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Just Another Guy
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555 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. First off I'd like to thank everyone thats helped me get all the info needed for this swap. Kenso, sr5guy, telion, Dv8, whats77inaname, Moistical were all great help on PM for helping a newbie do some work on my car. Also Petthepeep for the DIY on the manifold removal really helped.

For anyone thinking of doing this swap, I think it might have been easier if I had unbolted the Air suction valve on top middle back of the manifold. It will make reaching some of the bolts and hoses in between the engine and firewall much easier. Also ziplock bags, tape, markers for labeling all the bolts extremely helped put everything back together.

Took about 5 hours for my friend and I to do it, mainly cause we took our time, we haven't done this stuff before, and we labeled everything.

Note to Kenso: OEM IM gasket even after 10k miles after my HG replaced, looked better quality than the cheap ebay IM gasket....so I reused it.

Only surprising thing that happened was after putting it in, and I primed the fuel pump. A little gas sprayed from the top of the fuel injectors. NOT from the insulators/seal rings. Got scared, wiped off the gas, primed it again and started it and it hasn'te leaked at all. I'm thinking the rail and the plastic piece on top of the injector had to form a seal/lock together?

Thanks again all for the help. I took it out for a test drive, and its a night and day difference. Where before after 5k it sort of lulled, it now keeps pulling. The 1-2 shift seemed really powerful - first time it's turned the wheel in my hand slightly. No difference IMHO below 5k - same torque/hp.

Everything taken apart.


Dv8's custom PAIR block plate. Although after I first started it up, it rattled. I tightened it down more and it stopped. Thanks for the plate, but I think I might need to get something thicker because when I tightened it, it crushed it a little. :p


All done!


-Ed
 

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1,660 Posts
Im not familiar with placing the EGR block plate there, most people put it beneath the actual EGR valve, did it throw a CEL??


nice work by the way
 

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Just Another Guy
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555 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry, I didn't say that right. It was a plate Dv8 made for me to block the PAIR pipe. It runs from the back of the Type I IM to the driver's side exhaust manifold.

-Ed
 

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Life Ruiner
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4,868 Posts
Glad I could help.


Did you use the gasket then the plate, or just plate to pipe?

I would say to use the gasket if you have it, otherwise use some high heat RTV for a tight seal.

The metal will crush a bit but not enough to break off.

~Dv8
 

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Just Another Guy
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555 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Glad I could help.

Did you use the gasket then the plate, or just plate to pipe?

I would say to use the gasket if you have it, otherwise use some high heat RTV for a tight seal.

The metal will crush a bit but not enough to break off.

~Dv8
Yeah I used the Ebay gasket. You know after it was all done I thought it might seal better without a gasket because the gasket actually makes it sort of bulge in the middle. If that makes sense? Because the bolts are squeezing on the outside. Without the gasket, maybe, it might lay more flush on the PAIR pipe....dunno.

Anyway it works good, it was just funny to hear this weird rattle coming from the PAIR/block because it wasn't tight enough. You'd hear it when you let off the gas above 2500rpm.

-Ed
 

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Just Another Guy
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555 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just removed the pair system all together, no need for a blocker, but that is another way of doing it. Nice work. 5 hours is pretty damned good. I swapped in a JDM so I had to splice the wireharnesses, and remove my pass side valve cover and replace it with the USDM, the cam/crank sensor had to be swapped for the USDM, I also swapped over my Type I crank pulley since it's lighter than the Type II, all in all mine took about 12 hours, but like you said, I took my time and did it right. I replaced my WP/TB/ Tensioner, HG, IMG, and had some machine work done. Basically EVERYTHING for the vacuum and electronics that was on the driver side of my JDM motor, had to be swapped to the pass side of the motor to make it work in the USDM car.
EDIT: Gotcha Type II.

So did you block the PAIR at the exhaust manifold? Or put in Type II manifolds/OBX?

-Ed
 

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Just Another Guy
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555 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sweet!! how much HP does this mod yield for us type 1 guys??
I think Kenso's dyno showed 25hp above 5k. But that was with the extrude hone. I'm hoping cause now at least its all cleaned out from that stupid EGR, that I'm making 10-15hp above 5k.

We'll get a better idea after I track it, but for $140 shipped for manifold, and $60 for gaskets. $200 for 10-15hp is pretty good.

-Ed
 

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Just Another Guy
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555 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah by far the cheapest hp per dollar upgrade you can make on a Legend. Remember a Type I and Type II lower end are indentical, the differences lie in the heads and intake manifold. With that said, for you Type I guys, a simple extrude hone of your Type I intake will yeild gains also. And DV8 correct me if I am incorrect here, but couldnt you also just use a blocker plate on the pair pipe and just sandwich the plate between the pair pipe and the egr on the manifold? Not sure if that will throw a CEL (pretty sure it will though), but it should make a subtle increase in performance, with the expense of decreased fuel mileage.
Not sure if you'd want to spend the money on extrude honing a Type I IM just cause it's pretty restrictive up top. And since you have to take it off anyway, you might as well put in an extrude honed Type II IM.

Sr5guy told me if I kept the Type I cams I wouldn't need the Type II ECU - affirmed by whats77inaname.

Block plate works great right underneath the EGR sensor. I don't think OBD1 checks for flow. I'm sure you could put a plate on the back of the manifold, it just would be more of a pain.

-Ed
 

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MAD DOG!
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1,673 Posts
type II has shorter and fatter runners... you have the TII ecu too or is it just a chipped TI. Im thinking about finally doing it too just wondering if there are any different vacuum lines or coolant hoses? dont have the pair already because i crimped and welded the pipe when i put on the OBXs so now i can get rid of it all together.
 

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Just Another Guy
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555 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
type II has shorter and fatter runners... you have the TII ecu too or is it just a chipped TI. Im thinking about finally doing it too just wondering if there are any different vacuum lines or coolant hoses? dont have the pair already because i crimped and welded the pipe when i put on the OBXs so now i can get rid of it all together.
Chipped TI. Like I said sr5guy told me that the TII chip won't run properly without the TII cams.

The PAIR vacuum tank, solonoid, and a few rubber hoses are removed. Obviously also the TII IM doesn't have the PAIR valve.

Second behind replacing the restrictive stock Y and CAT, this has to be one of the best mods for high end hp. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
-Ed
 

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248 Posts
wanting to use my type 2 IM

Edify, I was wanting to know how you cleaned your manifold before putting it on? I've got a used type 2 im from Russian and a manifold gasket set from Kenso but i want it **** and span before i put it on. so just clean it or take the upper part off and send it to get eh? advice please.
 

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Just Another Guy
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555 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Edify, I was wanting to know how you cleaned your manifold before putting it on? I've got a used type 2 im from Russian and a manifold gasket set from Kenso but i want it **** and span before i put it on. so just clean it or take the upper part off and send it to get eh? advice please.
No matter what if you take apart the intake manifold your going to need the gaskets between the lower and middle and middle and upper parts of the manifold..

I highly recommend at least cleaning it out with Carb\Throttle body cleaner as the EGR gunks it up and then blocking the EGR. Your going to need something to get the old gaskets off with. I used brillo pads & a razorblade \w scraper. Just take your time, clean it up nice, and put it back together with some permatex instant gasket to hold it in place while you bolt it all back together.

-Ed
 

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Just Another Guy
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555 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Well, I made a new block plate out of brass. Works really well. No gasket.

I have to say though, do not run your legend without a block plate. Sheesh, it felt like a 4 cylinder. Also, there was a continuous click over 2k rpms or so.

-Ed
 
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