[zagato27]

Had my daughter's 92 LS Cpe changed over to R34 about 2 months ago. Asked the dealer to check things out as I thought that it had a leak originally that was causing the "no cold air". Well he changed it over and I got back and it seemed to work while my daughter was away at college. Well slowly it went on the fritz. Took it back and they did a diagnostic and said that I should replace the condenser and evaporator to the tune of $1400 :eek2: :eek2: :eek2: . Well, I knew that maintaining these Acura's was expensive but geeeeeeeeeez. Any suggestions? Maybe I should try the local Honda dealer????? Too bad the Honda and Acura dealer are really owned by the same people but in different parts of the city. Was thinking of taking it to a local shop to see if it would be cheaper. Those parts have to be cheaper from AutoZone. Got some time to think about it but summer does come early here. your thoughts would be appreciated. Cheers

 

[morbo]

I'm parting out my Sedan and my A/C system works flawlessly.

Send me a PM and I we can talk price.

 

[Jetdoc]

I would try a reputable local shop. Dealer tends to go to extremes on most a/c repairs. When I swapped mine over it developed a few leaks that turned out to be bad orings.
$1 worth of orings and some freon fixed it.

 

[morbo]

I would try a reputable local shop. Dealer tends to go to extremes on most a/c repairs. When I swapped mine over it developed a few leaks that turned out to be bad orings.
$1 worth of orings and some freon fixed it.

Is it that easy to replace the o-rings yourself? I thought it required ripping apart the whole A/C system?

 

[Jetdoc]

There are several points in the system where the line and pieces/parts connect together. Most of the connections have 1 bolt holding them together and 1 or 2 clamps securing the lines. Some of the connections are in tough to reach places.
My R12 system quit during last winter so I decided to convert to R134 in the spring. When I tried to service it up it leaked everywhere. I put in a shot of the flourescent dye, removed the splash guard under the engine and inspected for leaks. I found a big leak at the compressor line connection. Replaced the orings and checked again. (Note* I would have to use a jumper wire at the triple pressure switch connector to force the compressor to come on and build up some pressure to make it leak.)
Next it leaked at the connection next to the receiver/dryer. Replaced the orings there and it leaked at the connection next to the condenser. Replaced that oring and no more leaks.

 

[Rumnarv]

That price is about right for an evaporator and condensor. For the evap they have to remove the entire dash board to get to it. It is basically Labor w/ about $400 in parts.

 

[Merlin the Wrench]

Black Death. Many converted systems fail that way. The oils used in R12 and R134a are not compatible. Do a search on black death and A/C units. There is lots on it. Typically the converted unit works for awhile then fails and when it does most of the parts have to be replaced to get rid of all the metal parts that came off the compressor when the oils failed. The only way to prevent it is to flush the old system exceptionally well and that is nearly impossible.