It's done! HOW TO including wiring!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My auto to 5 speed took about 15 hours. My total costs were $310.00. Everything works including cruise control, reverse, etc. I don't have a check engine light or codes at the motor computer, although I have a 1,2,7,8 at the tranny computer. I left the auto wiring in and just modified it and ran a line to the tranny for reverse. I swapped all of the mounts as well and discovered my fron mount is torn. The only snag was the intermediate shaft, it wouldn't bolt in without binding so I had to grind the bracket until it fit. I had to adjust my clutch pedal a lot so that it worked right. I have about 50 miles on the tranny and so far so good. For those considering the swap your cost is going to depend on your source of parts. I got mine used from the wrecking yard at a good deal and bought the clutch disc new. You will need the manual flywheel, clutch, fron motor mount brackets 2 pieces, starter bolts, flywheel and clutch bolts, throw out bearing, master and slave cylinders, clutch damper and hoses, clutch pedal assembly and brake pedal, 5' of wire, shift linkage, knob, and boot, and brackets, and 2 days for the job. For the nuetral safety switch wire the thick black with whtie stripe wires together. send the yellow and green with black stripe to the tranny reverse switch, take the switch apart and you will see 6 small metal contacts with another longer metal contact that is the length of 3 or 4 small contacts. This longer contact is connected to a small black wire connect it to the green wire that is across from it when looking at the contacts. Cut the rest of the wire and cap them with tape. Cut the wires going to the S3/S4 switch and cap them also, do the same to the wires for the shift lock solenoid. What this does is allow the vehicle to start normally with the clutch in, reverse light to work, and cruise control to work because the car thinks it is in drive. Now remove the bottom plastic panel from the steering collumn and cut and cap the wires going to the ignition switch solenoid that prevents the key from being remove while the car is in any other gear except park. Make sure you cut the right wires !!! What this does is allows the key to be removed. It isn't possible otherwise because the solenoid prevents the lock cylinder from turning fully counter clockwise for key removal while the car is in drive and we have already permanently wired the car in drive. I did the best I could for wire colors but I forgot a few of them. A factory service manual will help with the mechanical part of the swap and at least a chilton repair manual is required. What is nice about pulling your own parts from a wrecked car is seeing just how they were installed and also provides nuts and bolts needed. Yes, the car is fast now with my cold air intake and 2.25" exhaust.
