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Discussion Starter #1
Have any of you guys also had a little bit of valve noise soon after starting your Legend? I have about 310,000 miles on my car (87 sedan 5speed) and i think i have heard you can adjust the valves to correct this problem. It is not extremely loud, and it does go away as the car warms up. I love this car and I do not want that to be the downfall of it. It definately seems to get worse as i get toward the end of my oil change cycle. Another thing to ad is that i am about a half hour south of canada in Minnesota, so its damn cold up here all the time.
 

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Canada's not always THAT cold !!! LOL

That is fairly normal... I had that sound on my 1990 L sedan and the dealer told me that it is one of the hydraulic lifters (odd to me as it is an OHC engine, but correct). It seems that it is a very common problem and is not detrimental (it just doesn't open the valve very far until it pumps up) A lot of people I have seen on the forums have used "Resore" and other cleaning products with success. Some have even put Auto tranny fluid through the engine for about 20 miles before they change the oil. I had good luck with using 0W50 Castrol Syntec as I wanted a lighter oil for start up here in BC, Canada for the winter and a nice thick oil when it heats up and is running at 5000 rpm (I usually shift at about 6000).

So don't worry too much, just use some good cleaning additives and hopefully you will cure the problem so you can enjoy the sound !!:D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Or how about LACK of sound mike??? Do you think its a valve adjustment problem? or a sticky lifter? Im just at my oil change time now, so anybody out there who feels strongly about an engine cleaner, advertize to me now cause ill probably use it... I was kinda worried about using syntec after 300,000 miles on normal oil...
 

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Try a low viscosity such as the 5w-30 or lower if available. Also, use a top quality oil filter. In fact, try an Acura filter on this oil change and see what happens. Also heard Restore helps.

Also, synthetic oil likely to help but I understand your concerns. I have a 90 w/ only 104k miles and I'm nervous about switching. That is something to do after you try everything else and then do with a leap of faith.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you DO switch to synthetic, can you switch back? I do have 300k on the car, so how much life could there possibly be left?? Its an extremely nice car. This and the fact that the front driver seat leather is tearing up and i had to put on some sheepskin covers are the only problems with the car.
 

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Synthetic

Some people DO notice more oil seepage from switching from regular to synthetic. Mostly from dried seals and the thinner oil sneaking by them. It's up to you.. The only thing I noticed leaking so far (running synthetic for almost a year) were my side cover gaskets... Took me a whole 25 minutes to remove, clean and re-install... One thing I've heard is that if you switch to synthetic and it leaks, it will still leak when you switch back. Seems that the synthetic cleans the seal...

I would DEFINATELY run some sort of cleaner EVERY time I do an oil change... Doesn't hurt and is fairly cheap insurance against crap. I use STP, but there are many good ones avail. I also use "Restore" every time...

I would NOT adjust the valves as they are meant to "pump" up and if you adjust them when they aren't moving, you may make it too tight when they are thereby leaving your valves open too long or all the time (depending on how tight) and could be detrimental to the valves and general running of the car.

The answer I got from my dealer was that the lifter was probably clogged and just needed to be cleaned out, so all I did and it worked for me... I've got 216,000 kms on my car and no problems now...It was noisy when I bought it at 201,000...

Sorry it's so long, but I hope that helps...
 

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This kind of valve train noise is normal and is a chronic "problem" with these engines, so I'm told.

You can go ahead and adjust the exhaust valves if you like. At least that way, you're eliminating half of possible sources of the noise. Make sure you follow the instructions in the shop manual.

Engine cleaners are OK to use, but some here have reported only temporary relief. I use Berryman B-12 Chemtool.
 

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Oil woes

Before you switch from reg to synthetic you need to do a flush. That removes a lot of junk from the engine and gives you a fresh palatte to work with. It doesn't cost much (here about $20) and it will eliminate any problems of switching weights and/or types of oil. I personally run 5w/30 Royal Purple, but you don't have to go as expensive if you don't want to. RP runs $6.50 a qt here, but a good alt. would be Mobil One about $4.25 a qt. Your decision. Good luck.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
paulo57509

Hey Paulo, do you really have an 87 5speed sedan with 310,000 miles? thats almost EXACTLY the same as me, maybe i have about 10k less miles. Do you have a pic of yours? Heres a pic of mine after like 14 Minnesota winters. Btw i have been paging thru my acura factory service manual, and i cant find for the life of me the procedure for adjusting valves.....

 

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I would recommend trying some engine restore of Marvel Mystery Oil before you mess with the exhaust valve adjustment - not that said adjustment seems difficult but why bother if you can just dump some stuff in the oil? It made a huge difference with my 86 with 240K on it.
 

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Re: paulo57509

GeeNick said:
Hey Paulo, do you really have an 87 5speed sedan with 310,000 miles? thats almost EXACTLY the same as me, maybe i have about 10k less miles. Do you have a pic of yours? Heres a pic of mine after like 14 Minnesota winters. Btw i have been paging thru my acura factory service manual, and i cant find for the life of me the procedure for adjusting valves.....

GeeNick...very clean 4-door! I know those winters can be harsh. I lived in Montana for three years...BURRRR.

Yes, my coupe has around 310,510 miles. I drive it a minumum of 600 miles a week. Engine has never been apart, aside from having the oil level sensor replaced, gasket and seal replacements, timing belts and other maintenance items. It uses 1 quart of oil every 4500 miles (I change oil and filter every 5000).

I was thinking of taking pic, but I haven't washed the car in over two months. It's been real wet here in CA lately; I'll just wait until everything dries up.

The valve adjustment procedure should be someplace in the engine section of the manual. IIRC, it's in the engine reassembly portion of that section.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
not to brag, but i paid $400 for the sedan!!! All it needed at the time of purchase was plug wires and an O2 sensor :) high mileage can REALLY drive the price down on a car!!
 

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You STOLE the car !!! Congratulations !! Have you tried quieting it down yet ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
no, im waiting on a paycheck before i can even drive it :) im a poor student... Plus i would like it to be over 5 degrees outside before i wanna work on it!
 

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I understand that !!! No fun freezing to death as you try to repair anything...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i'd brag too!!

yours is WAAAAAAAY nicer... if you see the picture of mine; it has rust over both of the back wheels.... that is a product of 14 minnesota winters (salt baths)... id rather do engine work than have a crappy body!!!
 

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Tappet Noise
I have waged war on tappet noise since I got the car (with extreme prejudice). I have found flushing at home with every change and using PTFE treatments very useful. OEM Honda oil in Australia is not honda oil, so I had to shop around for a decent drop and found Anglomoil 5W30 semisynthetic, which has been fantastic. Oem Filters also a must. I left out the flush on my last change as my oil dude said by now the ****e would be out of the engine - we were wrong, and the tappet noise comes back occasionally on cold starts, So I would definately flush.
I do mostly city driving and for perfectly quiet operation I change my oil every 5000 Kms.
 

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GeeNick said:
not to brag, but i paid $400 for the sedan!!!
I got my coupe for FREE. Well, not quite....it cost me two one-way airline tickets to Seattle.

:D
 

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With all the complaints about tappet noise, I wonder if it would be worth the time and effort to just remove and clean the varnish, etc. off of them the next time the timing belt needs to be replaced?
 
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