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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys,

I got this legend 92, with several little problems at a deal price. I have 68 K miles on it , though I sincerely doubt it is really 68 K. Its 10 yr old car and the lawyer who sold it to me has had it for so long commuting VA Fairfax to Wash DC downtown.

Anyway, i have a problem with my legend that i think I should be able to fix if I could diagnose.

The engine temp needle stays at full cold after driving for a long time even. But if I stop and turn the engine off and turn it up again, then the needles comes up slowly to the temp it should be showing. I dont mind the temp needle to be wrong but for the fact that I suspect that the radioator circulation is not happening, and i am sitting in a cold car blowing cold air at me when the engine is warm.

Just a thermostat? or anything more? MAy be a temp sensor? But if its temp sensor, I should get warm air out of my vents.. Also, how do i change my thermostat, given that the Hanes manual I bough on ebay has not arrived yet. 92 legend ls.

Thanks:p

PS. Looking for used rear speakers for the bose system on the 92 LEgend LS
 

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Congrats on the purchase!

McKenzie - isn't this problem right up your alley?

KNLNGUS.

I have some advice for you - but I don't want to send you barking up the wrong tree.

My guage was reporting incorrect temperatures and my problem rested in two areas.... 1 the relay was bad , 2 alot of debris formed in the connector housing on the temperature sending unit.

I would handle this with my HELM (not hanes) - as I enjoy the diagnostic procedures in the HELM.

I do now that you have 2 temp sensors in your cabin - one behind the Air temp cluster and one to the left of the AC Filter. I believe the temp sensor by the blower indirectly controls flow into the heater core.

I feel like a blind man walking in an unfamiliar room

Need Help, Mckenzie, Legendz4life, Dave C????

KNLNGUS,
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
do sensors open the collant to heater core?

I am assuming that the problem is not temp sensor alone, while I agree the temp sensor is bad.

Logically, the temp sensor is on the warm side of thermostat as it has to show boil over. Which means that even if the thermostat is not working, it should show reading properly. The fact that i cant get heat in the cabin, means the fluid is not going to heater core, which is in series with radiator? OR , in this car.. is it controlled by some kinda electornics that if that sensor doesnt register nice heat, it wouldnt let the flow to heater core?

Anyway, computer programmers dont make good car mechanics.. Pardon my ignorance.

Bose radio with blown rear speakers is next in line for fixes.

Thank you

Logikman (aka programmer)
 

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I took a look at my HELM manual and your possible causes are...

innoperative temperature sending unit, providing the guage and heater control unit with innacurate core temp.

Heater control valve innoperative. This valve electronically controls radiator fluid entering or bypassing the heater core.

Selectric cable (looks like this cable provides information to the heater control valve based upon your temperature selection)

thermostat not opening

blockage in heater core.

low radiator fluid.

After talking to my friend at Acura, and in answer to your specific question, yes - 3 relays and 3 temperature sensors (one in the radiator, 2 in the cabin) control the climate system which activates the air conditioning or heating system (fluid in the heater core).

KNLNGUS

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Narrowing down on possibilities

Thank you so much for your helping hand and sincere attempt to solve my problem. I guess, if the help I can get in the forum is this good, I will attempt to diagnose and fix it myself.....

The possibilities associated with inoperative temp control equipment in cabin may not be valid as I stop and restart engine etc., the darn thing blows hot air, even without fidgeting the controls. I really dont think it is climate controls issue as the a/c and other temp setting etc., are completely operable and working when my heater gage is normal.

I guess, I need to place my hand on radiator and see if it is warming up or not when the gage is at the bottom and again when the gage is operating normal.

Also, can you help me locate which relay to pull , and I will test it out if there is another identical relay in the car, by swapping them.:confused:

Thank you once agian for the help
 

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sorry that I am late...knlgus is right...
however, a quick, unscientific way to determine this is to feel your upper and lower radiator hoses. If that upper hose is still cool to the touch after normal driving, it is very possible that your thermostat is inop. Get one from NAPA for <$20

Go for the easy stuff first ;)
Sucks to buy TEmp Sending units and no fix...Dealer will CHARGE you $$$$$ to diagnose this one...so keep us informed, and lets see if we can help.

Let's start with the thermostat..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thermostat iis the 1st step...

I checked today when it ws showing flat on the heater needle. Sure enought the upper radiator hose was warm and the lower hose was just a tad bi warm, not hot like the top one. I cheked after turning the engine off and on again until the needle moved, and oddly enough, it was warm at both hoses. What baffles me is that why I had to turn off and turn on the car to get the heater needle working

thermostat needs to be replaced for sure. Also, guys, is it hard to replace brake disk and pads on the front for the 92 LEg LS?

Thanks all Gurus

Logikman
 

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logikman, congrats on finding the problem!

LeGeNdZ_4_LiFe, thanks for stepping up to da plate.

IMHO, it is not difficult at all to do this work. Make sure your vehicle is adequately supported (jack stands) and that you have the necessary tools. Although a torque wrench is not needed - I highly recommend you use one. I can email you with the torque specs tommorrow - or perhaps our someone might have ready access to their HELM manual and can give you the specs.

I would recommend doing the Brembo swap if you are replacing your rotors (aka discs) and also buying metal master pads - but you should be able to get off pretty cheap buying OE type / new rotors from your local parts store.

A small tip....

If you find that your rotors do not come off the hub unit AFTER you remove the two phillips head screws that secure it on the hub (these were used to secure the rotor while on the assembly line), slap it good, if that doesn't work - then take one of the bolts off of the cross bar in your engine bay and use it to screw into the existing (but different than the screw) holes to remove it from the hub.

KNLNGUS
 

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I think my problem is similar to this.
but on top of what is happaning, the needle will be at normal operationg temp then under light driving the needle shoots up then i gotta floor it for it to come back down.

The dealer told me i had air in the cooling system so i bled it and it still happend so i told the dealer again they said that i need new head gaskets. ($2000 job)
 

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Legendary LS

you are encountering a problem that could be ....

low coolant all the way up to YES, a HG problem.

To be honest with you... my guage was doing the same thing that you describe, however, my problem was in that the temp sensor responsible for sending info to the relay to kick the fans on was corroded and filled with debris inside the connector. The relay also crapped the bed.

I paid the 79 to have Acura diagnose the problem cause sometimes a cooling issue can work your last nerve. As if you don't have enough stress on the job and from your skirt - you get to deal with your pride and joy acting up.

Acura took an air reading of the vapors from the radiator - resulting in no HG problem. this test is simple in that they unscrew your cap - put a special cap on with a tube leading to a benched machine. Sometime during the test, they realized the fans were not coming on at the correct temperature and that they were cutting off too soon on top of that. Problem - temp sensor + fan relay.

Acura applied the $79.00 diagnosis - swapped out the relay and sensor, drained my radiator fluid - bled the system and I was up and running - all done while I was at work, concentrating on other issues.

Point is that with a proper diagnosis you can do the repair yourself (just as I could have easily done) however, I didn't have the time.

KNLNGUS
 

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Sorry I did not see your post before, but just skimming down to the bottom sounds like a lazy thermostat and low rad juice. I had all sorts of heating and overheating nightmares until I finally just did the HG. Make sure your rad level is up to the top of the neck when your car is COLD. Even if you are half a litre down you can get cold air. But monitor this and if you have to keep refilling your rad, you are loosing coolant.

Check your overflow tank... does it keep getting higher everyday? In combination with this, you will have pressure undere your rad cap when you open it when your car is cold... this is air in the system and it is not allowing coolant to syphon back in. The test that KNLNGUS is talking about works, but it did not work for me as my problem was oil in the cooling system. Also, make sure your rad cap works, and that the little seal underneath has not ripped out of the bottom of the cap. This is very important to have a rad cap that holds pressure, or your car will just simply overheat... get a pressure test done to see if it holds pressure, and take it to a rad shop as they can do that exhaust gas test...

Other than that, I can unfortunantly say that I went through your scenerio and replaced all the little stuff.... It could be another case of the infamous HG problem or it could be something small. I have a thermostat that I used for about 4 months if you want it. I was told by Acura to put an Acura one in so I bought one.... like $15 if you want it.... Good Luck:)
 
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