I know you don't want to hear it, but if your car had anywhere between 60K miles and 100K miles, that is prime time for brake master cylinder failure. The fluid will be high and no leak, as it is an internal leak. It usually showns signs just after a nice brake fuid bleed job since you now have all clean fuid and no dirt is there to help minimize the leak. Anyway, I would be happy if it really were my brake master cylinder as that is an easy fix. ALL brake master cylinders on todays cars will go out eventually.
brake concern
when im comming to a light for example and i apply the brake the pedal seems to go down to far but when i let up and brake again to feels alot stronger...i know im gonna get alot of leaky master cylinder responces but my fluid isnt going down and i did that test thing(held the brake so its just keeping the car stopped from idle to see if it is losing pressure and it dident start to slip) i did bleed my brakes a few months back and i did paint my brakes calipers and i think some paint was on the disk when i drove would that get on the pad and cause problems?
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what are some for sure ways to find out? and how much is a master cylinder ?
I agree with ChristK, it is most likely your master cylinder. With no leaks and the symptoms that you describe, it could hardly be anything else.
When you bled your brakes, did you use the procedure where you pumped the pedal all the way to the floor? Doing that caused the piston in the master cylinder to travel farther down the cylinder bore then you experience during normal braking. It could cause the rubber seals on the piston to be damaged if there is trash or pitting in the cylinder bore.
Some bleed procedures recommend putting a block under the brake pedal so that it cannot go to the floor. I prefer to use a vacuum bleed kit ( like the MightyMite) that you can get from places like JC Whitney. Sometimes I have to put a flexible gasket sealant in the threads of the bleed screw to keep from drawing in air past the threads.
Some places like NAPA carry master cylinder rebuild kits at a fraction of the price of a new or rebuilt master cylinder. It seems that many people do not like them, but I have used them successfully in cases where the cylinder bore was not pitted.
When you bled your brakes, did you use the procedure where you pumped the pedal all the way to the floor? Doing that caused the piston in the master cylinder to travel farther down the cylinder bore then you experience during normal braking. It could cause the rubber seals on the piston to be damaged if there is trash or pitting in the cylinder bore.
Some bleed procedures recommend putting a block under the brake pedal so that it cannot go to the floor. I prefer to use a vacuum bleed kit ( like the MightyMite) that you can get from places like JC Whitney. Sometimes I have to put a flexible gasket sealant in the threads of the bleed screw to keep from drawing in air past the threads.
Some places like NAPA carry master cylinder rebuild kits at a fraction of the price of a new or rebuilt master cylinder. It seems that many people do not like them, but I have used them successfully in cases where the cylinder bore was not pitted.
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