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Auto 2 Manual conversion 5/6 speed

26K views 83 replies 22 participants last post by  blkonblkcpe  
#1 · (Edited)
I've had a few people PM about info. on the auto2manual conversion so I'm putting this thread together with a parts list. I really think that this info. should be on a Sticky even if it's not this particular thread.

As for the ecu I hear you can change it from auto to manual now but I haven't fully read that thread yet. I'm going to put it on the list anyway.

The prices are all average so it could be less or a more. This is for the 6-speed with 5-speed flywheel/clutch. For full 5-speed just get a 5-speed tranny & ecu. For full 6-speed just get 6-speed flywheel/clutch. The parts you need are

1. 6-speed tranny (and fork) $800
2. 5-speed flywheel/flywheel bolts $40/$25
3N. 5-speed clutch kit and pressure plate bolts
4. pedal assembly $30
5. shift linkage & knob $50
6. clutch hydraulic lines and clutch damper $100
7N. clutch master cylinder and reservoir $40/$20
8N. clutch slave cylinder $40
9N. rear tranny mount (three M10 x 1.25 bolts 90/100mm long and three 2.25" bolt spacers or a bunch of washers) $90
10. 5-speed or 6-speed ecu $75
11. 5-speed or 6-speed differential $200

Optional
1. shift knob (aftermarket or new oem)
2. manual shifter console
3. manual gauge cluster

I put an N next to anything that should be new.

That should be it, if anyone sees anything missing feel free to add to the list. A mechanic will charge anywhere from $1200-$1800 to do it for you. If your a DIYer then you won't have to worry about labor costs.

The clutch kit I can't price 'cause that's up to the individual. I suggest doing a search for more info. on that topic price will depend on brand and stage.

For parts check www.Ebay.com and www.car-part.com
For more info. on the swap try Dv8's page www.2slik4u.com and click "projects"

If you want to wire up the reverse lockout (6-speed ecu only) you have to add a relay in the relay box next to the ABS modulator and run wiring to it for the reverse lockout. You run 1 wire from the ecu to the relay through the firewall, then you connect 2 of the other terminals to a 12v+ source. The other terminal sends power to the lockout solenoid when the ecu triggers the relay. The relay is grounded by the ecu when the car travels over 12mph.
-thanks Kenso

Nuetral switch goes into the same spot in the manual ECU as with the auto ECU, so if you wire the M/T nuetral switch into the P/R/N/D4/D3/2/1 switch (shifter console), it will work fine. The reverse light switch doesn't go through the ECU. Check out the "Standalone Engine Management System and ECU Wire/Pin Diagram" for the pin-outs.
-thanks Matt (sr5guy)
 
#41 ·
Perform a search as this topic rears its ugly head often. If you want a manual trans. vehicle, sell the current one and buy a manual. I suggest this for several reasons: (a) The likelihood of performing such a swap w/o some minor or major problems is remote, (b) if you have a loan on the car, the leading source will not take kindly to you taking the asset and turning it into a parts-only car, (c) if you are ever in an accident, a sharp appraiser/adjuster will notice that the car has been "reengineered" and can state that the cause of the accident is due to this "reengineering" thus making you 100 percent responsible. Think about this. Easier to just buy a manual car and refurbish.
 
#42 ·
I was also thinking about that. But you spend so much time and money into one car and the next car just doesn't feel the same. It was this car that started everything for me and I hate to use it as a parts car.
 
#43 ·
I considered that b4 my swap but I put to much into my current Leg and didn't want to have to spend time swapping all the parts over to another Leg. Plus I have the super rare Type C interior which is almost impossible to find and of course there's the sentimental reasons.

Plus some of my parts wouldn't have swapped because I would have most likely bought a coupe as my next Leg.
 
#47 ·
I spoke to Tony from Velocity and he was saying JDM, due to the fact that none of these cars were actually "made" in the states. I've made an appointment with him to drop by and discuss in details.
 
#58 ·
I have a mechanic over here whos willing to do my swap for around 500. But then again I trust my mechnic so... eh. I have a quick question. I'm about to get all the parts for a full swap to a 5sp for 750 but I'm wondering if the fact that I have a typeII would possibly alter anything? You dont think a tranny with 115k miles on it would be dangerous or not worth that price do you? or at least part of tat price since it comes with everything else.
 
#64 ·
I remember from the meet in Queens. I bought a new mount for the manual tranny and then ordered some longer bolts and used a bunch of washers to fill up the space. If you need help with anything just let me know. Are you gonna be at the NYC meet on the 17th? Or maybe the Tri-state meet in May? I should be at both. Tri-state with the Legend. NYC meet is looking 50/50 being that my motor is still out. I might have to go to the NYC meet in an Accord.
 
#72 · (Edited)
what i meant in my previous post is, can i just use the automatic rear bracket on the manual transmission instead of buying 5spd tranny rear bracket? When I bought my 5spd tranny it didn't come with the rear bracket. I should've been more clearer in my last post. sorry if this question been answered already, just trying to get understanding.
 
#74 ·
i started my swap a day ago! i got the engine out and the transmission dismounted. it was a real pain in the ass to get it out, but me and my personal assistant(girlfriend) had got it out! Damn i love her!:hug:

i still have a few things todo like new injectors(6), fuel filter, valve cover gasket, degrease the engine, new (6)coil packs, spark plugs, short ram, thermostat and new hoses(coolant, oil) before i swap trannys and put it back in.

I wanted to do a write up, but it was a hassle getting the engine out and that had threw me all off track. it took almost all day to get the engine and tranny out together( im still a bit brand new!) i'll post pics later today
 
#76 ·
I'm sure you also have a CEL, which is bad.

Did you cut out the daughterboard? Are you SURE you cut out the correct resistor (and didn't hurt anything else doing it)?

I did this to my Type II ECU that I thought would be for testing (and it was) but now it will be for use with my 6-speed and it's perfect.

So, something went awry in your procedure.

Can you take pics of your ECU insides (close-up) and let me see what you did?

Mike
 
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#78 ·
ANY ONE IN FL?????

sup legenders?

I slowly but surely gettin all the peices i need to swap my AT with a 6 speed MT, and really want someone who has either experience doing this or very familiar with our Legend's to perform the swap.

Im in south florida, but will go anywhere in the state to get this done.

Any reccommendations?

Thanks! :)
 
#81 ·
You can throw in a different computer, but why buy it when you can just convert the AT one you have?

Also, the whole thing with a different ECU is more for 6 speeds than 5 speeds. 6 speeds have a reverse lock-out solenoid that is controlled by the ECU (through a relay of course). Over 12MPH, the ECU grounds a relay to turn on the reverse Lock-out solenoid. EDIT: I don't know if the 5-speed version of the ECU outputs ground on the A8 terminal above 12MPH. Anyone??? /EDIT

From a 50,000 foot view, the basic instructions are:

- put in all mechanicals for trans/shifter/clutch
- wire up the neutral switch and reverse light switch on the trans
- convert or replace your ECU
- wire up the Reverse lock-out for 6 speeds

Other things you may want to do (for a nice, clean job) would be to change out the bezel in the dash so you don't have AT gear indicator, and change out the console to a MT console.

If you have more questions, just ask. I did this one year and almost 20000 miles ago. :)

Mike
 
#82 ·
I'll add this tidbit of advice from my personal pain and suffering. This WILL make life much easier in the long run.

"Make sure before you get rid of your AT parts, you save the 14 pin plug that plugs into the connector under the stereo head unit, it's for the shifter position indicator that is on the side of the AT shifter. You should just cut the wires, and leave about 8 inches of the wires so you can splice into them. You'll be needing this if you want to wire up the clutch pedal so it won't start without depressing the clutch. Also, if you like cruise control, you will need to connect the pink and black wires together that come out of this connector and run back to the shift position indicator switch as those tell the cruise you are in drive.

Hopefully this will help, and you won't need to go by trial and error as I did!"

PS: Cruise, A/C, AND reverse lockout work as they should!

And without MWeber, Matt(sr5guy), Forevralegend, and a few others who I can't remember ATT, I couldn't have been successful, THANKS GUYS!
 
#83 ·
+1 for using the wires and plug from the shifter. You're not going to use the shifter ever again (you will NOT swap back to an automatic, trust me), there are many automatics in junk yards, and you need the wires. So, just cut 'em of and use 'em.

Regarding the black and pink, I still strongly recommend conecting them to the switch on the clutch pedal bracket so that when you depress the clutch, the cruise also disengages. If you take a trip through the mountains, you will probably be downshifting from 6 to 5 on steep grades and having to press cancel or tap the brake before doing so is FAR too involved for a simple downshift. :D

Good job John! Enjoy the added MPG and fun. WOOHOO!

Mike