Acura Legend Forum banner
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
Discussion starter · #21 ·
jmm67 said:
Any update on this?
My apologies to all for NOT updating the status on this; "Acetone as a fuel additive", I've mentioned that I have a chemist friend who work for Atlantic Rich Company "ARCO" oil refinery... well, it was a dead end, it's PROPRIETARY information or simply means "held under a patent" and leaking any information to us the consumer could cause some issue(s) so I decided to just dropped the subject and not pursue it any further... :(

jmrec100... check your pm!
 
Thanks Pnoye2 for the help. And cigaretteman and the other guys too. Not to leave anyone out.
I tracked down the old code problem #7, throttle position/angle sensor. It was a bad connector. The last guy that worked on it replaced my throttle body assembly. In the process, he broke the mate on the harness and it slipped off enough to make an intermittent connection. It looked ok because it was wrapped in electrical tape. When I pulled it off, I was able to push it in. For now, I rubber banded the connector together and taped it. When I finish the smog for this car, Ill replace the connector. Not a major job except to find the mating connector. Shouldn't be too hard.
Second problem popped up. I was running the car on the freeway to burn put the old junk in the fule system etc... to get it ready to smog. When I stopped and let it idle, after about 4 to 5 minutes, code 8 showed. Haynes says its the TDC Position (crank angle) code. I asked earlier on this board and cigaretteman I think it was referred it as the distributor. It happens only at idle for 4 to 5 minutes. Its idling around 500 to 600 rpm per the tach gauge. It idles smooth too. When I turn off the car, restart it, no code error until 4 or 5 minutes later. I was going to try setting the idle at 750 rpm. I looked for the tag under the hood for what the idle setting is but couldn't find it. Other than replacing the distributor, is there something else I could do? It runs well. When I step on the gas, it reacts . Steps down a gear right away and takes off. Ill replace the distributor if I need to but would like to be able to run the smog test first without the trouble code and go from there. If I can smog first, then I will take car of the needed things. Im less stressed now knowing that these problems are being taken care of. Im starting to love this car. Want to get this smogged and then Ill work on getting this car back into good shape physically as well. It needs paint. Its peeling. Thanks for your help.
 
sure the code 8 isnt refering to the sensor behind the timing belt pulley on the front. This went bad in my car and i replaced it with a used one and the code never came back. Its a pain to do but if you got the right skills you can do this without removing the belt off all the pulleys.
 
the egr control valve is in the box on the driver side. sorry about the mis-information, mine was a code 4. it is in the distributer. on the code 8, check for resistance in the white/blue orange/blue wire coming out of the dist. there should be 500-1000 ohms of resistance ... if not ... reaplace the sensor.
 
I was just reading that in Haynes. I haven't looked at my car yet but it looks like I CAN replace just the sensor without replacing the whole distributor. That's Good news. That makes life a little easier. Probably expensive little guy. Ill check mine in the morning and if it reads bad, Ill probably run up to a yard tomorrow with a multimeter and look around. Then check a dealer monday. If that checks out ok, any other thing to look at?
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
jmrec100 said:
One more question? Is the EGR in the control box on the firewall , drivers side?
NO! EGR valve isn't in the emission control box... just follow vacuum hose #11 from the black box and it'll lead you to the EGR valve, right below the distributor... :)

Yes... 1986-90 Legend uses ONLY a TDC position sensor (code 8) within the distributor, and the CRANK angle (code 4) and CYLINDER position (code 9) sensors are located behind camshaft pulleys on the left or front bank cylinders.

Try resetting the ECU by pulling Alt. sense fuse (7.5A) in the underhood fuse and relay panel for at least 10 seconds then reinstall, start the car and see if it clears any fault code.
 
damnit ... the control valve is in the box ... thats what i said ... and its true ... just mis-interpreted the information. sorry guys!
 
I did pull the fuse. It does reset and clear the fault code. Then I run it for 10 minutes on the freeway. Afterwards, to simulate sitting at the smog test, I let it sit still at idle (It's idling around 500-600rpm on the dash tach gauge). After about 4 to 5 minutes, the code 8 comes on. Only at idle. It doesn't show any other time. I turn off the car, start it up again, no check engine light but the fault code is there. Instant smog failure.
 
I just looked under the distributor. Is it the silver can thing with a wire coming out of it? Im assuming this is the electrical sensor part? The valve under it is the EGR valve? Right?
So if that's it, to clean it is how?
Remove the screws, pull the valve and spray it with a cleaner ? Then somewhere I read on this board about running a wire down it? Is that right. The tube it mounts to is VERTICAL? So I run a wire in it and pull up and out what junk is in it?
 
21 - 32 of 32 Posts