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#2 (permalink) |
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Legend no more
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Ummm ... you wet the sand paper, then you rub.
Detailers can use this to restor paint, but I wouldn't try it at home. When you paint, you do this as a final prep for top coating.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Hi Skate. Since I do some of this in my line of work off and on, I will try to answer your Q.
BodyShop do these process alot. On primer and on color painted surfaces to achieve smooth flawless painted surfaces. Wet sanding is a process of getting rid of "tiny" "micro", "pin", holes", or painting flaws on the painted object or on a primered surfaces . You do this by using water, "FINE" sandpaper such as 400 or 600 grid sandpaper, rigid but flexible rubber piece (square or rectangler shape, and bucket filled with water. *Also note you can rub two of 400 grid or 2 of 600 grid sandpaper to create even finer sandpaper. ok to begin....you first wet the surface you want to clean up in primer or painted surfaces.. then the fine sandpaper is wrapped around the flexible rubber piece held by thumb and the rest of fingers..Wet this sandpaper and start to send the surfaces in swirl motion ( in circular movement). very very gently.. I say gently because the trick is to not strip the painted or primered layer but sand away the top flawed surfaces that is 1/1000th or so surface. Hope this helps.. Any q ask me ill try to help. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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1Bar GSR
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Gulf Breeze
Posts: 846
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This is what you can use to get scratches out and polish headlights and taillights... you get like 2000grit and 1500 grit sand paper and get soap and water and scrub on scratches for like 5 - 10mins with a little elbow grease they will come out (little ones that is) then get polishing compound and rub that around and it looks good. You can also polish up your headlights with kinda the same process... BTW I did it to the skyline tails makes a big difference.
Nick
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#6 (permalink) |
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1Bar GSR
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Gulf Breeze
Posts: 846
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I don't know anything about paint but I think if you were to sand it down it would take the paint off even with a low grit your best guess is just to paint it... I was talking to a guy at a paint and body shop and he said for my rear bumper it would be 200 that is a decent price for all the work...
Nick
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http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...4/f941411c.jpg Engine 9:1 Compression Pistons Eagle Rods Darton sleeves KMS Valves KMS Springs KMS Retainers Edelbrock Victor X Intake Manifold Skunk 2 Cam Gears Greddy Power Exhaust RS*R Headers 3-Angle Vavle Job Bored block to 2.0L Micropolished and Balanced Crank Port & Polish Head Port Match Intake Manifold Suspension Koni Adjustable Shocks Neuspeed Lowering Springs Misc. Front and Rear Sway Bars Short Shifter I.C.E. Alpine Headunit False floor with 2 MTX 10s Power Acoustik 525w Amp MBQuartz Components & 6x9s |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 4,144
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Quote:
All shops "wet sand" as the process allows the paper to last longer (doesn't clog). Uses rubber sanding block. Not to be confused with "blocking" which uses a stiffer sanding block (like wood) to achieve a mirror-like finish. More labor intensive; not recommended for a daily driver.
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#8 (permalink) |
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*r**h *eller
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Rockville Md
Posts: 1,951
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Let's not forget that after wet sanding you also need to buff out the paint.
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Started rebuilding IC engines in 1968 at the US Merchant Marine Academy. Don't think you know more than me about auto/IC/control systems unless you can document your education. |
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