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touchup paints?

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2.2K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  WhiteLegend  
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#1 ·
does anybody know where I can get touchup paint for nh351m (charcoal granite metallic)...dupli-color does not carry that color. would an acura dealership carry a small spray/pen/bottle of that stuff or do I have to get the paint color done at a custom shop?

thanks
ghostktulu
 
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#2 ·
I'm sure that Acura Dealer carry the paint for your car. If they don't have one, they can usually order one for you. The touchup paint from Acura Dealer is in the form of small bottle with brush applicator (like the one for nail painting). You can get a bottle of the touchup paint for about $4-5.

Mocca
 
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#5 ·
paintscratch.com seems expensive...but its seems worth the money. how is the dealer paint? do they have a two-step touchup paint...or is it a one-step deal? I may go with paintscratch.com...anybody want to share thier experiences with paintscratch.com/dealer/etc?

thanks again
ghostktulu
 
#7 ·
damn it, why is Pearl White such a pain in the @ss.
On the site, it says I have to buy 3 paints, a basecoat, a mid coat and clearcoat, because my paint is called tricoat paint.

I love the way pearl white looks, I just don't like the hassle. Half of the body shopping in my area won't even attempt to repair my rust spots because they can't match the paint.
 
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#8 ·
ghostKtulu said:
paintscratch.com seems expensive...but its seems worth the money. how is the dealer paint? do they have a two-step touchup paint...or is it a one-step deal? I may go with paintscratch.com...anybody want to share thier experiences with paintscratch.com/dealer/etc?

thanks again
ghostktulu
Click to expand...
I've never used the products from the paintscratch.com but the spray can version is much better than the paint brush version that you will get from an Acura Dealer. With Spray can, if you are really careful with covering and spraying, you will get a neat smooth surface. You will have a hard time get a nice smooth surface with the brush touchup paint. I learned the hard way try to use the touch up paint I get from Acura of Boston. While the color match pretty good, it take time and patience to get the finishing surface smooth (but not as good as If I use a spray can). One word of caution though, even if you get a match color touchup paint, the color of your bumper after painting will never be 100% match with your existing color since the color on your car is older (presumably you didn't paint your car recently) and it will be a bit different depending on how good your existing piant is. After you finish with the paint, you will definitely want to cover the paint with a clear coat to provide some protection to the beautiful paint :)

Mocca
 
9
#9 ·
mocca said:


I've never used the products from the paintscratch.com but the spray can version is much better than the paint brush version that you will get from an Acura Dealer. With Spray can, if you are really careful with covering and spraying, you will get a neat smooth surface. You will have a hard time get a nice smooth surface with the brush touchup paint. I learned the hard way try to use the touch up paint I get from Acura of Boston. While the color match pretty good, it take time and patience to get the finishing surface smooth (but not as good as If I use a spray can). One word of caution though, even if you get a match color touchup paint, the color of your bumper after painting will never be 100% match with your existing color since the color on your car is older (presumably you didn't paint your car recently) and it will be a bit different depending on how good your existing piant is. After you finish with the paint, you will definitely want to cover the paint with a clear coat to provide some protection to the beautiful paint :)

Mocca
Click to expand...
what about sanding it down? don't u apply the base coat-sand it down, apply the clear coat and sand it down (in that order?)

what materials do u use to sand it down? and wouln't this mess up your original paint?
 
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#10 ·
LegendGS said:
I have purchased and used Paintscratch spray paint a number of times. It is what I use for my side markers. Very good color match, and prompt shipping.

I also have a bottle of touchup paint from the dealer, but I don't remember what I paid for it.
Click to expand...
Look like your Legend is Seattle SIlver color, is it not? I have a Seattle Silver Legend too :) Does the touchup paint from the paintscratch match the color perfectly? I might try it out on my rear bumper if the Seattle Silver touchup paint from the web site match the color well. I went to the web site and they ask about the additional code or something like that. Do you need to give them the last letter of the code or will YR-94M will be fine?

Mocca
 
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#11 ·
91LegendCoupe said:


what about sanding it down? don't u apply the base coat-sand it down, apply the clear coat and sand it down (in that order?)

what materials do u use to sand it down? and wouln't this mess up your original paint?
Click to expand...
If you have a small area that you want to paint (say, less than 2" square), sanding the area might be very difficult and the end result might be very noticeable. You can use the verty fine grit sand paper that made for this purpose specially. YOu can find them in a local autozone, pep boy or even K Mart. They range from 400-2000 grit. The higher the number, the finer it is. I don't really recommend you start using this sandpaper with your bumper, but rather work on a specimen (say, a piece of metal cover with the touchup paint layers (and clear coat) first to see what it is look like. Work your way up from the lower grit paper (say, you start from 600 -> 1000 -> 1500). This work best for most of the time. But you might need a confirmation from someone on this board that is more experience in this issue than me. I usually work on metal on specimen for my lab but never actually try to do a large paint job on my Legend myself (I don't have enough time to do this myself but it should be fun though).

I still think the large painting job is better leave for the professional since they have proper tools and experiences. But for a minor touch up, try your skills and the techniques on a piece of metal first before do it on your bumper. If you get the painting process, tools, and materials right, it will save a lot of money. The going rate of labor cost for body shop here in Boston is aroun d $50-70/hr. Some good shops even quote me around $80/hr rate which is insane IMHO. But I saw their works and must say that they are really good. Like I said, try the technique on a sample piece of metal first to see if you like the end result and to practice your skills too :)

Mocca

P.S. if you decide to do this project, it might be a good idea to make some pictures along the way when you're working on it too. It will be a really good tutorial for members who want to do the paint job themself (I for one if I have time :)) I almost go out to buy the stuff like Bondo, touchup paint and those sandpaper last week but decide against it since I have to teach two classes this semester and have a lot of works left over form the Summer :)
 
#12 ·
mocca said:


Look like your Legend is Seattle SIlver color, is it not? I have a Seattle Silver Legend too :) Does the touchup paint from the paintscratch match the color perfectly? I might try it out on my rear bumper if the Seattle Silver touchup paint from the web site match the color well. I went to the web site and they ask about the additional code or something like that. Do you need to give them the last letter of the code or will YR-94M will be fine?

Mocca
Click to expand...
Acutally, it's Cashmere Silver (YR-505M). YR-505M is all that mine says, and that's the color code I gave them. It matches very well.

Of course, the variable would be the how much your original paint has faded.

Here's a picture of the side molding that I painted using Paintscrath's spray paint.

Image
 
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#13 ·
LegendGS said:


Acutally, it's Cashmere Silver (YR-505M). YR-505M is all that mine says, and that's the color code I gave them. It matches very well.

Of course, the variable would be the how much your original paint has faded.

Here's a picture of the side molding that I painted using Paintscrath's spray paint.
Click to expand...
That looks good :D I will definitely try to repaint the side molding myself when I get my car back from the body shop. My side molding have some scratches on it. Did you use any adhesive spray to get the new paint stick to the side molding? Did you sand the original paint down to the plastic?

Mocca
 
#14 ·
mocca said:


That looks good :D I will definitely try to repaint the side molding myself when I get my car back from the body shop. My side molding have some scratches on it. Did you use any adhesive spray to get the new paint stick to the side molding? Did you sand the original paint down to the plastic?

Mocca
Click to expand...
Yes, actually in the process of building my side markers into them, I sanded all of the paint off. I then used an adhesion promoter, and a flexible primer. If you plan to use it to paint your moulding, consider requesting that they add a flex agent to the paint. This will make the paint more flexible.
 
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#15 ·
LegendGS said:


Yes, actually in the process of building my side markers into them, I sanded all of the paint off. I then used an adhesion promoter, and a flexible primer. If you plan to use it to paint your moulding, consider requesting that they add a flex agent to the paint. This will make the paint more flexible.
Click to expand...
Thanks. How can I request them to add the flex agent, call them and just ask them? I suppose that could be done if someone asked them before (hint: you) :) What is the brand of the adhesion promotor you used for the job. Can you list the materials you used and how much it cost? How long did it take you? I will get my car back end of this week so I might start buying stuff now and might try do it myself on the weekend or may be next weekend.

Mocca
 
#16 ·
There's an option I believe on the second page of their ordering process that allows you to place a check mark to request the flex agent.

The adhesion promoter, sandable flexible primer, and clear coat were all by PlastiKote.

The painting doesn't take very long. If your paint is mainly surface scratched, you can simply lightly scuff it with a mild sand paper instead of having to take all of the paint off.

The only thing that takes time is the waiting for the paint to dry.
 
C
#17 ·
Fading should not be an issue with these cars. The color coat itself shouldn't have faded. Try painting an area that is not exposed to the sun (door jambs, trunk jamb, etc. Unfortunately metallic touch ups will never match perfectly due to the metal flecks not being the exact same density. I always see light metallic colored cars with mismatched paint, the only way to avoid it is to repaint an entire side of the car and blend it into the other. My phoenix red coupe it 13 years old with original paint, and the touch up is a perfect match, something i've never been able to achieve with a metallic color.
 
#18 ·
colinc said:
Fading should not be an issue with these cars. The color coat itself shouldn't have faded. Try painting an area that is not exposed to the sun (door jambs, trunk jamb, etc. Unfortunately metallic touch ups will never match perfectly due to the metal flecks not being the exact same density. I always see light metallic colored cars with mismatched paint, the only way to avoid it is to repaint an entire side of the car and blend it into the other. My phoenix red coupe it 13 years old with original paint, and the touch up is a perfect match, something i've never been able to achieve with a metallic color.
Click to expand...
Depends on where you live and the weather conditions. My entire trunk is faded, and repaint is imminent.
 
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