a/c
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deja vu
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Your low on freon (the stuff that makes it cool). Do not run it because you risk burning up the compressor-the motor that pumps the freon (more $$$). Get it rechargedjake said:
definently low on freon... if its NOT blowing cold air when it IS on.. thats a compressor in need or a recharge... what happens is the compressor builds up pressure (by way of the pulley) in order to compress the freon... when the pressure is built up enough it turns off... BUT when there is NO freon... the compressor will turn on and see that it cannot build pressure and then turn off... b/c as stated before... its not good for it to compress nothing... so i wold have it checked... most places will do a pressure check for free... but try not to run the AC at all... as for the switch Vince... i would check that next IF the freon is charged... my moddo is START STUPID AND THEN GET SMARTER...
A/C cuts on and off also
Same a/c cutting on and off situation here -
Just recharged with about 2 bottles of the new freon after system was evacuated -new o-rings as well -
any hints before replacing expensive pressure switch or compressor or climate control compuer?
tanks
d
Same a/c cutting on and off situation here -
Just recharged with about 2 bottles of the new freon after system was evacuated -new o-rings as well -
any hints before replacing expensive pressure switch or compressor or climate control compuer?
tanks
d
First off, if you are LOW on refridgerant, you have a LEAK - get your system leak checked.
You will just be throwing away $$$ when you "top it up" all the time.
Go to a qualified A/C service shop, not a pep boys or Mienke.
I would agree that you may be low on refridgerant or the triple-pressure switch is on its way out.
Our systems should not cycle very much. Legends (all) use expansion valves not an orfice tube.
The pulley is always spining, when the clutch is engaged (by the triple-pressure-switch), it (the clutch) pulls on to the pulley and that causes (the internal of the) compressor to spin (ie compress). The expansion valve allows refridgerant to move from semi-liquid state to vapour state into the evaporator. The air in the vents is pushed across the evaporator and the the heat is removed from the air. The now "cool" air is blown thru the vents into the cabin.
It is the expansion valve that creates "pressure" in your system.
Post the HI and LO pressures, vent temps and ambient temp to get a better indication of problems.
Low side is low and high side is low - low refridgerant
Low side is low and high side is high - blockage in system - expansion valve, dryer
Low side is high and high side is low - if guage reading is wild, then compressor failing
Low side high and high side high - over charged
Your LO side line should be very cold and sweaty on a humid day.
Your HI side line should be hot to the touch.
Our system take 24oz of refridgerant and ~8oz of oil. You could be low on one or both.
May be temperature sensor ?
Was the refridgerant charged into a vacuum ?
Hopefully it is just low and you'll just need a refill (once the leak is found and repaired).
You will just be throwing away $$$ when you "top it up" all the time.
Go to a qualified A/C service shop, not a pep boys or Mienke.
I would agree that you may be low on refridgerant or the triple-pressure switch is on its way out.
Our systems should not cycle very much. Legends (all) use expansion valves not an orfice tube.
The compressor does what it's name suggests, it compresses VAPOUR to LIQUID nothing more.
The pulley is always spining, when the clutch is engaged (by the triple-pressure-switch), it (the clutch) pulls on to the pulley and that causes (the internal of the) compressor to spin (ie compress). The expansion valve allows refridgerant to move from semi-liquid state to vapour state into the evaporator. The air in the vents is pushed across the evaporator and the the heat is removed from the air. The now "cool" air is blown thru the vents into the cabin.
It is the expansion valve that creates "pressure" in your system.
Post the HI and LO pressures, vent temps and ambient temp to get a better indication of problems.
Low side is low and high side is low - low refridgerant
Low side is low and high side is high - blockage in system - expansion valve, dryer
Low side is high and high side is low - if guage reading is wild, then compressor failing
Low side high and high side high - over charged
Your LO side line should be very cold and sweaty on a humid day.
Your HI side line should be hot to the touch.
Our system take 24oz of refridgerant and ~8oz of oil. You could be low on one or both.
May be temperature sensor ?
Was the refridgerant charged into a vacuum ?
Hopefully it is just low and you'll just need a refill (once the leak is found and repaired).
I had it fully charged today,and talked to the technician he said i do have a leak but he can,t find it. but 10 minutes after recharge it went off and stayed off for at least 15 minutes again. This is the second time in the last month getting it recharged,from 2 weeks ago it was down 3/4 of a lbs.
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Isn't that rather expensive to recharge an R12 system? Or did you convert to R134?
Your compressor (most) needs 20psi to be in the system before it will turn on.jake said:
For the system to stop working (loosing refridgerent) so quickly, means that there is a major leak. If after 15 mins or so, when the system doesn't come on, can you press the schrader valve and does any refridgerant come out?
If you cannot see the refridgerant come out from the engine (a mist or hear it) , then the only place left, is in the cab compartment. Which may mean that your evaporator is leaking into the car. This stuff is not meant to be breathed in - cancer causing.
If your A/C tech can't find it and it leaks out in 15 mins, he shouldn't be servicing A/C systems.
I just purcahsed a leak detector on Ebay last week and saved my brother a lot of $$$.
I'm just a DIYer and have read up on this stuff in the past year or so and I'm loooking to find what certificate I need to service A/C systems.
Next to engine and tranny systems (which I don't have the correct tools for), I would say that your A/C system is probably the next most expensive. That's why I learned how to diagnos and repair them.
Go to a A/C specialty shop (ie A/C systems are all they do).
Or if you have central A/C for your home, call up and speak to a tech and see if he/she does the service "on the side".
Good luck
ac- accumulator
I have just replaced the acumulator and a whole newset of o-rings and seals -
Charged with 24 oz of Cooland r32 adn 8 oz of oil -
If it still wont consistantly kick on the compressor, should I service any other parts of the AC before takng it to a pro?
Thanks
I have just replaced the acumulator and a whole newset of o-rings and seals -
Charged with 24 oz of Cooland r32 adn 8 oz of oil -
If it still wont consistantly kick on the compressor, should I service any other parts of the AC before takng it to a pro?
Thanks
Digging up an old thread
I'm having a problem with my A/C as well.
If I turn on the A/C it make a very bad whir and skinks. I'm guessing the A/C clutch went out. Can anyone confirm? Has anyone changed one before? Do you need to have pro tools? Do you have to crack into the freon supply? I've never worked on A/Cs before so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
I'm having a problem with my A/C as well.
If I turn on the A/C it make a very bad whir and skinks. I'm guessing the A/C clutch went out. Can anyone confirm? Has anyone changed one before? Do you need to have pro tools? Do you have to crack into the freon supply? I've never worked on A/Cs before so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
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