if you put your car in drive the needle goes down. That is certainly interesting. It may help to pinpoint a problem. ARe you sure its just not a coincidence?
on my legend, the gear selection doesn't do anything
Car 1: 2000 Pearl White RL
Car 2: 92 L Rosewood Brown
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Quote:
Originally posted by AngelaTheLegend hmmmm
if you put your car in drive the needle goes down. That is certainly interesting. It may help to pinpoint a problem. ARe you sure its just not a coincidence?
on my legend, the gear selection doesn't do anything
Putting her in drive and moving solves the problem and the needle goes back down.
The moving part here is key... the air pocket in the system is being pushed away from the sensor when the rpm's change and the car starts moving. I bet if you leave your car in park or neutral and rev the engine a little, the needle would go down too also.
What is the operating temperature supposed to be on the temp gauge? Mine usually sits at 1.5 lines below the middle. Is that where it should be? My heat isn't as hot as I'd like it to be so I'm wondering if my thermostat isn't the right temp.
this morning, overheating as usual, up and down and up and down...NOTICE, climate control was on hot (it was nippy outside here in CT)
on way home, i kept the climate control on cold...ABSOLUTELY NO OVERHEATING, BEAUTIFULLY STEADY AND LEVEL GAUGE THE ENTIRE WAY HOME...when it really should have gotten hot like every other commute home.
Radiator has been replaced. Thermostate has been replace. Waterpump has been replaced. Any leaks my mechanic found fixed. Gasket replaced. All kinds of things to fix which I believe to be a minor problem.... Acuras have 2 seprate sensors... one to the gauge and one to the cooling fans. However, If there was a problem with the cooling fan sensor, the fans wouldn't come on at all, right??? Well, my mechanic couldn't locate the sensor to the gauge which we believe is the problem I'm getting the wrong reading... when in fact my car isn't really over heating............. What do you think??? Because if I put the car in neutral and press on the gas the gauge goes back down..... HELP
You have air in the cooling system. If you have checked everything you say you have and the hoses are good, chances are you have a blown head gasket. The button is your friend. Do one for "blown head gasket" and you'll know more than you ever wanted to about your problem. Good luck---
Originally posted by Cole Austin Putting her in drive and moving solves the problem and the needle goes back down.
The moving part here is key... the air pocket in the system is being pushed away from the sensor when the rpm's change and the car starts moving. I bet if you leave your car in park or neutral and rev the engine a little, the needle would go down too also.
Originally posted by stevieray You have air in the cooling system. If you have checked everything you say you have and the hoses are good, chances are you have a blown head gasket. The button is your friend. Do one for "blown head gasket" and you'll know more than you ever wanted to about your problem. Good luck---
is there any possible way for air to enter into my system via a faulty heater core?
Hey Every, This Morning i got a COOLENT CHANGE, Still didnt fix the problem, The guy i got it from which is a good friend of mine is going have it checked out again possiably change themosat with the FACTORY RECOMMAND BRAND. Any other sugguestions THANKS
I have a 94 ls sedan, and I too am having overheating issues, so here it goes. I just bought the car, and the seller told me that it seemed to have a leak in the radiator, so I had the radiator replace. the problem is that my car did not overheat with the old radiator but does with the new radiator installed. I took it back to the install shop where they bleed the system again. That worked for a couple of days. It started to overheat again, so I replaced the thermostat. that worked for all about 4 hrs. The car overheats when it is at an idle, but when iI start to accelerate the temp goes back down. I have no signs of a leak and no signs to show that I have a BHG! Can anyone assist me on this?
Car 1: 2000 Pearl White RL
Car 2: 92 L Rosewood Brown
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Re: Overheating Problem
Quote:
Originally posted by marvcjr I have a 94 ls sedan, and I too am having overheating issues, so here it goes. I just bought the car, and the seller told me that it seemed to have a leak in the radiator, so I had the radiator replace. the problem is that my car did not overheat with the old radiator but does with the new radiator installed. I took it back to the install shop where they bleed the system again. That worked for a couple of days. It started to overheat again, so I replaced the thermostat. that worked for all about 4 hrs. The car overheats when it is at an idle, but when iI start to accelerate the temp goes back down. I have no signs of a leak and no signs to show that I have a BHG! Can anyone assist me on this?
how fast does the temp needle rise and fall? because when you over while sitting in traffic, if the needle rises slowley, then your car really is over heating. You may need to check the cooling fan relay. If the temp needle rises and falls fast while driving, its due to air in the system.
Quote:
Originally posted by fsulegend92 Hey Every, This Morning i got a COOLENT CHANGE, Still didnt fix the problem, The guy i got it from which is a good friend of mine is going have it checked out again possiably change themosat with the FACTORY RECOMMAND BRAND. Any other sugguestions THANKS
you can try replacing the radiator cap... thats the only other cheap suggestion. Be sure to check the rear heater hoses, and any other hoses for leaks. (like the ones attached to the throttle body)
so does the temp needle rise and fall when the car is moving?
and when the car is at idle, does the temp needle rise slowly?
Quote:
Originally posted by a black korean Radiator has been replaced. Thermostate has been replace. Waterpump has been replaced. Any leaks my mechanic found fixed. Gasket replaced. All kinds of things to fix which I believe to be a minor problem.... Acuras have 2 seprate sensors... one to the gauge and one to the cooling fans. However, If there was a problem with the cooling fan sensor, the fans wouldn't come on at all, right??? Well, my mechanic couldn't locate the sensor to the gauge which we believe is the problem I'm getting the wrong reading... when in fact my car isn't really over heating............. What do you think??? Because if I put the car in neutral and press on the gas the gauge goes back down..... HELP
when you put the car in neutral and press on the gas the gauge goes back down..... b/c you need to bleed the cooling system. make sure your mechanic did beed the system several times after he replaced everything. I've found that it takes me about 3 to 4 times of bleeding the system, driving around, letting the car sit at idle, then bleeding the system again, to get all of the air out.
As for the fan sensor... I don't think there is a seperate sensor? My car always turns on the fans when the temp needle gets about 3/4 of the way up (the third white line). But somebody please correct me if I am wrong.
Originally posted by marvcjr I have a 94 ls sedan, and I too am having overheating issues, so here it goes. I just bought the car, and the seller told me that it seemed to have a leak in the radiator, so I had the radiator replace. the problem is that my car did not overheat with the old radiator but does with the new radiator installed. I took it back to the install shop where they bleed the system again. That worked for a couple of days. It started to overheat again, so I replaced the thermostat. that worked for all about 4 hrs. The car overheats when it is at an idle, but when iI start to accelerate the temp goes back down. I have no signs of a leak and no signs to show that I have a BHG! Can anyone assist me on this?
thanks for all the speedy replies, Cole, when i am at an idle it rises fast and when i accelerate it falls back down fast to then normal operating temperature. It does not overheat as long as i am driving. just at an idle. The radiator fan does come on and go off as the car starts to overheat but i guess it is not enough? Dunno
Car 1: 2000 Pearl White RL
Car 2: 92 L Rosewood Brown
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Re: Re: Overheating Problem
Quote:
Originally posted by marvcjr thanks for all the speedy replies, Cole, when i am at an idle it rises fast and when i accelerate it falls back down fast to then normal operating temperature. It does not overheat as long as i am driving. just at an idle. The radiator fan does come on and go off as the car starts to overheat but i guess it is not enough? Dunno
It defiently must be air in the cooling system. What is happening is when you sit at idle, the coolant is moving slow enough to allow the air to rise to the top of the system, as it does this the temperature sensor (which is located near the top of the system) reads the air pocket as "HOT" and that causes your temp spike.
The second you start moving again, the temp needle falls because the coolant flows faster and flushes out the air bubble... when you get the coolant flowing under higher RPM's, the air gets spread out and the temperature sensor never gets the air pocket again. which is why you read normal temperature while moving.
Your car, like many others on this thread are not truly over heating, but instead has a coolant leak.
Places prone to leaks are:
The heater core hoses (at the back of the engine, they go through the firewall near the passneger side)
Directly behind the intake there are hoses that run into the throttle body that most people miss checking because you have to remove the air intake to see them
And (pray its not this) your Headgasket.
I'm not saying that your car may have any of those problems, I'm just saying that its a higher possibility in legends to have the above problems. I would have a mechanic check the entire cooling system for leaks. Right now it sounds like you have very small amount of air in your cooling system. Bleed out the air (further back on this thread there are several links explaining how).
Also, I would guess you have a pressure leak, so the car must be running and at normal opperating temperature to even beable to determine if there are any external leaks.
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