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pnoye2

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Functional Test Failed:
Timing too advanced @20 degrees (BTDC @15)
Hydrocarbon (HC) @113, MAX allowed @112..... :(
Diagnostic checked, code 14 (EIC) came up on the ECU.

Checked old threads for code 14 and 1hot posted similar issue he's having with his car 'bout few months back, also mentioned EACU. Car is doing the tach dance as well, TPS maybe?. Smog Technician suggested new cat!

Full tune up performed prior to smog test, replaced all screen in the emission control box too.

She's all stock and pushing 250K miles, still running strong I might add.
Any suggestions, comments or concerns are ALL welcome.

Thank you all in advance...
 
Well yeah usually when the HC is high a new Cat will clear that right up....the sad part is that you failed by only 1 PPM!!! Was that at 15 or 25 mph? If it comes down to getting a new cat...get a generic Honda one, or you could a get a universal High Flow off ebay for cheap and then just have a shop install it if you cant do it yourself...your looking at $80 at the most being spent....
 
Also...i know you did a tune up and all, but did you also run the car at highway speed before the test? what octane gas were you using (and what brand?) have you used any additives lately to clean up the fuel system? good luck man!
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I know it sucks... HC test failed @15mph, HC passed @25mph it's 42ppm just above average of 20ppm (HydroCarbon maximum for 25mph test is 86ppm)...
Used Shell regular unleaded and yes I regularly used fuel additives. I live in the south side of OC towards San Diego area, drove across town at highway speed to get my smog test done... ebay-ing now for cat! thanks Sam...
 
My suggestion:

Before you replace a cat, first set your timing to factory specs (in Cali you fail if your timing is off, even if your tailpipe emissions are OK), and clear the code 14 issue. I'm betting that will take care of it.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Timing is computer controlled and this unit itself is sealed... cleaned TB, removed and cleaned idle screw (sprayed screw hole as well), checked throttle linkage then reset ECU, code 14 cleared but timing still too high @20 degrees.

Tried adjusting idle speed but adjustment screw is already pegged to the right, rpm stays constant at 1500 but when i rev the engine and release the gas pedal rpm drops down to normal then it races back up to 1500 with in a few seconds, did this sequence numerous times with same results, looking into EACU...
 
Hmmm there are ways to cheat. Like if your cars nox is too high u can dump some isopropolene alcolhol into the tank. That will lower the combustion chamber thus lowering nox. If your HC is high. U can attempt to superheat the cat before your next smog check. Drive the car around the block few times on really low gear then quickly bring it in for the smog. It will burn up the HCs better. Specialy if your only off by 1 u will definiately pass.

When u got your car smogged was it in the morning. If your car was not fully warmed up that could be the problem.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Smog test was done in the afternoon... no more than 5minutes my car is in the service bay gettin smog, couldn't ask for more ideal situation to "getherdone"...

Ditto with EACV, again with ECU controlling all vacuum functions and 1can of break cleaner gone I didn't get a single hit, that tells me my system is airtight. Also, EACV is proportional to coolant temperature which checked out OK... still huntin!
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Update on my progress in searching the cause of high rpm, thus hoping to fix my ever slightly high emission of hydrocarbon... by a lousy 1 people!

Started by checking intake manifold mounting for vacuum leak then flushed/air bleed cooling system, replaced thermostat as well as TW sensor, also removed/cleaned thermovalve, removed/cleaned egr valve including the pipe, removed/cleaned fast idle valve... man I'm tired I needed a break!!!

So I start her up and see if I somehow addressed my high rpm issue up to this point, it sarted normal with high rpm @1800 but as she warms up the idle started pulsating from 800-1800 rpm and then my check engine light came on, code 14 EIC/EACV, did not want to mess with this again, reset ECU, check engine went away but pulsating remains.

Called up local dealerships for new EACV and they want $265+tax, wound up cleaning EACV for the 2nd time, reinstalled it to no avail... Mother itch!

Note that all other valves/check valves, solenoid valves, sensors and regulators were checked prior to all this procedures...

I'm thinkin my EGR valve is going south...
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Thanks rafto for the link, I'll be drilling out those two revits to gain access into the timing adjustment unit... on my 2.7, distributor is fixed with one(1) hold down bolt!
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Finally PASSED smog test... thanks for all the recommendations!!!

The main culprit for my pulsating idle was the EIC/EACV, my EGR valve turns out to be fine. Did not want to purchase a replacement part from the dealer but wound up doing it anyway, also tried few things before coughing up the big bucks with same recurring idle problem, changed top and bottom orings, even went to the junkyard pick-up EIC/EACV from the same year model car to no avail.

By addressing this problem, timing pretty much fixed it self. Re-checked before smog retest and its dead on @15.0 degrees BTDC.

Also ended up replacing my cat, since she has 250K miles on her.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Yah, I know KAHruzer... stay'd up late lastnight "googling and searching". I'm in the semiconductor industry and work with this solvent in a daily basis, I know the toxic and the long term (chronic) affects to humans.

Strangely enough, from what I've read so far its all about the pluses and the benefits, NOT much of the negatives or downfall, good outwieghs bad significantly, if you go to the link the one I've mentioned on the other thread "Directory:Acetone as a fuel additive-PESWiki" they even have a chart for all the cars they've tested them with.

Am still waiting from my friend that works for ARCO to spell the beans, hang tight...
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
iloveshanemacg3 said:
i know this sounds stupid but, what is a cat? ive heard yall talking about them and i have wondered what it is
We are reffering to the CATALYTIC CONVERTER (aka; cat) :)
 
pnoye2 said:
Yah, I know KAHruzer... stay'd up late lastnight "googling and searching". I'm in the semiconductor industry and work with this solvent in a daily basis, I know the toxic and the long term (chronic) affects to humans.

Strangely enough, from what I've read so far its all about the pluses and the benefits, NOT much of the negatives or downfall, good outwieghs bad significantly, if you go to the link the one I've mentioned on the other thread "Directory:Acetone as a fuel additive-PESWiki" they even have a chart for all the cars they've tested them with.

Am still waiting from my friend that works for ARCO to spell the beans, hang tight...
Any update on this?
 
Where is the EGR on this car? I have a 1987 Legend Sedan.
Im sweating smog now. Ive cleaned up another problem with the Throttle Position sensor. Just changed plugs, air cleaner, wires, and that kind of stuff. Now looking for the EGR to check it. I looked in Haynes and it show how to test it with vacuum. I followed the Tee line and it disappears down below. Is that where its located? Where is that thing? Im used to seeing an odd oval looking thing as was on my old mazda truck sticking out in the open. Its nothing more than a check valve of sorts designed to open at different pressures, right?
So do I add alcohol, acetone or ? to my tank and how much do I add.
Help me guys, I hate this *^**^%* smog. I try to take care of this car but Im really hurting to pay for it right now so I need some advice.
Thanks
 
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