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1992 Acura Legend L

3725 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  masterjohnson
I've got a bit of a doozy here and I hope someone can give me a better idea with what to do or where to go from this point then I've already gotten.

Near the beginning of November, I purchased a 92 Acura Legend L 2d model from a gentleman who was asking $1000 for it. With the extremely poor condition of the body, as well as realizing off the bat that I was going to have to replace the tires, possibly the brakes, and have exhaust work done, as well as having the windshield replaced, I told him I'd give him 650 for it. I've since realized that I believe that I still paid too much.

I also realized when I got home that I couldn't get the key out of the ignition.

Zoom ahead to the next morning where I can't get the car started. It wasn't particularly cold, and we managed to get it started fairly easily after the first irritation with it not starting. We took it around the rest of that day, put new tires on it, had the brakes checked (they were fine). Later, I had the exhaust leak taken care of (with a note that the muffler was going to need work, but it wasn't urgent) and the rewiring of a turn signal so that the front passenger turn signal socket worked again. I was also informed that the ignition tumbler would need to be replaced in order to stop having problems with getting the key out. I drove it for the rest of the day, taking periodic starts for short and longer periods of time. I had no problems starting.

With those things taken care of, we began to focus on the problem that was most troubling which was the starting problem. We started off by replacing the air filter and the fuel filter. Also noting for the first time that the car required (according to the note near the speedometer) premium unleaded gas, we filled up the tank with it, realizing that it wouldn't help (probably) but it couldn't hurt.

As you probably suspect, these three things did nothing. What we did discover during this process is that the amp in the trunk being plugged directly into the battery was draining the battery. Because of that, when I was having problems starting the car, I was killing the battery in no time flat. This was a problem, and that day we also had the battery checked to which we found that it was fine beyond being low on a charge (expected). We unplugged the amp from the battery and the battery life improved a fair amount.

The next weekend, after doing some research and talking to a few people I know who have worked in auto shops in the recent past, my uncle decided that the next part we should be looking at was the spark plugs. People I talked to seem to be on the fence about this, but being a virtually inexpensive replacement for 6 plugs, it wouldn't hurt. During this process, we discovered that the ignition coil on the first plug (realizing I don't know a whole lot about this, I'll say it's the boot over the plug and hope that I'm referring to the right thing) was cracked and taped together with electrical tape. We ordered a new ignition coil and installed it two days later, after the one we had put back in as a temporary measure broke around the spark plug, resulting in another (this time necessary) replacement of a spark plug.

Again, this didn't help, but it did seem to start a little bit better.

The next step of this process was to take it into a shop. I had three items I needed them to look into. First was the fact that the car wasn't starting. Second was that the wiper fluid was not dispensing. Third was that the rear defrost wasn't working. They took it in, told me they'd give me a call the next.

I talked to them later that day and they told me that my fuel pump was bad and would need to be replaced. The windshield wiper fluid wasn't being dispensed because of bad hoses, and they would have those replaced soon. The next day, I came in to pick up a cigarette lighter USB plug for my phone that I had left in the car and they told me what they had found out about the rear defrost.

Basically, there were a number of problems with the electrical; some of which was the radio (which I knew, as I had figured out quickly it was badly grounded and would need to be reinstalled (I hadn't done this yet)). There was a fuse that had been rewired directly into the ignition which made everything on that fuse auto on the second the ignition tumbler was turned to accessory. While I do not have that list exactly, I can provide a list should anyone require it.

So, the fuel pump replaced, the serpentine belts replaced (found out about that during an oil change), the lines for the wiper fluid and a diagnosed but untreated electrical issue later, I took my car home... only to have it not start the next day.

I took it back in to the shop, and they tested a number of different things. I'll be getting another copy of the work order so I can tell you exactly what was looked at, but the gist of what they said was that the only thing left was to start pulling apart the engine. They gave me a system for getting it started (turn over for 20 seconds, wait 10 seconds, turn over for 20 seconds.) This usually gets it started within a few minutes, and rarely gives the battery time to die (except today... :mad: ).

I've had some of the electrical done (being the radio, and it actually needs more to fully function again).

So, here's what I know; a quick recap, if you will.

- Fuel Pump replaced.
- Fuel Filter replaced.
- Air Filter replaced.
- Serpentine belts replaced.
- Most of the interior things that didn't work (rear defrost, the clock, the intermittent wipers) work again as a result of the radio work. I have not found anything that hasn't worked.

- Electrical work (I'll clarify in a later post if required) is required.
- This does include the radio.
- Ignition tumbler will release key, but it is a bit tough.
- Windshield still needs to be repaired.
- The muffler does need work, but I've been told that it isn't an urgent issue.

Now, the problem. I've got one place telling me the next thing to do is to take apart the engine. I've got another saying "Hey, check out the fuel systems (fuel relay, fuel injectors)." Finally, I've got another place saying "Hey, it's definitely an electrical problem.

The next time I go in, I want a list of what I should be looking for, and honestly, everything I've looked at so far has been a bust. Can you guys help me out? I'm really hoping to have this car last me a little while, and I really don't know what else to look at or to have someone else look at since I know very little about cars beyond what I've learned through this experience.

Thanks for any help you can give me, and happy new year to everyone!
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Replace the ignition switch and get anew key from Acura. Sounds like the switch is going out.
Wish you had come here first. Most likely your problem never had anything to do with the Fuel Pump, you just paid for one you probably didn't need. If they are a reputable shop they will stand behind it and should refund you at least the labor if I'm correct.

A common problem on our cars is the "Main Relay" up under the dash. When it goes bad the fuel pump doesn't get power, i.e. bad fuel pump diagnosis.

Have them check/replace it and see if the problem is fixed. The reason I say to have them do it is because if it does fix the problem it proves they misdiagnosed the problem in the first place.
Replace the ignition switch and get anew key from Acura. Sounds like the switch is going out.
To clarify, do you mean the ignition tumbler as I mentioned, or the actual switch? (I've had it beat into me recently that there is a difference.)

A common problem on our cars is the "Main Relay" up under the dash. When it goes bad the fuel pump doesn't get power, i.e. bad fuel pump diagnosis.

Have them check/replace it and see if the problem is fixed. The reason I say to have them do it is because if it does fix the problem it proves they misdiagnosed the problem in the first place.
Is this usually a costly fix? Is it something that is easier to take into a shop to have done?
To clarify, do you mean the ignition tumbler as I mentioned, or the actual switch? (I've had it beat into me recently that there is a difference.)
yea its 2 diff things the switch.


Is this usually a costly fix? Is it something that is easier to take into a shop to have done?
you can resolider the point on them yourself.
I did my own ignition switch and main relay install, both are things anyone with basic tools can accomplish.

The key issue is more than likely the same issue I had. (worn key) The only fix for this is to take your registration to Acura and have a fresh key cut. (DON'T get a copy of the old key made!)
Okay; I will see if I can't do that, cause if it was just a new key needed, I have a feeling that would cut down on the cost of that.

When I'm searching for a main relay, what part do I need to be looking for? Specifically a main relay, or am I searching for something more specific? And by basic tools, what do you mean? (While I know what I'm doing when it comes to tools, when it comes to cars, I'm a little more hesitant, but as previously stated, I have a family member that could probably do the work. I just want to make sure that I or he have the correct tools to do it before we start putting money into it.
Go to the acuralegendwiki.org and download the service manuals.

And it is just the "main relay". You can use the one for the '96 to '04 RL as well, although I think the mounting for it might be a little different. It's cheaper.

Acura of Augusta gives a discount to forum members if you go OEM.

The reason I recommended having the shop do it is because you can through it back in there face that they misdiagnosed the problem and charged you for parts you didn't need. In many states you have recourse against a business for that.

Once it's out, take it apart to be able to show the solder problem to the shop.
Go to the acuralegendwiki.org and download the service manuals.

And it is just the "main relay". You can use the one for the '96 to '04 RL as well, although I think the mounting for it might be a little different. It's cheaper.

Acura of Augusta gives a discount to forum members if you go OEM.

The reason I recommended having the shop do it is because you can through it back in there face that they misdiagnosed the problem and charged you for parts you didn't need. In many states you have recourse against a business for that.

Once it's out, take it apart to be able to show the solder problem to the shop.
Don't worry; I will be talking to the shop. I can't think that they meant to (potentially) screw up on this, but they've always treated me really well in the past (when the fuel pump wasn't the issue, they took it in for a few days and tested out some ideas and such for free) so I'm gonna give them the benefit of the doubt.

Okay, here's the next issue, and it was something I completely forgot to ask previously. Having the two door model, I have one door that the interior handle will not open but the exterior one will (passenger). The other door the interior handle will open and so will the exterior handle, but the interior handle is cracked almost at the bend so I have a quarter inch of room to open the door from the inside.

I figure the passenger side door is going to need to be replaced if I choose to put the work into it, but the driver side door might be easier to fix. If I can find a handle (I don't even know how feasible that is), is it a difficult process to replace just the handle when the door itself works just fine? Alternatively, does anyone have any suggestions on repairing it in some matter (as I don't have the other piece, just the handle that's remaining). I can provide pictures if necessary.

Thanks again for your help, guys.
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Go to the Acura Parts and download the service manuals.

And it is just the "main relay". You can use the one for the '96 to '04 RL as well, although I think the mounting for it might be a little different. It's cheaper.

Acura of Augusta gives a discount to forum members if you go OEM.

The reason I recommended having the shop do it is because you can through it back in there face that they misdiagnosed the problem and charged you for parts you didn't need. In many states you have recourse against a business for that.

Once it's out, take it apart to be able to show the solder problem to the shop.
+1 i like your suggestion now i where to get those so hard to find acura manuals.
i will also try that "acura of augusta" that you mentioned. not really that popular but if they give discounts then that will be nice.
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