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These are really good rotors, they stay pretty cool, don't heat up as fast as OEM (ie x-drill/slots) You should change your pads the same time to Axis Master or PBR, low dust and you will see the difference in stopping.

I think $250.00 is ok providing they are CAD plated so they look good and don't really rust and they always look good with some after market rims that show them off.

you can also check out www.raceconcepts.com and e-mail MR.WOOD from that site to see what prices he can give.

GOOD LUCK
 

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Its worth it.

I have had mine for about a month, and they are just starting to "break in". I can really feel the bite. I have heard some people say they didnt really notice a difference. Im also told that if you dont break them in right(slowly) that they wont have as much bite or wear right. So if you go with them, be sure you break them in right.
All in all, I really like mine thus far.
 

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502MotorSports.com
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exactly...they prolly didn't brake them in right!
Initial brake in period is 250-500 miles....gentle braking...if not, you can damage your rotors. I must say, it is a nite and day difference...especially if you do several high spped runs...you will notice no fade.....one thing I must add, though

I ran ONE year on the more expensive AEM pads

I am now trying out the Axxis Metal Master Pads

THe AEM's are a much BETTER pad...less (no) dust, and better bite.

They are about $20 more a set - $75 front, $60+ rear
 

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my understanding is that the break-in period is not so much for the rotors as it is for the pads, although it's the pads that end up screwing the rotors.

With new rotors and new pads, excessive force on the brakes can cause the pads to glaze up, which in turn screws up the rotors. If this happens, it's time to take the rotors back off, get them milled to remove the glazing, and then reinstall, along with another fresh set of pads.
 

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how long do the brembos last as compared to the oem rotors? im just asking for your experiencesi know everyone driving style is different
 

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Junior Mint
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Get them. The stock G2 brakes suck. I've almost rear-ended people on the freeway due to brake fade on stock brakes. Now I'm worried that the person behind me will rear end me if I stop too quickly.

This is one of those mods that really doesn't have a downside other than you have to put up $$. You do feel like you're driving a new car during break-in period (no hard braking)

I've had my rotors for about 1.5 years now. No cracks, no signs of excessive wear. The CAD plating on the braking surface is gone obviously. No rust. Just brake dust in the crossdrilled holes that annoys me.
 

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Thai,

The plating is for the top of the rotor and the rotor hub. Basically the parts that dont touch the pad.
 

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Junior Mint
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Thai.95LCoupe said:
So if the CAD plating fades off after awhile.. What is the point in getting them CAD plated?
The CAD plating on the BRAKING SURFACE is gone. Where the pad touches the rotor. The CAD plating has prevented rust from forming in all other parts of the rotor. Look at any stock rotor over 2 years old, and you'll know what I mean.
 

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Yaozer *n *he A*k
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If you don't plan on getting new rotors and drive conservatively then your fine w/ what you have. However if you do decide whether to get drilled/slotted brembos, or just plain OEM, get the D/S Brembos hands down. OEM rotors are crap and expensive from the dealer. The Brembos offered by Mr Wood or Elvis are about $55/each while the crappy stock rotors will charge you about close to $100/each. The Brembos are a better investment than you can possibly imagine performance wise and also in the looks dept if you have open view thru the wheels.
I originally upgrade w/ Powerslots rotors in the front for about $85/each and they had fairly better braking compared to the OEM rotors plus I was tired of looking at my rusty looking OEM rotors. The wheels felt cooler than when I had the OEM rotors. Even after giving a good break in tho, several months later it started to warp for no apparent reason. Now I got the CD/Slt Brembos in and they have amazing grip and my 17" alloy wheels feels even cooler to the touch after a hard summer driving that I do. No fading whatsoever and I have an even shorter 60-0 emergency braking distance than I had w/ the Powerslots, honest to god. It also helps to have nice tires too for the grip w/ the road b/c of the car's momentum. The stock Michelin's MXV4 tends to slide alot, so I got some Dunlop SP9000 as an additional insurance investment for the superb wet/dry traction.
 
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