A/C recharging! R12
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u know.. i remember a long time ago on the old forums that people said u could buy a recharge kit at an auto parts store and do it yourself. however i talked to my friend and he said that was not possible since selling freon was illegal now and also it must be recharged by a qualified technician. is that true?
R12 is illegal to sell to anyone without the EPA certification.
Check EBAY, you can still buy, but at jacked up prices.
You CANNOT just fill the R-134 refridgerant into an R12 system.
The O rings must be changed, the oil must be drained out, valves must be changed, the system must be flushed to remove old oil and particuates.
After O-rings are replace and system is flushed, it is checked for leaks. A vacuum is applied and the system is tested to see if it can hold a vacuum for atleast 30 mins. If the vacuum holds, then you do not have a leak. Ester oil or PAG oil is added along with the R-134a.
The pressure is tested on both the low and high sides to ensure that they are within specs (for the temperature).
If more R-134a is needed, then it is added to the low side to bring pressures up to specs.
Most A/C mechanics I spoke to suggest that the accumulator be replace when you're converting to R-134a.
Check EBAY, you can still buy, but at jacked up prices.
You CANNOT just fill the R-134 refridgerant into an R12 system.
The O rings must be changed, the oil must be drained out, valves must be changed, the system must be flushed to remove old oil and particuates.
After O-rings are replace and system is flushed, it is checked for leaks. A vacuum is applied and the system is tested to see if it can hold a vacuum for atleast 30 mins. If the vacuum holds, then you do not have a leak. Ester oil or PAG oil is added along with the R-134a.
The pressure is tested on both the low and high sides to ensure that they are within specs (for the temperature).
If more R-134a is needed, then it is added to the low side to bring pressures up to specs.
Most A/C mechanics I spoke to suggest that the accumulator be replace when you're converting to R-134a.
the rebuild kit (so i hear) is 100 bucks or so... you WILL need to pull a vacuum on the system (which means youre gonna need a mechanic in your pocket or be ready to fork over some $$ for that too) after that... its smoothe sailing... the 134A WILL NOT attach to the G1's r12 hook up... different plugs... so basically... save yo money and have some1 who know what theyre doin fix it... unless ya can get the freon vacuum.... and the R12 on ebay... you have to have a license to buy it no matter what... (i tried) hehe.... hope some of this hoopla helped ya...
so basically, if i needed to get my A/C recharged, i simply cannot put in refigerant, i need the whole system flushed and a new accumulator..which equals lots of money. However, if i buy freon, which is being phased out now, and at an inflated price, i can simply add that into my system without having to change all the rings and accumulator?
which way is cheaper? both attempts i will need a mechanic right?
which way is cheaper? both attempts i will need a mechanic right?
It's a judgment call on how long you'll be keeping your car to convert to R134a.
You state initailly that you need recharging. For recharging, the R-12 must have leaked out. You should first find the leak and repair it.
It is usually O-rings that have dried up because of no lubrication.
The cost may not be so bad.
An accumulator goes for around $30 for your G1.
Go to http://www.ackits.com and price out everthing.
The R-134 retrofit kit (oil, new O-rings and fittings) is about $50-80.
The labour should not be more than 2hrs.
And the R-134a costs about $10 a can and you'll need 2 cans (maybe less).
The worst case around $150 for parts + the unknown is the cost of labour.
Yes you will need a mechanic.
You could rent a vacuum and compressor to facilitate the repair, but the rental (atleast here in Toronto) is around $120 for the test equipment.
If you can get it done for around $225-250, that's a good price.
You state initailly that you need recharging. For recharging, the R-12 must have leaked out. You should first find the leak and repair it.
It is usually O-rings that have dried up because of no lubrication.
The cost may not be so bad.
An accumulator goes for around $30 for your G1.
Go to http://www.ackits.com and price out everthing.
The R-134 retrofit kit (oil, new O-rings and fittings) is about $50-80.
The labour should not be more than 2hrs.
And the R-134a costs about $10 a can and you'll need 2 cans (maybe less).
The worst case around $150 for parts + the unknown is the cost of labour.
Yes you will need a mechanic.
You could rent a vacuum and compressor to facilitate the repair, but the rental (atleast here in Toronto) is around $120 for the test equipment.
If you can get it done for around $225-250, that's a good price.
Oh, so thats not so bad.. around 270 worst case scenario. Ok, the reason i wanted a recharge was because the car is 12 yrs old and it hasnt been changed/touched to my knowledge. Also the A/C in the car is cold on the highways, but around town its basically useless. With no tinted windows and with AC cranked max air max coldness, my back and legs are glued to the seats. This is NOT normal..correct? THis would mean i need a re-charge..correct?
sorrie for all teh questions and thanks for all the replies!
sorrie for all teh questions and thanks for all the replies!
Yes you would need recharging.AcuraGuy said:
You need to get the system flushed and checked for leaks.
If any part of the system is "open" then dust and other particulates will get in the system (this is bad
).A little prudent (albeit anal) measures now will save you $$$ down the line and you may never need to service your A/C again.
My GF has a MX-3 and she purchased it used about 4 years ago.
It is the coldest A/C I have ever felt. It does use R-12, but she has never had to get it serviced. A "sealed" system should never need servicing.Yes some refridgerant may leak out of the seals (O-rings), but no where else.
There were some debate on conversion from r12 in the old forum. I do remember that the compressor is the first thing to go after conversion because r134a is not as efficient as r12. The compressor has to work harder to maintain the same degree of 'coldness'.
Alexei suggested replacing the compressor and installing a parallel flow condensor.
What has been your experience?
Alexei suggested replacing the compressor and installing a parallel flow condensor.
What has been your experience?
Joined
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1,040 Posts
R12
I took my car for a recharge and the guy said he can put the new freon and he has done it before. The car never got cool. he said bad Compressor.
I gave up and got another car. Now I want to be sure! Very sure!
I just got this from the old board
http://forums.prod.legend.org/first/msgs/3093.phtml
I took my car for a recharge and the guy said he can put the new freon and he has done it before. The car never got cool. he said bad Compressor.
I gave up and got another car. Now I want to be sure! Very sure!
I just got this from the old board
http://forums.prod.legend.org/first/msgs/3093.phtml
Joined
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1,040 Posts
A/C Fixed!!!!
That's right. Fixed!
My latest Legend too had a A/C problem.
I was in a local Parts shop by me and I saw R12 Cans and the Gauges sitting on the counter. I ask him if he can recharge mine because it is not cool. he said sure . So I left and a few days later after work I went to him and he hook up the connections and saw that I already had R12 in there!!!!! (85,000 miles on this car)
The A/C never worked since I got the car in March? Something like that. Well he turn on the AC and was inspecting the system and the Compressor Clutch will not go on. He wiggled wires and nadda.
He simply pointed out to me there is a wire (RED) that come from the compressor and when the A/C is on Blast or on al all the Wires sends voltages to the Compressor.
So I just gave hime a little something for trying and Went straight home and changed clothes and put the car on the Ramps. I went straight to that wire and I can see the metal connector hanging out of the connector. I turn the car on and the A/C on blast and got a light tester and touch that metal peace from the wire connector and got no light.
I then unplugged the wire from the connector and Touch the RED Wire Directly (coming from inside the car) and I got light!!
It turns out to be the wire was not making contact to turn on the A/C Compressor. I adjusted the wire (looks like someone pulled on the wire ) and push back that Rubber to insulate the wire and that was it.
All that time and it was a wire.
Half way threw the summer and it was a Wire
lol I have to laugh.
BTW That Chilton's Manual did not give me good troubleshooting for the A/C.
It mainly give me Removal and installation.
That's right. Fixed!
My latest Legend too had a A/C problem.
I was in a local Parts shop by me and I saw R12 Cans and the Gauges sitting on the counter. I ask him if he can recharge mine because it is not cool. he said sure . So I left and a few days later after work I went to him and he hook up the connections and saw that I already had R12 in there!!!!! (85,000 miles on this car)
The A/C never worked since I got the car in March? Something like that. Well he turn on the AC and was inspecting the system and the Compressor Clutch will not go on. He wiggled wires and nadda.
He simply pointed out to me there is a wire (RED) that come from the compressor and when the A/C is on Blast or on al all the Wires sends voltages to the Compressor.
So I just gave hime a little something for trying and Went straight home and changed clothes and put the car on the Ramps. I went straight to that wire and I can see the metal connector hanging out of the connector. I turn the car on and the A/C on blast and got a light tester and touch that metal peace from the wire connector and got no light.
I then unplugged the wire from the connector and Touch the RED Wire Directly (coming from inside the car) and I got light!!
It turns out to be the wire was not making contact to turn on the A/C Compressor. I adjusted the wire (looks like someone pulled on the wire ) and push back that Rubber to insulate the wire and that was it.
All that time and it was a wire.
Half way threw the summer and it was a Wire
lol I have to laugh.
BTW That Chilton's Manual did not give me good troubleshooting for the A/C.
It mainly give me Removal and installation.
Joined
·
28 Posts
I converted my 87 Mitsubishi Starion to 134a, and what I did was replace all the orings I could get at, replaced the accumulator/dryer, drained the A/C compressor of the oil it had in it, pulled the old schrader valves out and replaced them with the 134a fittings with the schrader valves built in, put it all back together, pulled a vacuum on the system, recharged with oil and freon. Works great with no leaks. Didn't cost too much. I didn't flush the system out, but it works ok. Good luck!
Raymond
Raymond
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