95typeII

I need to replace the front window motors on my coupe. Do I need to remove the entire window track or can just the motor alone be removed?

c_money14

Typically you need to remove the motor and regulator..

ari_one

+1 ^ the motor would be very difficult to get out without removing the regulator too. Check the pic below:



The bolts holding the motor on are against the door side.

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stevieray

Yeah, you have to remove the window from the regulator and then remove the entire regulator assembly from the door. Usually though, window motors don't gradually go bad, they just stop working, period. I've replaced 5-6 regulators but never a window motor.

95typeII

Thanks for the pic, ari_one.

stevieray, do you think I might just need to re-grease the regulator at all the needed joints?

stevieray

Maybe. What usually happens is that the nylon plug on the end of the regulator track gets brittle with age & breaks, allowing the rollers to come out the end of the track. All you can do is take it out and see. To test the window motor, take the plug and put 12V to it.

manxdr21

If your auto down for the drivers window does not work then you might have to replace the motor since it's built in. After 10 or 15 years a motor could def go out esp. if the regulator has had problems. I've installed both front regulators with in the last year and my pass. window rolls up alot slower then the other due to the motor. I will be replacing them soon with reman. from advanced the coupe motor was like $130 and the 4dr was like $100 each. The only difference I've seen when I inspected both types of motors was that the four dour wire is longer, more wire for less cash. Good luck

stevieray

Auto window down on the driver's side has absolutely nothing to do with the window motor. That function is contained in the master window switch. Trust me, window motors either work or they don't. Been screwing with these things too long to think otherwise.

manxdr21

Read up. On second gen the pulser is located in the motor. When the auto down is not working it's either the switch or the pulser. Again read the manual

stevieray

I stand corrected. The troubleshooting sequence in the HELM is first, master window switch and then the pulser in the motor. Thanks for setting me straight on that. I always thought it was a bad master window switch. Now, I'm curious to know how many of that particular problem is a bad pulser and NOT the switch assembly since a window motor is way cheaper than a new master switch---

manxdr21

I have been through the window switch/motor/pulser problem(still don't have auto down) that's how I knew you could find it in the manual cause I thought the same thing you did at first. I even ended up fixing the small circuit board that sends the signal to the pulser along with the relay for the switch since it went out on me once. Eventually I'll get a reman from the auto parts because I agree with you on the fact that the motors usually last pretty long so a reman should be just fine. I've just been holding out a bit cause I've been thinking of making all my windows out down and up. None of this is a big deal right now with the exception of my slow moving pass window(got to be the motor cause it has an absolutely new regulator and I've cleaned the track many times). Sorry about the thread hi-jack to the original poster

stevieray

^ Good stuff there. Auto down on all of the windows would be slick. Let me know how you do that, bro. BTW, I've always been told (and seen, like in a Nissan) that window motors just quit working---do you think ours are different in that they slowly get weaker until they can't handle the resistance of the regulator & weight of the glass? That would make sense---

95typeII

Reason why I dont think its the regular is cuz when I spray WD-40 down the front window track, the window goes up and down quickly and with no problems. Once it dries, I have to resort to giding it up by hand to close it.

Why does the regulator have to be replaced instead of just re-greased or have whatever small parts fixed or replaced? So far, I'm lead to think the regulator just isnt lubed enough, thus causing friction and slows down the motor.

manxdr21

That's what I figure, nothing lasts for ever. Constant use, humidity, over strain because of dirty tracks over the years, and bad regulators + weight of glass. Once I swap the motors I'll let you know how they feel.

About the auto up and down, all you have to do is get those units you tie into your alarm to give you the roll down function(forgot what they are called). With one unit you have the ability to have all the windows roll up or down with your alarm system(not both unless designed to do so), but you can wire it to do both up and down on two windows(so I would need two units). You just have to make sure the units have the auto down feature. I don't plan on doing this soon, just plans on the upcoming future. I don't really care who else does it(that's why I share my plans with others), all I care is that I get my car the way I want it. If you're thinking of doing this let me know and I'll help the best I can from here(if you are doing it yourself that is), even if you don't need help let me know how it turns out.

manxdr21

It's like stevieray told you those plastic "shims"(spacers) wear out and you cannot really take these regulators apart, at least not without some special tools and some valuble time, most fixes will be temporary. The regulator is less than $80 new from www.acuraoemparts.com. Just break down and buy it if you find the regulator is the cause. This advice is coming from the self-proclaimed cannibalizing king lol(I have fixed so many parts by using multiple broken ones), just fixed my EGR by combining the elect. portion to the diaphram of another. Good luck