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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 11-26-04, 08:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Starting Problem when its cold

WHen I purchased my Legend 94 it was about 102k now its 121k miles. I never had a problem with starting up the car. Now its struggling and taking for ever to start up.

It was 1 week and 4 days ago.

THis first happened when i was at work. I stayed late to do some OT, and when i came out to start up my car, all you can hear is the starter or what ever clicking trying to startup.

For a fact it is not the battery. Its fully charged, replaced the battery a few months ago.

So a co-worker came down and told me to turn off the ignition and pull out the key, then re-insert it, step on the gas pedal all the way down, and try starting up again. We tried that serveral times, then atlast it started up.

I took note, that when car is warm started up or after driving a while, there is no problem starting it up an hour or so later. But when night fall comes, or it gets really cold, or overnight waking up next morning to go to work, thats when this whole issue starts again.

I read a thread here, about spark plugs. Could it be the spark plugs?
I thought about doing a tune up on the car since i have never done any real maitenance to the car.

All i have done was the air filter, and oil change. and replaced the brake master cylinder to a new one.

IF this could be DIY to fix the issus pelase help me out

THe next thing i'll be doing is taking it to 3 DIfferen't shops, to have each of there opinions on the situation. and see what is the real problem.

They'll probably charge $20 each for an inspection though.



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Old 11-27-04, 03:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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clicking starter normally means it not getting enough current... check the cell water levels (in the battery)to make sure the plates are covered.. just because its a new battery doesnt mean its not stuffed.. also check all your starter/battery connections are tight.. a good way to check for a stuffed battery is to undo all the cell plugs when its cold(or disconnect the igntion) and while someone else is cranking it look in each of the cells, if you see bubbles its stuffed..
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Old 11-27-04, 12:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Cool

Ok, How do i check the cell water levels to make sure the plate are covered?
Whats plates? I'm sorry, I am not a very good person with this. so please bare with me.....

WHere is the starter / battery connections? how do i make sure they are tight?

What are cell plugs, and where are they located at? is it easier to disconnect the ignition or the cell plugs? if so how do i go about this?

If you could please help me with this it would be SO great of you. Thanks again for your help. I really appreciate it.!
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Old 11-27-04, 09:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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lol.. to check conections you have to trace the power cable from bat to starter and make sure that the bolts/nuts are tight at the conection points.. for water checking there should be a row of six caps/plugs
undo those and check water level height.. if you have a clear/opaque battery case you should be able to check the levels from the out side.. it should show a minimum/maximum level..
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Old 11-28-04, 07:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thumbs down

Ok, I'll see if i can do that. Thanks alot.

Hey also, i gave an acura legend dealership a call for a tuneup, a major service for the maitenance light indicating RED

THe service department said $582.00

Thats for replacing spark plugs
Draining all fluids : Brake, Steering, oil, transmission, radiator coolant, windshield water, Resevior,
Replacing Fuel Filter, air filter. rotating tires, and inspecting brakes


WOW! just kill me!
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Old 11-28-04, 03:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You are going to get really taken to the cleaners if you go to the dealer for service. The maintenance "light" is not a light, it is just a mileage reminder mechanical meter to let you know when oil change is due...you have to keep track of the other maintenance items in your own mileage log to see when to do them. Plugs are done every 60K miles, the timing belt every 90K, the radiator coolant changed every couple of years, etc. Look in the owners manual for the exact service requirements...don't let the dealer give you a different line, because they will have you paying for the air you breathe!
As for your starting problem, your battery is weak, maybe bad....if it clicks it doesn't have enough current to start the car....when the car is warm it is a lot easier to start, because the engine is well lubed and not as hard to turn over. Have your battery tested at any auto parts store, they will do it for free....it should still be in warranty from whomever you bought it....doesn't matter if the lights etc all work, they hardly take any current to run, but that starter sure does.
You should take a course or read some books on auto maintenance, it will be interesting for you and WELL worth the time and expense.
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Old 11-28-04, 11:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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As already mentioned if the battery is new yet fails to hold a charge, the problem is either in the connections or the alternator (charging circuit). It could also be due to a battery drain condition; some other circuit drawing power when it is supposed to be off (ex. glove box lamp, trunk lamp). A bad alt diode can also create a battery drain.
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Old 11-29-04, 02:30 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phan_nam420

So a co-worker came down and told me to turn off the ignition and pull out the key, then re-insert it, step on the gas pedal all the way down, and try starting up again. We tried that serveral times, then atlast it started up.

I took note, that when car is warm started up or after driving a while, there is no problem starting it up an hour or so later. But when night fall comes, or it gets really cold, or overnight waking up next morning to go to work, thats when this whole issue starts again.
Hi,

I have a similar problem with my Celica that I used to owned.
The problem was found to be two cylinders of the 4 have low compression.
Do you see blue smoke coming out of the tail pipe or the engine oil getting dark very quickly ?
I also noticed that lower octane (87 instead of 93 or so) helped my car
to start in the winter (Cold New England weather).

Good luck.
-Tat
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Old 11-29-04, 02:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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lowering the octane would help (try 89) but when it's hot again, ECU will retard timing and u might feel a decrease in power.



Even though the battery is new, the weather affects it greatly. The battery does not always have the same cranking current at all temperature. I know in the morning, my car is a bit harder to start. Usually I have to wait 1 second for it to load up, while during the day, maybe half a second.


also..when turning on your engine, don't full throttle it..it's not good. slightly throttling it would be a better idea. Likewise, most fuel injection equiped cars are not suppose to rev high and then then the ignition on. It's only advise to rev it a bit if you're having trouble starting your car in extreme climates.
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Old 11-29-04, 02:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Cool

About the octane I started using (87) when gas prices raised. And now that you mentioned the weather conditions. I will start to use the (89) or (93) ???

I do run a system of 2 subs and 1 amp. I'm not sure if they are draining the battery power. I mean, they kick when car is on, when its off, its completely off i am sure of that. The system is only about approx 1000 watts (amp)
HOw would i test the alternator? to be sure its doing its job?
I will take the battery to kragen and have them tested it.
Nothing in the vehicle is on, such as light bulbs, dome lights, trunk light. nothing. All of , well Besides my Alarm.

I did not notice any BLUE smoke. maybe white , steam i guess because the air is cold. But i do not see any odd smoke coming out of the exhaust tip.
The Oil i will have to check daily to be sure that its changing to a darker black.

Anyone in the area would like to stop by and take a look and have some beer?


What I will be doing is leave my car overnight this coming friday at Firestone, and Saturday Morning have them push the car in and try starting it so they can see what the problem is. I have a friend that works in there and hopefullly he won't charge for the inspection.

I also plan on doing my own "tune up" If you guys can help me out it would SO WONDERFUL!!!!

My plans :
Replacing spark plugs ( Dont even know which brand / model to buy )
Replacing Fuel Filter ( Dont even know where to buy, and how to remove old one )
Drain and Re-fill :
Transmission fluid (where is it located at and which type of fluid do i use )
Master brake Cylinder is fine
Steering fluid (how to drain and refill)

I hope to do this before 130,000 Miles.

THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE!
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Old 11-29-04, 02:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Question

Here is a quick pix of the FIre STone "Tune Up" is this needed at all for my car with 122,000 Miles? Previous owner sold it to me at 102,422 miles, I am unaware of his previous maitenence and it has been 2 years already since i own this.










I'm curious about the Vehicle NOtes :
"some Acura models are equipped with Uni-Directional wheels. Before Mounting and rotating tires, check owner's manual."

I am Sorry but --> ??????

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Old 11-29-04, 03:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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try using 89 instead of 87. 87 might be too low so the ignition will be retarded giving u a bit of a hesitation when starting.


the system could be draining your battery.
to test the battery and alternator, get a multimeter (preferrably digital). to test ur battery, turn off ur car and let the + and - of the multimeter touch ur battery (corresponding to the + and -. u should get a reading. now take it out and turn on your car..then u go and do the same,
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Old 11-29-04, 05:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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MultiMeter Sounds Great. WHere could i get one?
home depot? Radio shack?

I'll start pumping 89 from now on. Awesome Thanks alot.
I'll keep you guys updated on how things go.
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Old 11-29-04, 07:13 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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the 89 octane is just a suggestion. it's not a definite solution. might work, might now, but since you're there, might as well spend the extra buck or so.


the DMM u can get at walmart, home depot, etc
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Old 12-01-04, 03:27 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Cool

I tried this one suggestion that you generous people have been posting
(THANK YOU)

ONe late night, i went to my car, turned the ignition, to the 2nd one. and left it there for like 1 minute - 2 mintues, then after turned it up to start.

It started up. it seemed like to struggle but it started up! wow.

So i let it warm up before i drive.


Also there is smoke coming out. but its hard to tell whether its natural because of the weather conditions, or the reason its white because there is a problem. I am a semi-color blind. Its looks like white / purple / blue sometimes. it varies.. I wish i could tell.
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