CraigB

Here's one I can't figure out. The car only overheats if the heat is on, it won't overheat any other way. Anyone got any ideas?

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redskinsluv

Doesn't seem to be the same as what I have read the last few days in other posts. So I am wondering if I am dealing with seperate issues.

1. Same - Get the white smoke sometimes, but not all the time.
2. Same - Car will overheat while I am sitting at a light, but drop back down when I get moving. (This seems to happen when I need to add coolant, because it doesn't run hot for a about a day after I top it off)
3. Same - Heat will blow cold air from time to time then come back to hot. (is this because of a BHG too?)

1. Different - I have to top off antifreeze like every couple days, and it takes a lot. I put in the same amount that is in overflow, and maybe close to a quart more?! (I never see any leaks though)
2. Different - Last time it over heated the very next day and it didn't even need any more coolant than was in the overflow?! (first time that ever happened)
3. Different - Clicking coming from top of engine, gotten louder over last few days?!

I am trying to get a handle on what is going on. And I am looking for any insight. Maybe these issues are the same BHG problem or different problems, I don't know?

PHPHINPH

Yet another BHG Question

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The first symtom was a blown radiator but it had 340K miles on it so I assumed this was just due to age. After replacing with an OEM radiator the car still had what seemed to be a lower than normal operating temp yet the upper hose was hot and solid. I had a well qualified shop install a new, not OEM thermostat and indeed they used a $30 one not a $10 from some knock off parts store. The car ran fairly well, short of a fast idle which has done for a while at times. After about 4 days the temp started to spike and the air blew cold then dropped to normal and the air warmed. It continued to do this so I returned and the shop installed yet another thermostat but this time from Acura. Better yet, it was a total charge in addition to the original charge for the first $199 thermostat job of $12 more ($211 for 2 replacements! Thats a shop).

Here is my question, know Acuras to be picky when it comes to certain parts, could the non OEM thermostat have been the issue? It has been acting normal since the 2nd replacement and I have to wonder. I love this car and want to hit 500K before I retire her. However, if I have a BHG than I would rather dump it and run while it is running without the overheating issue.

Please note, it has burned oil for the last 100K and it is hard to notice if the exhaust is now a combination of oil and coolant. Also, the oil on the dipstick is CLEAN.

Before I ditch my first love, please someone tell me their thoughts. Due to this forum I have received so much useful info and advice by just looking at threads, this is my best and last chance.

djravi

Hey guys, I recently purchased a 93 Legend coupe with the type 2 engine mated to an auto tranny. i love the car however i'm having a few problems with it. these problems and my guesses are:

1. the air coming from the climate control system takes a bit of time to change from hot to cold vice versa; a/c compressor works fine - LOOSE CABLE ON THE LEVER TO OPEN/CLOSE THE COOLANT VALVE ON THE INLET HOSE TO THE HEATER CORE?


2. when the heater is on FULL, at the highest temperature and highest fan speed, the heat still blows a little cool until you don't drive the car for a bit or rev the engine. the temperature gauge shows that the car is at operating temperature app. 10 min. after start-up (the gauge is 1-2 notches below the middle point). the car does NOT overheat or smoke out the tailpipe. also the top rad hose gets hot, however the hose connecting to the thermostat takes a long while to get hot (app. 5-10 min. - i believe this is normal as the hose going to the thermostat should be letting cool coolant in) - BLOCKED HEATER CORE (PERFORM COOLANT FLUSH)?

3. on cold startup, the engine stumbles like it's misfiring and wants to stall. it does this on idle only and when you shift the car into gear when the engine's cold. also, while warming up, the rpm fluctuates as well (+/- 500 rpm). after warm-up the car runs very smooth. also, when the engines cool, sometimes when warm, if you start the car and shut if off, then re-start it, the rpm rises to normal cold idle speed (1,500ish rpm) the rpm drops down rather quickly, stumbles, then goes to normal warm idling rpm (500-750 rpm) - TUNE-UP REQUIRED?

4. today, for the first time, the cooling fans came on as soon as the car was started (with the engine being cold once again) - BAD COOLANT TEMP SENSOR?


PLEASE HELP! the legend is my dream car and i don't want anything bad 2 happen 2 it or worry about hefty repairs!
Any help and advice from you guys is GREATLY appreciated! Thanks in advance!

cwazyboi

so my car died on me last night, first the "D4" started blinking and i wasnt sure what it meant and i was less than a mile from my house so i put it in D3 and drove very slow so at least i make it home. Only a min later the check engine light turned on and a clanking/rattling sound and by the time i got to the main entrance it completely died on me. first thing i did was put the hood up and the engine was smoking bad. after it cooled down i managed to get it turned back on and parked it, but now the engine doesnt turn over and sounds like the alternator is gone, making a fast clicking sound. so im not sure what might be the problem.

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ethan_hunt

I recently bought another t-stat from Auto- Zone, only to still have the over-heating problem,I put the OEM back in today, I relpaced one bad relay and the sensor at the bottom of the radiator, but it still spikes to the red area, i have noticed that this only happens in the morning, in the afternoon the temp stays at normal operating level...is a BHG on the horizon? I dont have white smoke or water in my oil, the car runs great actually....HELP!!!!

killaswa6

JUS YESTERDAY MY CAR BEGAN OVER HEATING ON THE FREEWAY.. AS I EXITED OFF THE CAR WAS SMOKING REALLY BAD UNDER THE HOOD BUT I NEVER SEEN WHITE SMOKE COME OUT THE TAIL PIPES. HOWEVER THE CAR DID TURN OFF AS I CAME TO A COMPLETE STOP AND AFTER LETTING IT SIT OVER 30 MINS DID NOT START. I WENT BACK TO THE LOCATION OF THE CAR THIS MOURNING AND IT STILL WONT START. THE IGNITION TURNS AND IT FEELS LIKE IT WANTS TO CATCH BUT IT JUS WONT. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME

THANKS

doran19

It doesnt ALWAYS mean you have BHG. That is just the easy way out for 2nd generation legend owners to say they have one. I had all the classic overheating problems, replaced the radiator, thermo, added antifreeze every 2 days bc it leaked into my resivoir and steamed out the hose. Today i bought a new radiator cap and what do ya know, all my problems went away. The reason being, if there is a broken seal on the radiator cap, the pressure from the antifreeze expanding looks for holes like that to travel to. Once the fluid got to the top its only way out was the resivoir, and once you lost alot of antifreeze that is when you see the steam coming out because its getting pushed to the top. If your radiator cap works the antifreeze doesnt get pulled towards the air leak so the pressure is kept in the raidator and sent through your hoses into the motor instead of the top of the radiator.

amcgeesr

MY 94 LEGEND HAS 196,000MI IT WAS DOING ALL THESE THINGS IT WAS OVERHEATING BUT NOT ALL THE TIME, I WOULD LET IT RUN FOR 30-40 MINUTES NOTHING SOON AS I STARTED TO DRIVE IT IT WOULD OVERHEAT, CHANGED THERMOSTAT SAME PROBLEM TOOK IT TO THE SHOP BLOWN HEAD GASKET $1500-3000 TO FIX. NEEDLESS TO SAY I BOUGHT AN ENGINE FROM JAPAN FOR ABOUT $1500 WITH 35,000 MI, BEING INSTALLED AS WE SPEAK. SO THE LEGEND SHOULD BE PRACTICALLY NEW WHEN I GET IT BACK.

cjzerocool

Everyone should always check your condenser and radiator fan relays too....I did an engine swap on a car only to find out that the fans weren't working and thats why the car was overheating....no fans were working.....i replaced the relay and now i have a good Legend Engine that works....

anyone want a Legend Engine? $250!!

carmichael

I just wanted to say, I bought a 93 Acura 5sp a few months ago. When the guy sold it to me, he said it just needed a tstat, so I brought one with me for the sale. Long story short the tstat didn't help but I loved the car so paid $500, it has about 140k. A few days later I got the constant heavy smoke and it overheated within 8mins of driving and all the coolant was gone. So after trying the obvious bleeding, hoses. Etc. I got some block/gasket seal for $10 dollars. No smoke and I'm holding all my coolant the temp is not fine. So if you need to get by until you upgrade the engine or get the nuts to change the BHG.
Here is my question maybe once a week my gage will shoot up but will go right back down, So I changed the temp sensor but the new one shot up within 4 mins after I started the car cold so we checked the actual temp of the engine and it was still cold.
Any reason this aftermarket temp sensor would work worse then the original? Do you think the dealer would have a better one? I did notice the old one had a 12m nut and the new one was 13m.. Any ideas?

carmichael

I'm sorry, I should read what I post first..
The Temp is great since I put the head seal stuff in.
With one blemish which is not a huge deal, about once a week the gage will shoot up and and will go right back down.

The car is not actually overheating but I would like to get an accurate reading. Is there anything special about these temp sensors?

BTW: The temp sensor is located right behind the coolant bleeder valve.

playereaze

is there hose on botton of engine center first time seing leak there not while running water pump hose hand bend in it causing problems just notice tired but love my car had bad exp with so called mechanics that emptied my pockets to see bent hose

stuffie_stuff

Okay, Im not sure why my legend is overheating. its a '94 type II auto. K, so first the car wasn't heat up, i replaced the thremo: fixed. A couple months later, a heater hose was leaking, i fixed it. THEN the next day the car over heated (never over heated before, since i bought it). The pressure cap was blowing off. Replaced it, still over heats. Replaced thermo with one that opens 10 degrees sooner, drained and replaced fluid (and removed air). Still over heats. Now the weird, It doesn't loose fluid, the heater blows cool, i was retarted and took the pressure cap off when it was at normal temp... and got sprayed with.... COLD water. But the water shot out, so the pump must be working... The fans also dont come on... i have no idea what's wrong with it. Also, when you first turn it on, it puffs a little white some (some times) but also surges... but once its warm, or in drive (with the break on so it wont move and drops RPM) it wont surge or puff steam. So basicly... i have no idea what's wrong. The wasnt oil in the coolant i drained... and i can't find oil on the oil dip stick...

dirty georgia boy

Can someone tell me why the fans won't turn off on my 95 Legend?

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