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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 12-04-08, 08:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Timing Belt Replacement

I thought this would help some of you guys needing to change out a timing belt on our cars. If you need any more info on any other things i can post other illustrations of other repairs...Hope this helps
thanks
mike




Timing Belt / Illustrated Index

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Removal

CAUTION: Inspect the water pump when replacing the timing belt.

NOTE:

* Turn the crankshaft so that the No.1 piston is at top dead center.
* Before removing the timing belt, mark direction of rotation if it is to be reused.
* Anti-theft radios have a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code number before:
* Disconnecting the battery.
* Removing the No.56 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
* Removing the radio.
* After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed, enter the customer's 5-digit code to restore radio operation.

1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

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2. Remove the damper, center bracket and center mount.
3. Remove the TCS upper and lower brackets.

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4. Disconnect the TCS throttle sensor connector and TCS throttle actuator connector, then remove the TCS control valve assembly. Do not disconnect the breather pipe bypass hose.
5. Remove the wire harness covers.
6. Remove the engine wire harness.
7. Remove the oil pressure switch connector.

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8. Remove the engine ground cable.

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9. Loosen the mounting nut/bolt and adjusting rod, then remove the alternator belt.

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10. Loosen the idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the A/C compressor belt.

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11. Loosen the mounting bolt/nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the P/S pump belt.
12. Remove the upper covers.

Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Replacement
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13. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
14. Remove the A/C idler pulley.
15. Remove the dipstick pipe.
16. Remove the lower cover.
17. Loosen the timing belt adjusting bolt 180°.
18. Push the tensioner to release tension from the belt, then retighten the adjusting bolt.

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19. Remove the timing belt from the pulleys.

Installation

CAUTION:

* Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts with the timing belt removed. The pistons may hit the valves and cause damage.
* When installing the timing belt, turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise 15°past No.1 piston TDC. After adjusting the left and right camshaft pulleys to TDC, turn the crankshaft pulley counterclockwise back to TDC.
* Inspect the water pump when replacing the timing belt.

1. Install the timing belt in the reverse order of removal; Only key points are described here.
2. Remove all spark plugs.

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3. Position the crankshaft and the camshaft pulleys as shown before installing the timing belt.

1. Set the crankshaft so that the No. 1 piston is at top dead center. Align the (triangle) mark on the teeth side of the timing belt drive pulley to the pointer on the oil pump.
2. Align the TDC mark on the left camshaft pulley to the pointer on the left back cover.
3. Align the TDC mark on the right camshaft pulley to the pointer on the right back cover.

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4. Install the timing belt tightly in the sequence shown.

(1) Timing belt drive pulley (crankshaft)
(2) Adjusting pulley
(3) Left camshaft pulley
(4) Water pump pulley
(5) Right camshaft pulley.

For easy installation, advance the right camshaft pulley by about a half tooth from the TDC position.

5. Loosen the adjust bolt, and retighten it after tensioning the belt.
6. Install the tower cover and crankshaft pulley.
7. Rotate the crankshaft about 5 or 6 turns clockwise so that the belt may fit in position on the pulleys.
8. Carry out timing belt tension adjustment.

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9. Check the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft pulleys at TDC.
10. If the camshaft pulleys are not positioned at TDC, remove the timing belt and adjust the position, then reinstall the timing belt.


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11. After installation, adjust the tension of each belt.
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Old 12-04-08, 09:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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mod move to DIY please
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Old 12-05-08, 02:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Question:

Are Gen. 1's interference engines? I'm wondering if I should do my timing belt a little early or if I can breathe easy knowing my car will at least be not dead if it snaps.
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Old 12-05-08, 02:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I thought the C32A was 1991 on. Gen 1 stops at 1990, doesn't it?
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Old 12-05-08, 10:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Virtually all Honda engines are of interference type. The Lexus LS400 is a free-running engine, but today´s model isnt´t.

On the website of gates, you can find a list of some engines:
http://www.gates.com/downloads/downl...older=brochure
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Old 12-05-08, 11:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm about 500 miles away from 2nd timing belt replacement (180,000!). With winter approaching I'm wondering if I should do it now, or if it will make it until warmer days? I guess what I'm asking is does anyone know if our belts are known to break?
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Old 12-05-08, 12:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilRed92Legend View Post
I'm about 500 miles away from 2nd timing belt replacement (180,000!). With winter approaching I'm wondering if I should do it now, or if it will make it until warmer days? I guess what I'm asking is does anyone know if our belts are known to break?
It is always a gamble, but if your TB/Wp were not done that long ago (ie, say within the last 7 years) you should be fine going over by 10k miles or more. When I had mine done at A&HMotorsports they mentioned they have never seen a V6 Honda engine snap a belt. Honda 4cylinders are definitely more of a gamble pushing off the service.
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Old 12-05-08, 10:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You could remove the timing belt cover on the driver side and inspect the belt visally. Mark the belt with chalk and turn the crankshaft until you´ve seen the belt completely. Any signs for oil, small cracks in its rubber or other optical defects? With the cover removed, start the engine, rev it up in neutral and check the belt for vibration.

This check is not 100% as the belt may fail in its inner cords but at least you can see if anything is in bad condition.
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Old 12-09-08, 06:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Prices

So, Acura of Augusta wants $250 for their Timing Belt Kit, which includes timing belt, drive belts, water pump, and thermostat housing gasket. Tensioner is an extra $61.

Does this seem like a reasonable price? The kit alone is currently on ebay for $289. (Who knows if it really is OEM).

I know you can get this stuff after-market for about half the price but... For something like this I feel like OEM is the way to go... Opinions???

For the kit, the tensioner, and a shiney new button for my e-brake , we're talking $326.69 shipped. Then I have to get 2 gallons of Acura coolant from my local dealer (I'm not paying to have that shipped!). Go for it? Get after market? Let me know what you think guys!
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Old 01-04-09, 08:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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this should be moved to the DIY section!

good write up
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Old 01-15-09, 06:55 AM   #11 (permalink)
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great instruction.

could we make a list of parts are needed todo complete TB replacement?

We need:

1)timming belt
2)tensioner (are there more than one tensioner?)
3)water pump (any seals for it?)


i was searching for complete parts needed with EPC numbers but i couldn't find it

maybe it's good idea to do it here, in great TB DIY replecment, all needed parts with EPC numbers?
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Old 01-15-09, 10:43 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
great instruction.

could we make a list of parts are needed todo complete TB replacement?

We need:

1)timming belt
2)tensioner (are there more than one tensioner?)
3)water pump (any seals for it?)


i was searching for complete parts needed with EPC numbers but i couldn't find it

maybe it's good idea to do it here, in great TB DIY replecment, all needed parts with EPC numbers?

The kit you get from Acura includes: Timing Belt, 3 drive belts (alternator, power-steering, compressor), Water Pump (comes with gasket), and a gasket for the Thermostat Housing. The set of Adjusters (Tensioners) can be purchased separately and are recommended replaced every 2nd belt (or if noticeably worn). Camshaft seals can be purchased separately and are recommended replaced only if visibly leaking or deteriorated. You'll need 2 gallons of Acura Type-2 Coolant as well.

OL999-9011A - COOLANT TYPE-2
14510-PY3-003 - ADJUSTER
* PK106 91-92 LEG T-BELT
** 14400-PY3-004 BELT, TIMING
31110-PY3-A01 BELT, ALTERNATOR
38920-P5G-004 BELT, COMPRESSOR
56992-PY3-A02 BELT, P.S. PUMP
19200-PY3-010 WATER PUMP
19313-PY3-000 GASKET (thermostat housing)

*This is the # for the kit. Looks like it may differ by year/Type-1/2
**This is the # for the T-belt, again looks like it may differ, check w/your dealer!

***I highly recommended ordering through Acura of Augusta. They sell this as a kit regularly priced at $250. It is an excellent deal, even compared with Fee-bay, plus its from a trustworthy source with excellent knowledge of our cars!
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Last edited by EvilRed92Legend; 01-15-09 at 10:58 AM.
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Old 01-15-09, 02:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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wow! you havegeat nowledg about TB .

many thank;s for your info.

Could you tell me which shop(dealership) is the cheapest? What about acuraoem parts? are they expensive?
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Old 01-15-09, 02:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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UMMMM... one thing.

after installing the TB with the crank at TDC... doesn't this allow for detonation like in my car? when i did my 240's timing chain, it's clearly outspoken that you need to set the crank at a 20degree advance. this is to keep from detonating and it's just prime OEM timing. well... with the Legend, I saw nothing in the manuals about advancing the spark. so I followed the manual, thinkin it knew best, and now my car has bad detonation. it bogs down pretty bad.

so.. what do yall think is the best ATDC degree to use when timing an 88 Legend?
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Old 01-15-09, 02:53 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funabashi View Post
wow! you havegeat nowledg about TB .

many thank;s for your info.

Could you tell me which shop(dealership) is the cheapest? What about acuraoem parts? are they expensive?
You're in Europe, so shipping may get expensive, but here's your best bet:

recession pricing now in effect


P.S. It's a link, follow it.
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