Still Photography I - Page 2

Pinyix · 09-25-07, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CollectiveInk

Speaking of developing film.... if you or anyone is interested, I have an enlarger and development materials (no chemicals) that I'm willing to offer to a photog student free, just pay shipping.

I was going to convert my third bathroom to a dark room and realized I'll never get around to it.

So just pm or email me and I'll set you up.

(Camera not included.)

Tim

Thanks but no thanks. The developing lab has everything I need and hopefully I won't be developing film for longer than a couple semesters. dSLR FTW.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bandoni

oh you already have the flash thats the most expensive part, all you need to get is a $28 hotshoe radio slave off ebay. the flash i got is really old its a nikon sb-25. as long as you can set the intensity of the flash your gold!

Oh damn, really? Something like this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Channel-Wirele...QQcmdZViewItem

Where does that plug in? It looks like the right fitting. Its just the one single contact. Its just too bad it takes a full six seconds to charge and runs on two AA batteries.

CollectiveInk · 09-25-07, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pinyix

Thanks but no thanks. The developing lab has everything I need and hopefully I won't be developing film for longer than a couple semesters. dSLR FTW.

It's cool. The offer stands for anyone. So if you know of someone, just let me know. I just hate for it to sit here gathering dust.

bandoni™ · 09-25-07, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pinyix

Oh damn, really? Something like this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Channel-Wirele...QQcmdZViewItem

Where does that plug in? It looks like the right fitting. Its just the one single contact. Its just too bad it takes a full six seconds to charge and runs on two AA batteries.

you got it! thats the very one i use. you plug the one with the yellow button up to the hot shoe on top of you camera and then plug the part with the screw on to the bottom of the flash. does your flash have a manual setting?

Pinyix · 09-25-07, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bandoni

you got it! thats the very one i use. you plug the one with the yellow button up to the hot shoe on top of you camera and then plug the part with the screw on to the bottom of the flash. does your flash have a manual setting?

Humm... it has three settings, blue, white and gold or yellow if I recall correctly. Never thought of what they might do though.

bandoni™ · 09-25-07, 12:54 PM

thats odd what model is it? btw here are some pics that have been done with a remote flash. http://www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/pool/

the remote flash just open a whole new world of photography for me, and i was just like you hating the flash because it doesn't look natural. my friend colby showed me his setup which is about a $600 setup about what i paid for my camera

but the cool thing about it is you can use old slr flashes and they do just the same as the $400 flashes. The only difference is that the more expensive ones have more programs. You can even mix and match manufactures as well because the flash isn't going directly on your dslr.

CollectiveInk · 09-25-07, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pinyix

Humm... it has three settings, blue, white and gold or yellow if I recall correctly. Never thought of what they might do though.

Does it have an auto-thyristor? If it does, it could be 'auto, full, 1/2 (or 1/4)' if it doesn't have an AT, then it's most likely 'full, 1/2, 1/4' power. Do you have a flash meter at school? You could meter it on each setting and see how many stops difference there is using the same (fake) ISO and distance.

Pinyix · 09-25-07, 02:00 PM

Collectiveink, I barely know what you're talking about. It actually popped right on my dSLR though and I checked out the different settings. Theres a chart on the back that I can't make much sense of but I think the three settings are for distance. Just testing in my room, blue was a little dim, gold seemed perfect and white over exposed the shot. From the sounds of the flash, I think the fraction of a second the flash is active for increases or decreases too.

CollectiveInk · 09-25-07, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pinyix

Collectiveink, I barely know what you're talking about. It actually popped right on my dSLR though and I checked out the different settings. Theres a chart on the back that I can't make much sense of but I think the three settings are for distance. Just testing in my room, blue was a little dim, gold seemed perfect and white over exposed the shot. From the sounds of the flash, I think the fraction of a second the flash is active for increases or decreases too.

It's ok.

Auto thyristors were the way flashes shut off when there was enough light before all the digital metering and such. It'd look like a little black pinhole in the front (usually).

What brand/model of flash is it? That will make it easier to figure out.

The chart on the back is the way you can make sure your flash will provide enough light (based on focal length/apature/film speed... usually with flash synch speeding being constant at 1/60th or 1/200th, depending on the camera.)

Note of caution: When using a modern dSLR and a generic (non-dedicated) or older flash, you'll lose a lot of the auto-exposure features (at the least) and could possibly fry your camera (at the worst).

I just found out that even using my studio lights, my dSLR is at risk for voltage spikes, so I've got to get a in-line voltage regulator, and that's using the PC synch cable.

Pinyix · 09-25-07, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CollectiveInk

It's ok.

Auto thyristors were the way flashes shut off when there was enough light before all the digital metering and such. It'd look like a little black pinhole in the front (usually).

What brand/model of flash is it? That will make it easier to figure out.

The chart on the back is the way you can make sure your flash will provide enough light (based on focal length/apature/film speed... usually with flash synch speeding being constant at 1/60th or 1/200th, depending on the camera.)

Note of caution: When using a modern dSLR and a generic (non-dedicated) or older flash, you'll lose a lot of the auto-exposure features (at the least) and could possibly fry your camera (at the worst).

I just found out that even using my studio lights, my dSLR is at risk for voltage spikes, so I've got to get a in-line voltage regulator, and that's using the PC synch cable.

Well I don't plan to use this flash on my camera, I was just testing. Its no better than my on camera flash. The flash is a promatic FA1000. The blue setting reveals a pin hole on the front like you talked about.

CollectiveInk · 09-25-07, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pinyix

Well I don't plan to use this flash on my camera, I was just testing. Its no better than my on camera flash. The flash is a promatic FA1000. The blue setting reveals a pin hole on the front like you talked about.

Does the chart you're talking about look like this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/KYDCERA-YASHICA-200-AF-35MM-CAMERA-W-PROMATIC-FTD-2000_W0QQitemZ170151030594QQihZ007QQcategoryZ3343Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

These would be more inline for use with your Nikon:
For "M" (manual) you would set the appropriate apature based on your film speed and distance from the subject.
Auto (gold/blue) seems to be full power (but since gold halves the distance of the blue but doubles the apature it'd be equal light output, so it might have something to do with the amount the light spreads) and with the appropriate camera mount, it'd automatically shut off when "enough" light is put out.

So basically, with 100 ISO/ASA film, and a subject somewhere less than 10 feet you'd set your apature for 5.6 to get proper exposure (of the subject.)

As you learn more on exposure, you'll be able to work out the different ratios, and thus lead to professional (and creative) flash exposure.

Hope I haven't provided TMI, I've just always enjoyed photography... well at least for the past 26 years or so.

09-25-07, 12:54 PM	#20 (permalink)
bandoni™ putting the ass in class Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: casa grande, az Posts: 3,502 Car 1: 90 honda accord ex5speed Car 2: 89 legend sedan auto iTrader: (3)	thats odd what model is it? btw here are some pics that have been done with a remote flash. http://www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/pool/ the remote flash just open a whole new world of photography for me, and i was just like you hating the flash because it doesn't look natural. my friend colby showed me his setup which is about a $600 setup about what i paid for my camera but the cool thing about it is you can use old slr flashes and they do just the same as the $400 flashes. The only difference is that the more expensive ones have more programs. You can even mix and match manufactures as well because the flash isn't going directly on your dslr. __________________ sig by doubleglow the sigwhisperer ƃuıʇsod ǝɹoɟǝq ɥɔɹɐǝs plnoɥs sɹǝsn ʍǝu join the acura legend flickr group visit my flickr page

09-25-07, 02:00 PM	#22 (permalink)
Pinyix BHG Motorsports Join Date: May 2006 Location: Central NJ Posts: 3,824 Car 1: Legend Saloon iTrader: (11)	Collectiveink, I barely know what you're talking about. It actually popped right on my dSLR though and I checked out the different settings. Theres a chart on the back that I can't make much sense of but I think the three settings are for distance. Just testing in my room, blue was a little dim, gold seemed perfect and white over exposed the shot. From the sounds of the flash, I think the fraction of a second the flash is active for increases or decreases too. __________________ .:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:. .:JDM Navi Console DIY:. .:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:. I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once

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