VSS replacement question

Trojan Horse · 08-08-02, 08:18 PM

So I'm trying to replace my VSS. I'm pretty sure I've got the right part (of course I'm not 100% thanks to the worthless pictures in the Haynes manual). Anyway, I've seen stuff both in books and on the Legend Tuner site that say to remove this whole assembly thing by taking out one single 10mm bolt. I removed the only 10mm bolt I saw anywhere, and indeed this whole big assembly started to twist around and stuff, but when I started to pull it out, it appeared to be leaking some kind of fluid. Is this normal? I assume it's tranny fluid (this is a 6 speed manual coupe).

As soon as I saw the fluid dripping, I shoved the whole assembly back on and replaced the 10mm bolt.

So, what's the next step? As near as I can tell, the VSS is on the end of that big assembly. I'm pretty sure it's the right one, because there are tubes coming out of it (which I'm guessing are for the power steering, right?)

So, do I remove the assembly and hope that not much fluid drains out or what?

frebay · 08-08-02, 09:50 PM

How much did you get your VSS for?

Trojan Horse · 08-08-02, 10:21 PM

Actually, I don't have one yet. I'm going to try and take mine out and clean up the contacts and stuff before I fork over any money. I haven't even bothered calling the dealer to find out how much they're gonna rape me for.

bigdad · 08-09-02, 12:17 AM

you pulled the geared shaft out of the differential, I assume...so that would be differential fluid....real smelly 90 wt. gear oil. The power steering speed sensor and VSS are attached to the end....I think the VSS is attached by a torx screw...don't think you need to remove the entire shaft assembly....

FutureX 2001 · 08-09-02, 12:21 AM

bigdad is right,
you pulled out the whole assembly, you only need to open the end of it, it will have I believe three Torx screws on it. You can pick up a T-bit at Autozone I believe.

That's where I got mine.

LPB · 08-09-02, 08:57 AM

It is differential fluid. The fluid loss will be minimal. Although many have replaced the "gut" w/o removing the entire unit, I found the uppermost phillips screw difficult to access with a possibility of stripping it. It was much easier to just remove the entire unit. The kit ($80 from Acura of Augusta) includes a new O-ring and harness retainer. This is an easy DIY repair. You only need to buy a tamper-proof T-20 torx bit.
My housing required the use of a brass drift to loosen it from the diff case. As you have already pulled yours out, this repair should take you less than 10 min. For under $100 you can perform this repair. You also need to replace the two hose clamps as well as find something (I used two old ball-point pens) to insert into the hoses to inhibit additional fluid loss.

Trojan Horse · 08-09-02, 04:43 PM

I was unable to get the hoses off without cutting them, which I wasn't willing to do. Since I couldn't get the hoses off, I couldn't pull the whole assembly out of the transaxle, so I broke down and went with the "mirror method". Basically, I removed the end cap and used the mirror to find the two phillips screws, then went by feel with a ratcheted screwdriver on a 90 degree angle. (kinda like a socket wrench, but with a screwdriver bit instead).

I took the original unit out, unplugged it, and looked at it real hard. Nothing much to it, since it's entirely sealed in plastic. I was hoping it was gunky or something, so that I could try to clean it or whatever. So, since I didn't have a new one, I just put the old one back in. Reconnected it, then drove around for an hour or so.

And it's fixed! My guess is that the connection at the wiring harness had oxidized or was loose or something. It used to be that the only time it happened was after hitting a bump at speed (like when you go onto a bridge and then come off the other side). My guess is the bump was indicating a loose connection, and it eventually just got looser and happened more often.

So, before you spend any $$$ replacing this part, at least try to remove and reseat the connector first.

08-08-02, 08:18 PM	#1 (permalink)
Trojan Horse Large Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 136 Car 1: 1995 Sherwood Green Pearl 6-Speed Coupe iTrader: (0)	VSS replacement question So I'm trying to replace my VSS. I'm pretty sure I've got the right part (of course I'm not 100% thanks to the worthless pictures in the Haynes manual). Anyway, I've seen stuff both in books and on the Legend Tuner site that say to remove this whole assembly thing by taking out one single 10mm bolt. I removed the only 10mm bolt I saw anywhere, and indeed this whole big assembly started to twist around and stuff, but when I started to pull it out, it appeared to be leaking some kind of fluid. Is this normal? I assume it's tranny fluid (this is a 6 speed manual coupe). As soon as I saw the fluid dripping, I shoved the whole assembly back on and replaced the 10mm bolt. So, what's the next step? As near as I can tell, the VSS is on the end of that big assembly. I'm pretty sure it's the right one, because there are tubes coming out of it (which I'm guessing are for the power steering, right?) So, do I remove the assembly and hope that not much fluid drains out or what? __________________ http://www.avalon.net/~drarick/sig.jpg

08-08-02, 09:50 PM	#2 (permalink)
frebay Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: West Los Angeles Posts: 274 Car 1: 94 LS Coupe 6spd iTrader: (0)	How much did you get your VSS for? __________________ 94 LS Coupe 6 speed [current] current mods: 1 piece headlights/volk III 18in future mods: dv8's CAI/A4 projectors/Trust Exhaust 93 LS Sedan - [past]

08-08-02, 10:21 PM	#3 (permalink)
Trojan Horse Large Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 136 Car 1: 1995 Sherwood Green Pearl 6-Speed Coupe iTrader: (0)	Actually, I don't have one yet. I'm going to try and take mine out and clean up the contacts and stuff before I fork over any money. I haven't even bothered calling the dealer to find out how much they're gonna rape me for. __________________ http://www.avalon.net/~drarick/sig.jpg

08-09-02, 12:21 AM	#5 (permalink)
FutureX 2001 L E G E N D Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Montebello, CA Posts: 4,575 Car 1: '95 Coupe Car 2: '94 Sedan GS Car 3: '90 Coupe iTrader: (2)	bigdad is right, you pulled out the whole assembly, you only need to open the end of it, it will have I believe three Torx screws on it. You can pick up a T-bit at Autozone I believe. That's where I got mine. __________________

08-09-02, 04:43 PM	#7 (permalink)
Trojan Horse Large Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 136 Car 1: 1995 Sherwood Green Pearl 6-Speed Coupe iTrader: (0)	I was unable to get the hoses off without cutting them, which I wasn't willing to do. Since I couldn't get the hoses off, I couldn't pull the whole assembly out of the transaxle, so I broke down and went with the "mirror method". Basically, I removed the end cap and used the mirror to find the two phillips screws, then went by feel with a ratcheted screwdriver on a 90 degree angle. (kinda like a socket wrench, but with a screwdriver bit instead). I took the original unit out, unplugged it, and looked at it real hard. Nothing much to it, since it's entirely sealed in plastic. I was hoping it was gunky or something, so that I could try to clean it or whatever. So, since I didn't have a new one, I just put the old one back in. Reconnected it, then drove around for an hour or so. And it's fixed! My guess is that the connection at the wiring harness had oxidized or was loose or something. It used to be that the only time it happened was after hitting a bump at speed (like when you go onto a bridge and then come off the other side). My guess is the bump was indicating a loose connection, and it eventually just got looser and happened more often. So, before you spend any $$$ replacing this part, at least try to remove and reseat the connector first. __________________ http://www.avalon.net/~drarick/sig.jpg

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08-09-02, 12:17 AM	#4 (permalink)
bigdad Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 1,450 iTrader: (0)	you pulled the geared shaft out of the differential, I assume...so that would be differential fluid....real smelly 90 wt. gear oil. The power steering speed sensor and VSS are attached to the end....I think the VSS is attached by a torx screw...don't think you need to remove the entire shaft assembly....

08-09-02, 08:57 AM	#6 (permalink)
LPB Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 4,144 Car 1: 1992 Seattle Silver LS CPE Car 2: 2007 Toyota Corolla Car 3: 1981 Corvette iTrader: (2)	It is differential fluid. The fluid loss will be minimal. Although many have replaced the "gut" w/o removing the entire unit, I found the uppermost phillips screw difficult to access with a possibility of stripping it. It was much easier to just remove the entire unit. The kit ($80 from Acura of Augusta) includes a new O-ring and harness retainer. This is an easy DIY repair. You only need to buy a tamper-proof T-20 torx bit. My housing required the use of a brass drift to loosen it from the diff case. As you have already pulled yours out, this repair should take you less than 10 min. For under $100 you can perform this repair. You also need to replace the two hose clamps as well as find something (I used two old ball-point pens) to insert into the hoses to inhibit additional fluid loss.

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