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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what are those two pieces that keep the wheel at a 90 degree angle looks like an L shape, and has a rubber boot around a joint and its located at the top of the wheel well...hard to explain going to get a picture up of it...

need to know so i can order those 2 parts...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
now when u buy the upper control arm assembly do u get both pieces? and can u get aftermarket ones or stright from Acura/honda...

thanks for all the help in advance...
 

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I second that. The ball joint does come with the Upper Control Arm. I had to replace mine last summer. I couldn't find it aftermarket anywhere so I ordered from AHmotor.com. I think I paid around $75 for it.

Apparently this is a fairly common problem. In fact AHmotor.com lists it as one of their commonly required replacement parts.

FYI, replacing it was no picnic. The problem was removing the old ball joint. Even with a pickle fork it was still very tough. I ended up taking it to a buddie's service garage and we had to heat the #$%* out of it to get it off.

Good luck!!

-Matt
 

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Just did both my control arms last week.
$65 for one $67 for the other.
I found changing them very easy. Took about a hour and a half to be through. All you need is a 17mm wrench and socket, and a pair of needle nose / other plyers to remove the cotter, and a hammer to remove the ball joint, and a deep sparkplug socket to set the spacer on the control arm.
I never use pickle forks. They ALWAYS tear the boot or "f" something up. The easy way to remove any ball joint is to smack the heavy item that is holding on to it. In this case the knuckle. as you are looking at it from the side, give it a whack on the side of the knuckle right over where the balljoint goes through. I usually just take off the balljoint nut, whack the knuckle a couple times then lightly tap the bottom of the joint and it comes out like butter. Same thing applied when I did my lower front balljoints (keep in mind you need a press to get the LFBjoints back in).

So you got the old ones out?
The new ones you get will come with all the parts you need, except the cotter pins. Get two new ones don't use the old beat up ones. These twentyfive cent parts help hold the front wheels on the car.

There is a spacer (for lack of a better word) that press fits over the two bolts that fit up into the body. If it isn't already pressed on, place it over the top and place a deep socket / jack handle / whatever fits over the bolt and tap it on alternating between the two bolts.
I'm long winded tonight... Holler if you got more ?s. good luck...
 

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Refering to the posted pics:

I didn't realize that sedans have quite a different set up than the coupes. It almost looks like a coupe REAR suspension with the single upper arm going into the knuckle.

I also noticed a lot of tire rubbing on the spring. The ball joint is that bad and you're still driving it?

Like Buk said....I too have noticed that the Legend suspension comes apart quite easily when compared to other cars. You really don't have to beat stuff up with a hammer to get parts separated. I've gotten my suspension apart without hammers; I just use a gear puller.

To ease disassembly in the future, I put a very thin coat of anti-seize on the press-together mating parts.
 

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Car creaks

My G1 creaks and sqeaks in the rear only when I go over bumps and dips. No rubbing on the springs like the pictures above. The car doesn't bounce excessively - so I've ruled out back shocks. Any idea what this is?
 

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Re: Car creaks

Rick90Legend said:
My G1 creaks and sqeaks in the rear only when I go over bumps and dips. No rubbing on the springs like the pictures above. The car doesn't bounce excessively - so I've ruled out back shocks. Any idea what this is?
It could be almost anything; ball joints, worn rubber bushings, etc.

Someone here suggested spraying each bushing/joint with lube one at a time, going for a test drive after each spritz. When you stop hearing the noise, you've found the offending joint.

I haven't tried this method, but it sounds like it should work.

In my experience, the squeak was the upper arm ball joint (rear suspension)

Now I have a creeking or more like a "crock" sound when I go over small bumps and dips. It's not coming from the suspension as far as I can tell. I think it's the passenger seat back.
 
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