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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
is it possible to "trick" the OEM head unit into running aftermarket 4 ohm rear speakers if its driven by a separate Alpine amplifier ?

I am talking about the Bose premium system. I don't want to tear the entire system out.
Thanks
 

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from what I remember, true Bose is 2ohm....which means the speaker wiring is also 2ohm...you have to run new speaker wire thats 4ohm....u really can't get away with it any other way without fucking things up in the long run
 

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If it's driven by a separate amp you should be able to do it.

There are two potential solutions. I believe the first I'm about to discuss is the "safer" because I don't know what the external Bose amp takes as input from the Bose head unit.

1. You could catch line level signal on the far side of the Bose amplifier and turn it into something your aftermarket amp can use with a Line Output Converter (or if your amp has line level input support, you could use that.)

2. Alternatively you can probably splice into the external Bose amp's input wiring to get pre-amp signal directly from the Bose head unit and feed that to your aftermarket amplifier.

Frankly, I think either solution is dirty but if it's a viable option (ie. the Bose head unit doesn't output at some ridiculous voltage that would burn up your amps input stage) I'd want to splice in to the Bose amp's inputs.

Of course, the best option hands down is a new head unit and a proper set of RCAs :)

from what I remember, true Bose is 2ohm....which means the speaker wiring is also 2ohm...you have to run new speaker wire thats 4ohm....u really can't get away with it any other way without fucking things up in the long run
Wiring has next to no resistance. The only problem you could run into with the wiring is if the speaker wiring is inadequately small and you feed it too much power (you'll burn it up, literally.)

I'm not sure how small the factory wiring is but as factory Bose stereo was 200Wx4 @ 2ohm it would translate to about 100W/speaker @ 4ohm (NOTE: these are PEAK numbers... not RMS) so an aftermarket amplifier would be restricted to something on that order unless you re-wire.
 

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Wiring has next to no resistance. The only problem you could run into with the wiring is if the speaker wiring is inadequately small and you feed it too much power (you'll burn it up, literally.)

I'm not sure how small the factory wiring is but as factory Bose stereo was 200Wx4 @ 2ohm it would translate to about 100W/speaker @ 4ohm (NOTE: these are PEAK numbers... not RMS) so an aftermarket amplifier would be restricted to something on that order unless you re-wire.
i'm no stereo afficionado, but from what I remember my 03 Maxima had 2ohm Bose from factory...when replacing with my Diamond Audio components, my installer told me factory wiring wouldn't hold the draw on the new components with the new amp....
 

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i'm no stereo afficionado, but from what I remember my 03 Maxima had 2ohm Bose from factory...when replacing with my Diamond Audio components, my installer told me factory wiring wouldn't hold the draw on the new components with the new amp....
I was not disputing the statement that the car may need to be rewired but instead my intent was to clarify why it might need to be and what would be required to avoid the situation.

I wanted to point that out because a) it's different on every car (Bose systems in both models or otherwise) and b) a LOT of installers will sell a buyer into re-wiring even when it is not necessary.

Now, it is entirely possible that my math is wrong above... ;-)
 

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I was not disputing the statement that the car may need to be rewired but instead my intent was to clarify why it might need to be and what would be required to avoid the situation.

I wanted to point that out because a) it's different on every car (Bose systems in both models or otherwise) and b) a LOT of installers will sell a buyer into re-wiring even when it is not necessary.
I understand completely....but I didn't have a store do this...I had the "then" audio moderator of Maxima Forums do the install for me... so it's not like he tried to screw me

as a matter of fact, he'll be doing my Legend if he's still into this stuff :lol: ;)
 

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Why do you want to do this?

Get replacement 2 ohm speakers if the rears are going bad
or
Replace the whole system if you want to upgrade; it will cost you under $500.

I found that a factory/aftermarket combo didn't sound as good as all factory or all aftermarket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone.

The stereo just lacks power for the rear speakers when driving on the highway with the windows and sunroof open. Just looking for a budget solution as I already have speakers and an amp, I wouldn't want to bother pulling everything out.
 

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I have two different kinds of Line Level Convertors lying around. All you need to do is connect the output from the HU to the LLC and connect the after market amp to the output of the LLC.

HU --> LLC --> aftermarket amp --- > 4ohm speaker

or you can also do

Factory AMP ---> LLC ---> aftermarket amp ---> 4ohm speakers

The LLC's allow you to change the output level from the HU or the factory amp to a level that is suitable for use with the aftermarket amp.

You can tap into the connections going into/out of the factory amp under the seats. I dont recommend removing the seats if you have a bad back. My shoulder is still f%^ked up from bypassing the amp a month ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Tony, do you have the Bose premium and an aftermarket amp ?

If you do, I would love to hear it.
(Something tells me you dont have the Bose premium)

I have two different kinds of Line Level Convertors lying around. All you need to do is connect the output from the HU to the LLC and connect the after market amp to the output of the LLC.

HU --> LLC --> aftermarket amp --- > 4ohm speaker

or you can also do

Factory AMP ---> LLC ---> aftermarket amp ---> 4ohm speakers

The LLC's allow you to change the output level from the HU or the factory amp to a level that is suitable for use with the aftermarket amp.

You can tap into the connections going into/out of the factory amp under the seats. I dont recommend removing the seats if you have a bad back. My shoulder is still f%^ked up from bypassing the amp a month ago.
 

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I understand completely....but I didn't have a store do this...I had the "then" audio moderator of Maxima Forums do the install for me... so it's not like he tried to screw me

as a matter of fact, he'll be doing my Legend if he's still into this stuff :lol: ;)
i'm no stereo afficionado, but from what I remember my 03 Maxima had 2ohm Bose from factory...when replacing with my Diamond Audio components, my installer told me factory wiring wouldn't hold the draw on the new components with the new amp....
OT: But the '96+ Nissans with Bose operated at 1ohm....so it was worth it on the install to just throw in new wiring too...I did the same thing on my Infiniti...

Why do you want to do this?

Get replacement 2 ohm speakers if the rears are going bad
or
Replace the whole system if you want to upgrade; it will cost you under $500.

I found that a factory/aftermarket combo didn't sound as good as all factory or all aftermarket.
:werd:
+1
 

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I used to have a Bose Premium. Previously, I had an aftermarket HU hooked up to the factory Bose Premium amp and speakers via an LLC. Then replaced the aftermarket HU with a JVC HU and hooked it up without an LLC, as I was able to change the output level of the HU on the HU itself. Now I have the JVC hooked up to Pioneer speakers; removed the factory amp completely.

A number of people are running the set up you're looking at, but they use the additional amp to drive a sub-woofer. To get an idea before you do the install, unplug the wires going into the rear speakers, connect the wires to an LLC and take the output from the LLC and connect it to your amp+speakers. You can run a long wire from the amp to the battery and see how this set up work out for you. If you don't think its worth the effort then you can unplug everything and go back to stock.
 
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