D_Nyholm

Nope, they aren't the screw type. Something is frozen, just don't know if it is a caliper or a line. I've done calipers before, but never replaced a line before. I thought they were all clamped in place at the factory....

Daniel_S

Use the hydraulic pressure to force the piston out. If it was openen, bleed it first. Then push the brake pedal with full force until the piston gets out. Polish it and check for scratches. Remove the sealing rings from the brake cylinder and clean them. Use a Dremel to clean the brake caliper. Replace parts which are damaged.

Special brake grease (DOT4 compatible!) makes the assemblage much easier. It helps to prevent water from coming in, too.

A cheap, safe and effective caliper tool is a heavy-duty bar clamp. It applied pressure centrical so that the brake piston doesn´t jam.

Kenso

Sounds like a simple stuck caliper to me. If you really want to know, take the line loose from the caliper (or just open the bleeder), then try and push the piston back. If it's still stuck, you can assume it's the caliper and not the line.

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ITR 00-106
95 FZJ-80

MarcD

Sorry- I was not trying to sound like a wise-a$$. Actually, the piston should go back in easily if not frozen, etc so that tool should be more than adequate
This would be a simple enough way to tell what the issue is

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3.2legend

yea, thats a good idea.

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Rebuilt by me ITR swap in 1900 lb cx hatch...not bad!

reboticon

Its the way any shop would do it. Yes you have to bleed the brakes afterwards. That takes all of 45 seconds to do.

Have you ever taken apart an ABS unit? Have you seen how many different valves there are? Forcing that much pressure back on those valves risks destroying them. You don't have to believe me, and the legends ABS might survive just pushing the piston back in, but its not acceptable practice by ASE or any factory standards.

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Fixing legends is easier than fixing lolcats, but the parts are way more expensive

My Low Buck Non-Legend Builds
91 Civic Sedan (1.5 A/T -> 1.6vtec 5 spd)
90 DA Teg
89 Boosted CRX!

reboticon

Again, loosen the caliper bleeder. If you have a collapsed line then opening the bleeder will allow the piston to retract and confirm you have a kinked or clogged line. If the piston still wont retract with the bleeder open, then its siezed.

edit: see Kenso already covered this my bad.

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Fixing legends is easier than fixing lolcats, but the parts are way more expensive

My Low Buck Non-Legend Builds
91 Civic Sedan (1.5 A/T -> 1.6vtec 5 spd)
90 DA Teg
89 Boosted CRX!

3.2legend

wow, it sounds like overkill to me especially since ive never damaged a abs unit doing it the way i do it, but i cant argue if thats the "correct" way to do it. No i havent every taken an abs unit apart, ive never had a need to.

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Rebuilt by me ITR swap in 1900 lb cx hatch...not bad!

reboticon

well it doesnt seem like acks have problems with it really but newer GMS and Fords can be destroyed by it, i just do it on all ABS cars to be safe. It really only takes a few seconds if you used linesman pliers on the line.. You don't really push any air into the system you just push fluid out. Anyway ive seen it destroy $1200 ford abs units, but those are fords and they are junk.

__________________
Fixing legends is easier than fixing lolcats, but the parts are way more expensive

My Low Buck Non-Legend Builds
91 Civic Sedan (1.5 A/T -> 1.6vtec 5 spd)
90 DA Teg
89 Boosted CRX!

Blackend

Leave it to the Acura tech (Kenso) to lay down the wisdom!!!

Glad you're a part of the community Ken - try to stick around more often!!!

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3.2legend

Your right, Gm's and Fords are junk.

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Rebuilt by me ITR swap in 1900 lb cx hatch...not bad!

whats77inaname

Don't sweat it, I didn't take it that way *lol* It's all good in the hood