I would say about 15% of your power lose from the crank to the wheel due to weight, wind resistance and part in the tranny that transfer the power to the wheel.

 

so what's a completely stock Type II Legend get on a dyno? would it be in the 160's? is there a typical ratio for how far apart the listed HP and WHP are? how much do you normally lose on the way to the wheels...

Probably around 180-185 on average for a stock Type 2, with a 6 spd tending to be a bit higher than an automatic. 15% is a rough estimate of power lost between the flywheel and the wheels, every car will be different though. A lot of factors will affect this (drivetrain layout, synthetic fluids, etc).

 

Wow, great gains! Can't wait to see others. I want these headers bad. Stupid college...

Probably around 180-185 on average for a stock Type 2, with a 6 spd tending to be a bit higher than an automatic. 15% is a rough estimate of power lost between the flywheel and the wheels, every car will be different though. A lot of factors will affect this (drivetrain layout, synthetic fluids, etc).

So, when can we expect a dyno from you with headers?

 

I would say about 15% of your power lose from the crank to the wheel due to weight, wind resistance and part in the tranny that transfer the power to the wheel.

Honda automatics usually have a 18-22% driveline loss.

DV8 there is no way in hell i could run less hps than the stock motor. I mean the type 2 should have 200-230hp stock. how could he be running less then 200hps. i think somethings wrong with the dino.

You have no idea what you are talking about. Have you ever looked at the dyno thread? There is a driveline loss of 15% - 25% depending on the vehicle in ANY car. All automakers rate their horsepower at the crank, not at the wheels. EVERY CAR dynos less than the "stock HP" when they are near stock. There are a few exceptions to this (mostly vettes) but thats about it.

 

So, when can we expect a dyno from you with headers?

Haha, good question. If I get these, I'll be running a reworked y-pipe, which is something that may come about in the future.

 

Looking good blkonblkcpe, appreciate the feedback. My stock numbers are here: http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=44640&page=8.

 

Christian how big is the collector on your headers?

What's going to kill these numbers in the long run is a lack of tuning. If we can't mess around with our air/fuel ratio, we've never going to get optimal gains. I'm sure with proper tuning, blkonblk would have cleared 200whp and gotten around 190tq easily

2.5 collector off the headers, the Y pipes i have are a 2in. and a 2.25in. Im going to dyno the 2in. sometime in the future to compare and contrast

The AFC does a great job tuning the A/F. Its F/I power that needs a standalone, or any power over 250-260WHP. I say a Bayou stage two or a similar knock off and hes got 200WHP no problem. The AFC in his current condition would do litte being that there arent many mods to take advantage of the tunability. Look at the A/F graph, its pretty nice in its stock form.

Probably around 180-185 on average for a stock Type 2, with a 6 spd tending to be a bit higher than an automatic. 15% is a rough estimate of power lost between the flywheel and the wheels, every car will be different though. A lot of factors will affect this (drivetrain layout, synthetic fluids, etc).

Ive always been a fan of 18-20% loss for a Auto and 15-17 for a manual. or you could use 18 as the universal number.

Stock TYPE I auto is around 170
Stock TYPEII manual is around 180

Heres a real old dyno of my car for you to compare to, same setup as John but i added a bayou chip and an AFC. Intake greddy catback, TYPE II topend(heads,I.E. Manifold ETC.) AUTO. No headers no Y pipe stock (Big) cat.

Bayou Vs. Stock ECU's

AFC tuned to the bayou.

~Dv8

 

Yo DV8 can you try to shoot some pics up of the top of the headers mounted and possibly your exhaust setup??

 

Yo DV8 can you try to shoot some pics up of the top of the headers mounted and possibly your exhaust setup??

Everything i have avalible for public viewing is on mywebsite below.
Im' not the one with the OBX headers if thats what your looking to see.

~Dv8

 

I see that there MAY be a 15-18 wheel horsepower gain. These numbers come from the comparison of blkonblk's dyno with the two dynos on page 1, thai's and 95Lcoupes. I know that they are both auto, but I was wondering if these two were both type 2's? Anyways, I was also wondering whether or not the same gains can be expected from a type 1?

 

I see that there MAY be a 15-18 wheel horsepower gain. These numbers come from the comparison of blkonblk's dyno with the two dynos on page 1, thai's and 95Lcoupes. I know that they are both auto, but I was wondering if these two were both type 2's? Anyways, I was also wondering whether or not the same gains can be expected from a type 1?

Yes, they are both type II. This was not compared to type Is, as there are quite a few differences, and the type Is usually having lower hp, and a bit higher torque. From the look of it, the headers dont "lose" much tq, but they do gain hp. Looks like they broadened his torque band as well as possibly shifting it slightly upward, and it is almost flat (good thing) a wide flat torque curve is good.

and just as a note feel free to pm me, but i like leaving discussion out here for the benifit of the community. and no i am not e-stalking you, i am studying for a test, and keep checking my subscribed threads.

 

So, yeah I cant wait for the headers to be tried out on a type 1. The horesepower to torque ratio will be an interesting bit of info.

 

Something interesting!
I have new flanges made that will be closer to having a port match after you weld in the primaries! Maybe it is pinching hp but I am doing it for the next round of turbo stuff.... Stock is 1.5 right? And so are my manifolds. I have these punched out to 1.75 and have the template! Honestly I just ordered 2 sets...cant say for what.
Secondly...if I had a set of these headers it would probably be really easy to create an all out drag header with larger primaries and everything else! With what I am doing next this could be crazy legend stuff!
Food for thought anyhow!
Let me know if anyone wants some flanges!
Later, Kyle

 

ac compressor does not come on for heat

 

dam now i want to get mine on soon as i get some time and try it out..

 

Battle the torque loss with an upgraded final drive!

If bonb is still using the stock b-pipe, he's see further gains when he switches that out. Isn't his car a type 1 with a type 2 engine? I heard the b-pipe on the type 1's is very restrictive.

My opinion is simply this:

Its a great mod for the money, if any other headers come out like this obx with bigger diameters and collectors, they will rein supreme.
It will be much easier now, for everyone here to reach and go over the 200WHP mark with these headers. However TQ will suffer for the 3.2 liter guys. I know Kenso has 203WTQ but, he also has stock exhaust manifolds and stock TYPE II catback exhaust to help that number out.

Based on my dyno experience I cant imagine John's car had any more than 185WHP, so he esentially gained 12WHP with headers and no cat.

Get a bayou chip man, and watch that number fly over 200WHP easy.

~Dv8

 

I just went to my muffler shop in marin county, quoted me 60 bucks for a 2.5 inch B pipe made and installed, now reading this thread im getting mixed signals, some say stay with the orginal b pipe and do the headers and what not, some say go all out and do the b pipe and headers, which is better if someone can clarifiy , cause i know to much can really choked the engine, and to little i won't be able to feel a dam thing. 60 bucks is a really good deal though

 

I just went to my muffler shop in marin county, quoted me 60 bucks for a 2.5 inch B pipe made and installed, now reading this thread im getting mixed signals, some say stay with the orginal b pipe and do the headers and what not, some say go all out and do the b pipe and headers, which is better if someone can clarifiy , cause i know to much can really choked the engine, and to little i won't be able to feel a dam thing. 60 bucks is a really good deal though

answer is this first:
You still rollin with the 3 in catback exhaust?

~Dv8

 

for now i do have exhast , I just bought the Remus Legend spec, so ill be adding it to the system soon as i get everything bolted and welded in. Right now im looking for a place for the headers, O and by the way, i already knew this before i bought them but the Obx headers are not smog legal in cali, just thought i put that out there if anyone from from cal was wondering

 

Should have port matched the header flange. I did mine and I will have to go to Vegas to get dynoed to see if that works better. The header flanges are a lot smaller than the head exhaust port.

 

ac compressor does not come on for heat

unless you have it on front windshield defrost, then it kicks the compressor on. Dyno is interesting, def a nice improvement over stock. But let me get this straight, these OBX headers aren't port matched? Are you telling me that the primarys are overlapping on the head port holes? Maybe i didn't read that right.

 

unless you have it on front windshield defrost, then it kicks the compressor on. Dyno is interesting, def a nice improvement over stock. But let me get this straight, these OBX headers aren't port matched? Are you telling me that the primarys are overlapping on the head port holes? Maybe i didn't read that right.

You're right. The compressor comes on any time dehumidification is needed. In many cars the AC compressor runs while the climate control is set to heat (defrost or not), but I cannot say that for the Legend although it is a possibility.

 

The ECU cuts power to the compressor clutch at wide open throttle, so that shouldn't be a factor.

 

The ECU cuts power to the compressor clutch at wide open throttle, so that shouldn't be a factor.

Wow, and here I was cutting off the AC when I raced.

 

Wow, and here I was cutting off the AC when I raced.

well there is always a little lag time so its better to have it off anyways.