Well yeah usually when the HC is high a new Cat will clear that right up....the sad part is that you failed by only 1 PPM!!! Was that at 15 or 25 mph? If it comes down to getting a new cat...get a generic Honda one, or you could a get a universal High Flow off ebay for cheap and then just have a shop install it if you cant do it yourself...your looking at $80 at the most being spent....

 

Also...i know you did a tune up and all, but did you also run the car at highway speed before the test? what octane gas were you using (and what brand?) have you used any additives lately to clean up the fuel system? good luck man!

 

I know it sucks... HC test failed @15mph, HC passed @25mph it's 42ppm just above average of 20ppm (HydroCarbon maximum for 25mph test is 86ppm)...
Used Shell regular unleaded and yes I regularly used fuel additives. I live in the south side of OC towards San Diego area, drove across town at highway speed to get my smog test done... ebay-ing now for cat! thanks Sam...

 

My suggestion:

Before you replace a cat, first set your timing to factory specs (in Cali you fail if your timing is off, even if your tailpipe emissions are OK), and clear the code 14 issue. I'm betting that will take care of it.

 

Timing is computer controlled and this unit itself is sealed... cleaned TB, removed and cleaned idle screw (sprayed screw hole as well), checked throttle linkage then reset ECU, code 14 cleared but timing still too high @20 degrees.

Tried adjusting idle speed but adjustment screw is already pegged to the right, rpm stays constant at 1500 but when i rev the engine and release the gas pedal rpm drops down to normal then it races back up to 1500 with in a few seconds, did this sequence numerous times with same results, looking into EACU...

 

Hmmm there are ways to cheat. Like if your cars nox is too high u can dump some isopropolene alcolhol into the tank. That will lower the combustion chamber thus lowering nox. If your HC is high. U can attempt to superheat the cat before your next smog check. Drive the car around the block few times on really low gear then quickly bring it in for the smog. It will burn up the HCs better. Specialy if your only off by 1 u will definiately pass.

When u got your car smogged was it in the morning. If your car was not fully warmed up that could be the problem.

 

Smog test was done in the afternoon... no more than 5minutes my car is in the service bay gettin smog, couldn't ask for more ideal situation to "getherdone"...

Ditto with EACV, again with ECU controlling all vacuum functions and 1can of break cleaner gone I didn't get a single hit, that tells me my system is airtight. Also, EACV is proportional to coolant temperature which checked out OK... still huntin!

 

Update on my progress in searching the cause of high rpm, thus hoping to fix my ever slightly high emission of hydrocarbon... by a lousy 1 people!

Started by checking intake manifold mounting for vacuum leak then flushed/air bleed cooling system, replaced thermostat as well as TW sensor, also removed/cleaned thermovalve, removed/cleaned egr valve including the pipe, removed/cleaned fast idle valve... man I'm tired I needed a break!!!

So I start her up and see if I somehow addressed my high rpm issue up to this point, it sarted normal with high rpm @1800 but as she warms up the idle started pulsating from 800-1800 rpm and then my check engine light came on, code 14 EIC/EACV, did not want to mess with this again, reset ECU, check engine went away but pulsating remains.

Called up local dealerships for new EACV and they want $265+tax, wound up cleaning EACV for the 2nd time, reinstalled it to no avail... Mother itch!

Note that all other valves/check valves, solenoid valves, sensors and regulators were checked prior to all this procedures...

I'm thinkin my EGR valve is going south...

 

Timing is computer controlled and this unit itself is sealed...

Not entirely true: http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/LegendCoupe/62sg000/5-9.pdf

On my 2.5, you can still adjust timing by loosening the distributor and rotating it. On 2.7s it appears to be a bit more complicated...

 

Thanks rafto for the link, I'll be drilling out those two revits to gain access into the timing adjustment unit... on my 2.7, distributor is fixed with one(1) hold down bolt!

 

Finally PASSED smog test... thanks for all the recommendations!!!

The main culprit for my pulsating idle was the EIC/EACV, my EGR valve turns out to be fine. Did not want to purchase a replacement part from the dealer but wound up doing it anyway, also tried few things before coughing up the big bucks with same recurring idle problem, changed top and bottom orings, even went to the junkyard pick-up EIC/EACV from the same year model car to no avail.

By addressing this problem, timing pretty much fixed it self. Re-checked before smog retest and its dead on @15.0 degrees BTDC.

Also ended up replacing my cat, since she has 250K miles on her.

 

Pnoye2,
Just had the thought that the acetone thing we were discussing in the other thread said HC emmisions were reduced by up to 60%.

 

Yah, I know KAHruzer... stay'd up late lastnight "googling and searching". I'm in the semiconductor industry and work with this solvent in a daily basis, I know the toxic and the long term (chronic) affects to humans.

Strangely enough, from what I've read so far its all about the pluses and the benefits, NOT much of the negatives or downfall, good outwieghs bad significantly, if you go to the link the one I've mentioned on the other thread "Directory:Acetone as a fuel additive-PESWiki" they even have a chart for all the cars they've tested them with.

Am still waiting from my friend that works for ARCO to spell the beans, hang tight...

 

I read the link. One Acura Integra with reduced gas mileage.

Looking forward to your friends' observations.

 

i know this sounds stupid but, what is a cat? ive heard yall talking about them and i have wondered what it is

 

i know this sounds stupid but, what is a cat? ive heard yall talking about them and i have wondered what it is

We are reffering to the CATALYTIC CONVERTER (aka; cat)

 

Yah, I know KAHruzer... stay'd up late lastnight "googling and searching". I'm in the semiconductor industry and work with this solvent in a daily basis, I know the toxic and the long term (chronic) affects to humans.

Strangely enough, from what I've read so far its all about the pluses and the benefits, NOT much of the negatives or downfall, good outwieghs bad significantly, if you go to the link the one I've mentioned on the other thread "Directory:Acetone as a fuel additive-PESWiki" they even have a chart for all the cars they've tested them with.

Am still waiting from my friend that works for ARCO to spell the beans, hang tight...

Any update on this?

 

you dont know what a cat is? you stick a kitten in your exhaust pipes and eventually it grows into a full sized cat. it lives on the harmfull gasses from your engine and poops out safe ones
hahahahah rofl

 

Where is the EGR on this car? I have a 1987 Legend Sedan.
Im sweating smog now. Ive cleaned up another problem with the Throttle Position sensor. Just changed plugs, air cleaner, wires, and that kind of stuff. Now looking for the EGR to check it. I looked in Haynes and it show how to test it with vacuum. I followed the Tee line and it disappears down below. Is that where its located? Where is that thing? Im used to seeing an odd oval looking thing as was on my old mazda truck sticking out in the open. Its nothing more than a check valve of sorts designed to open at different pressures, right?
So do I add alcohol, acetone or ? to my tank and how much do I add.
Help me guys, I hate this *^**^%* smog. I try to take care of this car but Im really hurting to pay for it right now so I need some advice.
Thanks

 

Any update on this?

My apologies to all for NOT updating the status on this; "Acetone as a fuel additive", I've mentioned that I have a chemist friend who work for Atlantic Rich Company "ARCO" oil refinery... well, it was a dead end, it's PROPRIETARY information or simply means "held under a patent" and leaking any information to us the consumer could cause some issue(s) so I decided to just dropped the subject and not pursue it any further...

jmrec100... check your pm!

 

Thanks Pnoye2 for the help. And cigaretteman and the other guys too. Not to leave anyone out.
I tracked down the old code problem #7, throttle position/angle sensor. It was a bad connector. The last guy that worked on it replaced my throttle body assembly. In the process, he broke the mate on the harness and it slipped off enough to make an intermittent connection. It looked ok because it was wrapped in electrical tape. When I pulled it off, I was able to push it in. For now, I rubber banded the connector together and taped it. When I finish the smog for this car, Ill replace the connector. Not a major job except to find the mating connector. Shouldn't be too hard.
Second problem popped up. I was running the car on the freeway to burn put the old junk in the fule system etc... to get it ready to smog. When I stopped and let it idle, after about 4 to 5 minutes, code 8 showed. Haynes says its the TDC Position (crank angle) code. I asked earlier on this board and cigaretteman I think it was referred it as the distributor. It happens only at idle for 4 to 5 minutes. Its idling around 500 to 600 rpm per the tach gauge. It idles smooth too. When I turn off the car, restart it, no code error until 4 or 5 minutes later. I was going to try setting the idle at 750 rpm. I looked for the tag under the hood for what the idle setting is but couldn't find it. Other than replacing the distributor, is there something else I could do? It runs well. When I step on the gas, it reacts . Steps down a gear right away and takes off. Ill replace the distributor if I need to but would like to be able to run the smog test first without the trouble code and go from there. If I can smog first, then I will take car of the needed things. Im less stressed now knowing that these problems are being taken care of. Im starting to love this car. Want to get this smogged and then Ill work on getting this car back into good shape physically as well. It needs paint. Its peeling. Thanks for your help.

 

sure the code 8 isnt refering to the sensor behind the timing belt pulley on the front. This went bad in my car and i replaced it with a used one and the code never came back. Its a pain to do but if you got the right skills you can do this without removing the belt off all the pulleys.

 

One more question? Is the EGR in the control box on the firewall , drivers side?

 

I was told #8 is in the distributor by one of the guys here at the forum. Mine's a 1988 Legend Sedan. Ill check. If I can find it, I can replace it.

 

Strange it comes on ONLY at idle.