the gold version

not good ....anyone ...please

the gold version

what about some clr cleaner ..Calcium,Lime,Rust

Quaraxkad

I believe CLR will remove rust stains, but not rust itself without scraping it off manually. Google will give you a number of suggestions, here's one: cleaning rust off cylinder walls

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1994 Acura Legend LS


1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme S coupe

the gold version

C.L.R warm water and a MAGIC eraser

....

the gold version

is this good enough ? i cant get those stains out

Quaraxkad

Are the walls still smooth? If the rust pitted the metal too much you could have issues. I would coat the walls with a little bit of oil so it doesn't start rusting again before you get it back together.

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1994 Acura Legend LS


1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme S coupe

the gold version

what about the block ? do i need to clean it more ? can i use a wire brush that connects on my drill . i did a spot of it and it cleaned it real good. but is it gonna leak?

Quaraxkad

I used a Dremel with a very soft metal brush, I wouldn't use any kind of wire brush that connects to a drill, they're too abrasive. Every method of cleaning the block has its own downsides, and for every different method there's someone who claims it's flat-out wrong. You do want to make it as smooth and flat as possible, but you also don't want to add new gouges or scratches, especially on the rings around the pistons.

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1994 Acura Legend LS


1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme S coupe

the gold version

i cant seem to find a soft metal brush, ok so dont use the wire brush ...........those stains are stubborn as hell

javaco888

i used a somewhat abrasive polishing pad that attached to my drill... not like sandpaper, but kinda like the back of a dish sponge... i didn't hold it it one spot for long... i don't think that it was abrasive enough to resurface the engine block, but you never know... and always kept it flat on the surface... it came with a couple different levels... i used the softest one... i got them at a local autoparts store...

kind of like this:
STANDARD ABRASIVE
METAL POLISHING from Aircraft Spruce

not sure if it was bad for it, but my car is running fine... and it cleaned it up pretty good...

EDIT: Here we go... this is what i used... the least abrasive one.... gotta have steady hand tho, to keep that drill from running off.....i didn't use them around the rings either.... just used a metal brush for around there...
SCOTCH-BRITE ROLOC TR SURFACE CONDITIONING DISC from Aircraft Spruce

those felt ones previously mentioned might work also... prob less abrasive then the ones i used...

+1 on what quaraxkad said about putting oil on those cylinder walls...

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the gold version

cool i will stop at pep boys tomorrow after work ..................and thanks everyone for your help

the gold version

i set the timing marks on the passenger side then i tighten down the rocker assembly then i went to tighten the sprocket to 23pounds and the sprocket moved out of timing ..i didint turn back . what do i do ???????????

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Quaraxkad

Just turn it back to line up the marks. It's best to avoid turning the camshafts independently of the crankshaft, but you're probably fine. Use a chain wrench to hold the pulley when tightening the bolts, but wrap the pulley in something so the chain doesn't gouge the metal or it will destroy your timing belt. After you put the timing belt back on you can double check your torque without worrying about the pulley spinning.

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1994 Acura Legend LS


1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme S coupe

the gold version

oh!! ok,,,,so as long as i dont turn it from the crank shaft i wont bend a valve but if i turn it from the cam sprocket ill be ok? should i turn it all the way around or turn it once to the left to line up the marks ?

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javaco888

i've been told to turn clock-wise only... the same way that the cam would be turning, if the car were on....

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