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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)


       

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Old 12-18-03, 02:11 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Re: Overheating

Quote:
Originally posted by pdxlegend
|Cole Austin:My coolant level was completely full, and just like before I have once again gotten air in my cooling system. I have never found a leak outside the car. Looks like I'm going take the car to get tested for a BHG. I'm just confused b/c I don't have the white smoke or loss of power that normally happens from a BHG...|

Cole Austin... the same thing happened to me. Check your radiator cap and its gasket (gasket is actually attached to the cap) and make sure that the coolant is between the min and max as that alone could cause an ever so slight pressure problem if completely full.

My local Acura dealer services my car and when this happened to me they said I had a BHG but since I didn't have any smoke or performance loss I investigated for myself... coolant resivoir was bone dry and the gasket on the radiator cap was shot. Replaced cap and added coolant and now it's like new. Not saying Acura dealers are crooked but... :p

I was planning on doing that today! But it might be a while before I know if that solved the problem.
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Old 12-19-03, 05:14 AM   #47 (permalink)
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what does it mean if my legend is losing coolant, but the reservoir bottle still reads full? my car will quickly overheat, and there will be no circulation of coolant; both radiator hoses will be completely empty with no pressure. the mechanic said that i probably have a bad head gasket after fixing one radiator leak and closing the bleeder valve (how that got open, i'm not sure). i can lose 2 gallons of coolant/water in less than 20 minutes. the mechanic didn't think it was the water pump because he didn't see any coolant leaking onto the floor. i plan on replacing the whole engine (almost 210k miles) anyway, but would like to know what exactly the problem is first. thanks.
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Old 12-19-03, 01:57 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Old 12-19-03, 02:03 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Old 12-20-03, 01:20 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Yep, Running Hot

Hi,

91 Legend Coupe, 155k. Car first started running hot a couple of years ago, changed thermostat. Worked for awhile, running hot again, changed radiator about a year ago. Started running hot again recently in cold weather, heat on full (heat never varied tho), noticed fans don't come on when temp is up; they do come on when a/c is on.

1- Where are the three relays? Can i swap em w/another relay (horn, etc) to test?

2- Where is the fan control unit?

3- should i just give it to my mechanic?

Thanks!
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Old 12-23-03, 01:05 PM   #51 (permalink)
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All right, I replaced my radiator cap and it did not fix my problem.

Something new happened while I was trying to bleed the air out of my cooling system. I opened the valve, and absolutely nothing came out. No coolant, no air, it just sat there. The car was running and at the normal operating temperature.

I revved up the engine and coolant spilled out of the valve. Confused I closed it again, and drove the car around in first gear a little to get the coolant flowing. Again I opened up the air bleed valve, and NOTHING!!! it did the same thing.

I am beginning to think I may need a new radiator? And I am starting to think its not the head gasket.
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Old 12-23-03, 02:04 PM   #52 (permalink)
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finally

after leaving my sexy beast at the mechanics for several days until he got to it, he diagnosed it as a loose hose and fixed it. Now I have to wait for the speed sensor to come in and i'm all good. this is such a relief since I had the wp/tb service done a few months back.
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Old 12-23-03, 08:24 PM   #53 (permalink)
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I get a lot of white smoke when my car is idle but while im driving it goes away... It doesnt smell like coolant... it doesnt smell like rotten eggs, and it doesnt smell like a whole lot of gas either, cant really explain how it smells but it stinks... and my coolant reservoir level is good and my radiator is full...

Also when im driving my temp gauge shoots up and blows really HOT air but after a min it goes back to normal and it blows less then normal warm air.... sometimes vice-versa...

can anyone explain?


When buying a repair manual get the Haynes Integra & Legend one... That Chilton's manual doesnt expain NOTTA!

Mike where did you order your speed sensor?
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Old 12-24-03, 07:16 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by nimo253


Mike where did you order your speed sensor?
Sorry Nimo, I couldnt tell you. It's all my mechanics doing.
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Old 12-28-03, 12:31 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Re: finally

Quote:
Originally posted by mikemike71
after leaving my sexy beast at the mechanics for several days until he got to it, he diagnosed it as a loose hose and fixed it. Now I have to wait for the speed sensor to come in and i'm all good. this is such a relief since I had the wp/tb service done a few months back.
oh well, car is still running hot as of last evening and while sitting at a stop light for an extended period of time the hot air starts to run cold. I am going to just take it in to Norris Acura West on Tuesday to see if they can diagnose the problem.

one moment please...

ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!

thank you for letting me vent
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Old 12-30-03, 09:37 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Hi Group,
My story was listed tonight in the BHG thread but started with overheating and erratic tach. I don't have white smoke or coolant smell. I do have a bad radiator cap and I do see oil in the collant now. I reasoned low pressure in radiator was keeping coolant out of the cylinders but maybe its allowing oil to leak through HG leak into radiator. Might as well try the new radiator cap.
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Old 12-30-03, 05:03 PM   #57 (permalink)
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So far I have searched throughout the forum trying to see if anyone else has had this problem before. I am leaking coolant from behind the heater core/blower assymbly from the hose that connects to the fire wall. I am currently trying to remove the heater core, which is a real *****, and I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem? Also if anyone could describe to me how to remove the heater core that would also be great.
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Old 12-31-03, 02:48 PM   #58 (permalink)
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This car is starting to get to me...

Anyways, I just replaced the thermostat and i still get hot spikes and cold air through the heater... when im at a light or something.. but when i go on the highway it gets hotter and hotter, then the needle just drops to normal.
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For those living in the Tacoma/Seattle or surrounding areas, I have a great mech that does a great job. Head Gasket $600/labor + $50 Flux. Just supply parts. Email me nimo_253@operamail.com.
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Old 01-02-04, 09:57 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Angry hot

if put new head gasket and waterpump, do i need to shave the heads
or just get a used engine
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Old 01-02-04, 03:04 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Symptoms and BHG.

It seems there are a variety of symptoms that folks are reporting:
1. White smoke (indicative of coolant in combustion chamber meaning a BHG)
2. Overheating (which can result from a BHG, inoperative fan, faulty temp sensor, or bad thermostat)
3. Oil in coolant (indicative of a BHG)
4. Loss of power, misfiring (lots of possible causes in addition to BHG)
5. Loss of coolant (overheating like #2 above, leaking water pump, leaking hose, cracked radiator, old rad cap, or BHG)
6. Heater blows cold at idle; warm when driving

In December I had #4 (and also #5 but I hadn't noticed it myself). I narrowed the problem down to the rearmost cylinder on passenger side by removing, one at a time, the fuel injector wires while idling. Hoped it was a FI problem, so I put 3 bottles of FI cleaner in the gas tank. No improvement. Took it to the shop where they diagnosed BHG. 3 days and $2K later I'm running OK.

This 95 Legend has 160K. I bought it in 1999 with 80K and almost immediately replaced a leaking radiator. My personal theory: a ham-fisted mechanic stressed the plastic radiator header while changing the air filter. Acuras are full of little clips and tabs where unrelated parts are braced or bolted together.

But I have ... still have that is ... symptom #6. I lack a Helm's manual, but I am assuming that there is a vacuum operated coolant valve which restricts flow to the heater core and that the vacuum valve is controlled by an electrical signal from the computer. And that the computer gets its info from the heater control settings and a temperature sensor. So there are a lot of possibilities: low coolant, poor vacuum at idle, faulty sensor, vacuum leak, and so on. Can someone confirm my theory concerning the architecture of this thing please? And did anyone else have this symptom and cure it?
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