the solder
joints for postions 0123, and reported success.
Bottom line: if reliability is not a high priority, wait and see. If you need
reliable starts for school or work, then test/check the electrical switch.
Dropping the lower dash is easy once you know where the three 8 mm screws
are, and how to get to them. tools involve a thin blade, Phillips Screw driver,
8 mm hex socket and extension/wrench. Time involved is 1/2 hour or less first
time. Installation is reverse and takes another 1/2 hour. One or two hours
with simple tools.The forum can help if you have questions. That's all I can offer.
I guess an auto electric shop might charge about $300.00 to resolve your issue.
GL (sorry about long post.)
Yes the other day i had the lower dash off but my continuity tester was broken -__- got a new one but havent tested it yet. Yeah we will see in time, so far its been doing great.
Never put WD-40 in the ignition switch. Over time it will get gummy and cause more issues. The right stuff to use is dry graphite powder. They have a liquid that turns to powder or the powder.
I figured there was some downside to it, i only put a bit in, but ill be sure to get the graphite powder instead. Thanks for the info, will definitely help
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