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Originally Posted by alexc
Replacing the headunit for a Premium System
If you want to replace the Bose tuner with an aftermarket headunit, you have several options.
1) You can bypass the Bose amplifier and remove it, allowing the new headunit to power the speakers. The headunit will likely be intended to power 4 ohm speakers, so if you have not replaced the Bose speakers, they will play at twice the volume. Although there is some disagreement, it is likely possible that you could fry your headunit if you crank the volume a lot.
2) You can leave the Bose amplifier in place and use a LLC (Line Level Converter) in between the headunit and the amplifier. This would convert the amplified signal sent out from your headunit into a line level signal that the Bose amplifier is designed to accept. You can also try without an LLC and simply hook it up, some have reported success doing this although it would not be considered a “clean” install and will not yield the best sound quality.
3) You could splice RCA connections onto the ends of the speaker wire pairs and connect them to your headunit’s RCA front and rear pre-outs if it has them. I don’t think anyone has actually tried this setup, although in theory it could work.
4) Ideally, you should replace all of the speakers and the headunit, and bypass the amplifier. I did this, and also removed my tweeters when I replaced the Bose Premium system in my 94 LS, the impact on sound quality from removing them is negligible and un-noticeable to most.
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hmmm... ok I got an alpine headunit with apperently too much power for the inputs on the factory amp (I have a bose premium sound system). Here's the problem: I plugged the new headunit into the wiring harness thinking the amp inputs could take the High (powered) speaker wires from the headunit. This sorta worked, but the volume is VERY loud. Even if you barely turn it up (volume level 10 is as loud as I would think speakers should be, but the headunit goes to 35).
So... I figured it needed pre-amp inputs. so I spliced some RCA wires, and plugged them from the Headunit (RCA out) to the wiring harness. This sorta worked also, but the volume is very soft and a little distorted.
If I get a LLC (Line Level Converter),
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2) You can leave the Bose amplifier in place and use a LLC (Line Level Converter) in between the headunit and the amplifier.
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I would think that would be the same as using my headunit's pre-amp outputs (RCA). So.... #2 wouldn't work would it? Apperently the amp's inputs require more than Alpine's RCA outputs?
And I've already tried #3:
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3) You could splice RCA connections onto the ends of the speaker wire pairs and connect them to your headunit’s RCA front and rear pre-outs if it has them. I don’t think anyone has actually tried this setup, although in theory it could work.
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No luck...
I guess my bottom line question is:
Before I go buy 4 new door speakers AND take the time to bypass the factory Amp, Does anyone know what the output level of the original Headunit (2100 Premium P/N:39100-Sp0-A200-M1) is?
Is it low wattage like 15 watts RMS? or High Line Level (does that even exsist?)?
Is there a way to find out RMS by hooking it up and splicing speaker wires to test with a multimeter?
I'd really rather use the factory speakers than spend more money
I spent it all on my sub/sub-amp
Thanks for any ideas you may have!
I still have some questions!!!
Linear Mode
