Acura Legend Forum banner
21 - 40 of 64 Posts
Discussion starter · #21 ·
Update: Tonight, got home from work (20min drive), stopped at my mailbox to get the mail...car acts like it's going to die, but doesn't, rpms go real low, dash lights and headlights get dim, nearly all the way out...I step on the gas, no response...try again, rpms increase barely...get the mail, turn the car off (probably a mistake)...couldnt start it up right away...finally got it started w/dim dash and headlights, made it to my garage, but had to rev the engine to keep it from dying...alternator and/or battery? DrD, may have to meet ya sooner than planned, lol.
 
Was a bad alternator...bad brush contact due to a "groove" in the rotor... Replaced it w/a 135amp HO OEM alternator, all is good now.
:woot: ...yet another High Output OEM alternator installed, any noticeable difference? let us know, I might go this route meself ;)
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
No noticeable difference as of yet, but am planning on installin 2 12" subs and a power hungry Orion HCCA 2100 amp to power the 12"s....probably end up getting a dry cell and putting it in the trunk....no caps for me! Will let ya know...has only been in a day and didn't drive much today...
 
Sweet I'm glad you got the problem solved. I'm also curious about the high amp alternator since I got some serious bass that likes to make my lights dim a lot lol.
 
Here is the cause of Ophidians charging problem. This is a closeup of the back of the rotor on his alternator. The brush had worn down and had worn into the slipring big-time. This caused the intermittant charging he experienced. The diagnosis was to hook up a voltmeter to the battery and an amp meter to the output lead of the alternator. After these were hooked up a sharp smack on the alternator with a rubber hammer knocked the brush into contact with the slipring. It charged at 62 amps with a good contact.

Image


Dave
 
Here is the cause of Ophidians charging problem. This is a closeup of the back of the rotor on his alternator. The brush had worn down and had worn into the slipring big-time. This caused the intermittant charging he experienced. The diagnosis was to hook up a voltmeter to the battery and an amp meter to the output lead of the alternator. After these were hooked up a sharp smack on the alternator with a rubber hammer knocked the brush into contact with the slipring. It charged at 62 amps with a good contact.

Image


Dave
I want that lens! Very nice pic!
 
Em:

Thanks. That is the EF 100 2.8 macro. I used the MR14EX ringflash with it. It is really cool as it has modeling lights to use before the flashtubes fire. It can bias the light right or left. I got the lens from B&H for $449. I need a better ambient lighting setup. I don't have the big flash yet for night shots of holes in garage doors. (cough cough) I think it will fit your 20D (?) You can use it anytime you want. Use my 50 1.2L to shoot the garage door. I'm thinking avatar material! What fun.

Dave
 
All:

I am thinking about rebuilding the above-referenced alternator. It will need brushes, bearings, and a rotor. My cost will be between $130-145. Anyone interested in an alternator I will guarantee for years not weeks like cheezyparts.com

Dave
 
All:

I am thinking about rebuilding the above-referenced alternator. It will need brushes, bearings, and a rotor. My cost will be between $130-145. Anyone interested in an alternator I will guarantee for years not weeks like cheezyparts.com

Dave
I would say that sounds good...except that you can get the 135amp alternator on ebay for like $110 and it works great...put one in my legend a couple months ago
 
mrtouchedme:

That's the problem. Those commercial rebuilds use the cheapest bearings they can get. The chinese bearings are heat treated with the heat from burning cow poop. The brushes are the cheapest crap they can get. Who knows the quality of the stator windings. If you ever churn 135 amps out of the little thing the heat is going to really go up. These are a very small-frame alternator. That heat has to go somewhere.

There is no way I can beat those rebuilds on price. Quality is a different story.

Dave
 
All:

I am thinking about rebuilding the above-referenced alternator. It will need brushes, bearings, and a rotor. My cost will be between $130-145. Anyone interested in an alternator I will guarantee for years not weeks like cheezyparts.com

Dave
^^^ You've got my attention Dr. :)
 
21 - 40 of 64 Posts