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Bose Premium in my '95 GS: need some 'splaining

846 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  NYTAHOE
Hey Y'all,

So my Bose Premium stereo sounds like crap, and I'm too poor to do a whole system overhaul. So can somebody explain to me what the most likely problem(s) is/are?

I hear that the amps are a common culprit. But would that make the speakers sounds a little like they're blown? Or seemingly delete mid-range frequencies to one channel or another?

Because its Bose, that means 4-ohm system vs more typical 8-ohm right? (maybe the numbers are wrong, but the idea is right, right?) So I'd have to get ohm-matching speakers to replace the stock speakers, right? Has anyone just replaced the amp and had it sound good again? Doing amp and speakers is starting to get to be a bit much, and makes me think I'd be better off replacing the HU and the speakers and by-passing the amp altogether. I wouldn't mind replacing the HU, but don't want to lose the steering wheel controls.

Can somebody council me?, or linky me to the answer? I'm a little overwhelmed by the volume of results when I do a search.

Thanks for any help.
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new speaker but sounds like its in the hu
Bose system are 2 ohms and there are only a few speakers on the market that will work. I just replaced all my speakers with Infinity and the sound is excellent (I'll try to give the info below). If you want to have your head unit repaired, there is a company in FLA. that specializes in Bose audio (link is below). I would start by replacing the speakers and going from there. It is a shame at how crap ass the Bose spkrs. in our cars are. A t-shirt is thicker than the material that they use. Like you, I chose to stick with stock because I love the SW controls and wanted to keep it simple. There are other options, but the cost can become too much.

NOTE: The 2 companies I know of are Infinity and JBL. They supply audio to Toyota's and Chrysler vehicles that run 2 ohm systems.
Thanks for info. But I gots more questions.

I'm not sure I see my problem in the trouble shooting. The sound is very flat, and seems to not play certain frequencies on the left channel. From the looks of that multi-amp amplifier trouble shooting, I'm wondering if maybe the trouble is there.

However, I'm sure the speakers really are made from cheap components. And being 17 years old probably ain't helping. If you replace the 6x9's with those Infinities, do you just disconnect the separate tweeters in the back deck?

Then, there's the display on the HU that's out... And the "clean" light is on. Not that I'm playing a lot of cassettes these days. I hope that doesn't mean amp and HU need repair, plus new speakers...

Can an iPod be plugged into the cd changer input? Then I could get rid of the cd changer.
Your problem could be with both the amp and HU. The amp controls the channel separation and the sound dispersed to the HU. The non working display on the HU is common (the repair shop addresses that issue). In regards to the tweeters, I don't have them and will only assume that those have no bearings on removing the 6x9's. If you do install the Infinity's, you will have to remove the rear shock cover (on top) to make the spkr. sit flush. The magnet is larger than the OEM Bose. The CLEAN LIGHT is on advising you that the deck is dirty. Depending on the type of tapes used in the past (Metal), this is common. Metal tapes leave metal fragments on the heads and your deck has to be DEMAGNETIZED. You can get one from Radio Shack for a few bucks and that should fix that issue (ask for a Tape De-magnetizer). There are options for your Ipod, some cheaper than others. The cheapest being a TAPE ADAPTER that plugs into the headphone jack on the Ipod and the deck. Others on the market can range from $80 - $200, those utilize the CD changer input on the HU. I use the tape adapter and it's fine for now. Others can chime in about other options.
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Good info, thanks. I've got one if those cassette iPod things now. Works well enough, and the price is right, but just seems a little makeshift. And I'd figured that the clean light must be a de-mag thing, as when I use tape, they're all Maxell tapes with head cleaner leaders. I've actually got a demagnetizer but need to get a button type battery for it.

Interesting about the rear strut cap having to be removed or whatever to deal with the magnet. The car seems just like my house where one simple repair or improvement leads to an endless series of other sh*t that needs to be done, fixed, replaced... I'll probably end up not doin nuthin, as I've got plenty of other stuff to soak up my time, and money.

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LOL... I agree, these rides are like homes. The small things seem to always turn into a project that requires time & money. I had to take out a 2nd. mortgage in order to keep my ride for the past 8yrs (LOL). There is nothing cheap about owning this type of ride.
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