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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It seems as though threads in this Forum are like the seasons. You get a bunch of posts about vibrations, then automatic transmssion problems, then water leaks, then oil leaks, then lifter ticking, then EGR codes, etc., etc.

Now that it seems we're moving into "brake" season, I thought I'd contribute this. I downloaded this DIY years ago off of an NSX forum. The procedure is exactly the same for a Legend, except that the Legend only has three solenoids instead of four like the NSX.

Some things to be aware of:

1) When hooking up battery power to the solenoids, MAKE DAMN SURE that you're connecting 12v to the solenoids and not to the ABS controller. Examine the solenoid connectors carefully. The solenoid side of the connector will have the SOLID red and SOLID black wires. They will not have the striped trace. Please verify this with your FSM.

2) Don't run the pump for more than 20-30 seconds as stated by the author. You WILL burn out the motor.

3) When you pull the motor relay, you'll notice two of the female blade connectors are silver-colored, the other two are copper-colored. You'll want to hook up 12v to the copper colored connectors to get the motor to run. Don't worry about polarity.
CORRECTION Look at the male conectors of the relay. You'll notice the silver and copper colored male terminals. You'll want to hook up 12 v to the female terminals in the fuse box that correspond to the copper colored terminals on the relay.































 

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whoa. awesome.

yeah, i was thinking the same about "seasons" myself. everyone seems to encounter the same problems at about the same time i do. total convenience =P
 

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Discussion Starter #3
.....
CORRECTION Look at the male conectors of the relay. You'll notice the silver and copper colored male terminals. You'll want to hook up 12 v to the female terminals in the fuse box that correspond to the copper colored terminals on the relay.
I was reading through this the other day and there is a mistake in my original post. :bash:

Don't hook up 12v to the female terminals. You just want to jumper the terminals.
 

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I've read your other questions and the answers given. It is good counsel. If you did everything already suggested and are still having problems, then at the very least buy a Haynes manual or Chiltons manual (available at most parts stores) for your year and make of van. Read and follow the proceedures and it that doesn't work it's time to have a Ford dealer mechanic look at it.
ABS repairs can be frustrating at least and dangerous if done improperly. The ABS pump may need to by cycled to purge the air and you need a scan tool for that with ABS software. You will need a repair manual to know for sure. They are around twenty bucks and well worth the mone
 

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I am new to the Forum so I may be doing this wrong. But.

I have an 88 LS coupe and the ABS hydraulic modulator has apparently failed completely. Fluid from the master cylinder reservoir moves to the ABS reservoir in twenty or so miles of city driving.

First difficulty is in finding a replacement modulator. Rock Auto has one reman, but it only carries a miserly one year warranty and a price tag of nearly $900.

Second is to determine whether there are any particular tricks or don't do's in the replacement.

Any and all help will be appreciated..
 

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Hello all,

Not sure if I am posting correctly, but here goes.

1988 Legend LS coupe

ABS problem:

The modulator apparently failed as evinced by brake fluid quickly moving (as in 30 miles of city driving) from the master cylinder reservoir to the ABS reservoir. Everything else (pump, switch, accumulator) seemed to be working normally.

Bought salvage modulator. Installed modulator.

Tried to ensure that suction and discharge lines from the pump were vented and full of fluid.

The pump will come on as expected when speed gets above 10 mph or so. But it is noisy and it is clearly not filling the accumulator as it continues to run even when the car speed is dropped down. With the pump running, there is no fluid discharge when the banjo bolt connecting the discharge to the modulator assembly is loosened.

Is the salvage modulator faulty? Or is there an installation step I am overlooking?

I did not vent the individual wheels as there seemed no point with the ABS apparently not working as it should.

Thanks to anyone who can shed light on this.

Joe
 

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I say no need to vent the wheel calipers for ABS issues. The ABS system only operates some pistons which sit on top of the "partitioning valves" which are part of the ABS module. I might not fully comprehend your situation; but if your reservoir is full and not raising pressure, you might have a failed accumulator diaphragm or the infamous solenoids, and probably your pressure cut-off switch might be bad.
However, get the ABS codes, those are the best diagnosis tool. If now you don't have fluid cross flow between the reservoirs, be very happy.
 

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The brake system is configured with some component such as calipers, wheel cylinders, hoses, and the master cylinder. The brakes can be manually fit with power bleeder, injector tool and vacuum rubber.
 
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