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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently put on my Brembo Cross Dtrilled and Slotted rotors and I was just wondering if any of you that have installed these thought that the Brembo's were significantly heavier than the OEM rotors. I still have yet to weigh the OEM ones but it feels that the Brembo's may have been a good 5 lbs heavier. So much for reducing the weight (Rotational Mass). I am definately dissappointed in the rotors. I still have yet to put on my SS lines and bleed the lines which I konw will make the biggest difference, but it seems as the X-Drilled and Slotted rotors are definately overrated. They seem to stop a little bit better, but overall, with a braking improvement close to none and such a performance loss due to the increase in the weight, I must suggest that people save up and get 2-piece rotors such as the AEM's or Wilwood kits. Anythinng else really isnt worth the money. :(
 

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Broken Angel said:
I just recently put on my Brembo Cross Dtrilled and Slotted rotors and I was just wondering if any of you that have installed these thought that the Brembo's were significantly heavier than the OEM rotors. I still have yet to weigh the OEM ones but it feels that the Brembo's may have been a good 5 lbs heavier. So much for reducing the weight (Rotational Mass). I am definately dissappointed in the rotors. I still have yet to put on my SS lines and bleed the lines which I konw will make the biggest difference, but it seems as the X-Drilled and Slotted rotors are definately overrated. They seem to stop a little bit better, but overall, with a braking improvement close to none and such a performance loss due to the increase in the weight, I must suggest that people save up and get 2-piece rotors such as the AEM's or Wilwood kits. Anythinng else really isnt worth the money. :(
What pads did you install with it, I have those rotors on my car and it made a big difference. I also have SS line and that wont really improve braking as much is it just stiffens up the pedal. I hope you put new pads on, you need to make sure to allow 3-500 mile for the rotors to harden up so they don't warp, so stick it out and driver like a granny until you hit that number.
 

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Dont kill me... I put on some Bendix pads (temporarily), I know, factory pads on FORD. What a mistake, but they are only for a month. I just dont think they are that good. Its abvious that the x-drilled and slots in the rotors really only dissipate heat, making less brake fade, but that would be under harsh braking. Normal braking really should not improve that much, the imrpvement is mostly from the bleeding the lines and a smaller amount is credited to the SS lines, and the least affect on the better braking would be due to the rotors. What does anyone else think?
 

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I've heard alot of people say that when they put either slotted or cross drilled rotors on their cars, they don't feel a difference at all until the rotors break in. I know a few people who said their car had worse breaking when they installed the new rotors than stock, but after about a month, the breaking performance improved dramatically. Just hold out for a few hundred miles until they brake in, then I'm sure you'll begin to notice a major difference
 

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You are not going to feels a difference from rotors. Pads, and to some degree SS lines, make the most difference. The rotors may keep the pads a bit cleaner, but generally, a solid rotor is actually more effective (more surface area to disipate heat). X-drilled are for looks only :)
 

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Cross drilled rotors do make a difference. When the brake pad touches the rotor, it creates friction which in turn creates heat. This also causes gas to build up between the pad and the rotor. This gas actually pushes the pad away from the rotor, and therefor causes less contact between the two. Cross drilled or slotted rotors vents the gas from between rotor and pad, and in turn causes better contact between pad and rotor. Better contact between the rotor and pad will cause better braking.
 

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Same here: when I got my setup (FYI-My Setup: Dimpled/slotted rotors/EBC Greenstuff Pads/SS lines). It took about 300 miles for everything to break in. Now I can literally stop whenever I want to. Doing 80 mph braking is nice smooth and quick. All my friends love my car because it is the only one the stops fast. Go figure? Anywho the best money I have spent on my car. There should of been a couple of times that I wound up in someones trunk.
 

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SuperCoupe93 said:
Cross drilled rotors do make a difference. When the brake pad touches the rotor, it creates friction which in turn creates heat. This also causes gas to build up between the pad and the rotor. This gas actually pushes the pad away from the rotor, and therefor causes less contact between the two. Cross drilled or slotted rotors vents the gas from between rotor and pad, and in turn causes better contact between pad and rotor. Better contact between the rotor and pad will cause better braking.
Outgassing is not a major issue anymore in modern brake systems. If you'll notice, the Legend brake pads design have already taken outgassing in to account by having a vertical slot in the middle of the pad. Any outgassing is being vented via this slot.

Since all rotors for the legend (non-drilled, x-drilled, or slotted) are made of cast iron, that means they all have the same coefficient of friction. Without increasing the size of the rotor, the frictional surface areas are the same. If you stay with oem size rotors, the only way to increase friction is to change the brake pads. Aftermarket high performance bake pads typically have a higher coefficient of friction. That's why when you upgrade to aftermarket pads, there is a more "grabby" sensation during initial braking. If you change your rotors to x-drilled/slotted without upgrading your pads, you'll see no improvement in stopping distance.

Having said all that, the most effective way to shorten your stopping distance is to upgrade your tires. The larger your tire contact patch is the more traction you'll have to stop the car.

P.S.
To get the most out of your new rotors and pads, always break them in, season the rotors, and/or bed the pads. See link for procedure.
 

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Broken Angel said:
Dont kill me... I put on some Bendix pads (temporarily), I know, factory pads on FORD. What a mistake, but they are only for a month. I just dont think they are that good. Its abvious that the x-drilled and slots in the rotors really only dissipate heat, making less brake fade, but that would be under harsh braking. Normal braking really should not improve that much, the imrpvement is mostly from the bleeding the lines and a smaller amount is credited to the SS lines, and the least affect on the better braking would be due to the rotors. What does anyone else think?
That could be a HUGE mistake, if you don't put new pads with new rotors then the "track" thet the used pads made on your olds rotors is now going to be on your new rotors, it could trash them. Or when you finally put on new pads the rotors will have conformed to the used rotors and with the new one the will squeak and you wont be able to fix that unless you have the rotors turned at a machine shop, which should have been done before you put them on and will cost more money. You can't just walk into a brake shop and have D/S rotors turned, they will get trashed if the shop even tries. GOOD LUCK, your going to need it.
 

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Legend93 said:
Outgassing is not a major issue anymore in modern brake systems. If you'll notice, the Legend brake pads design have already taken outgassing in to account by having a vertical slot in the middle of the pad. Any outgassing is being vented via this slot.

snip...
Great info ... I was about to post the same :)
 

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Ok after reading this post, there are allot of Un-True statement's.


First off, I have Cross Drilled & Slotted Bradi Rotor's on my G1

Stainless Steel Lines

Wagner Ceramic Thermo-Quiet Pads


During the first 300miles my braking was near stock and Temperature sensitive (colder weather, it wouldnt hardly stop on the first stop) There was also vibration and noise.

I followed Seasoning proceedure's (annoying, but worth it)


Now I have a few thousond miles on the brake setup and I love it! High Speed Braking is Confident and Powerfull unlike before where I was scared to death bringing the legend down from 100+ (allmost rear ended a few cars)

Noise is Silent now and vibration is gone.

I dont know about the brembo's but the Bradi's I got felt near the same weight as the OEM's except maybe slighly lighter but it was a small margin, but a margin none-the-less.

After I got em all dialed in, I can say the money spent was WELL WORTH IT, and these brakes have gotten me out of allot of tight jams on the highway latly (damn winter drivers)

But the bottom line is, Performance brake's are designed to improve PERFORMANCE BRAKING IN PERFORMANCE DRIVING, you WILL NOT notice hardly any Improvment over stock with Performance Brakes in Regular Driving, except better pedal feel. But during Performance Driving these brakes make all the difference in the world.

I've raced my legend many times and a popular run was a Road Course me and a few friend's have in the country (they have street bikes) We race out there all the time and the road is filled with insane corners, hills, bends, hair pins, etc. My OEM brakes would allways hold me back and keep me woundering if I was ever going to be able to setup for the next corner as I was coming up on it at 90+mph. Now with the new brakes its like I'm driving a totally different car! My brakes no longer hold me back and braking into a turn from 90+mph is no problem.

I've got video of us racing and with the way my car is setup right now, I can stay with them all the way down minus a long streight away.

They have Yamaha R6's! And they are amazed how I can stay with them for a majority of the time.

Performance Part's WORK if you use them for PERFORMANCE applications!
 

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Steveman09 said:
Ok after reading this post, there are allot of Un-True statement's.

First off, I have Cross Drilled & Slotted Bradi Rotor's on my G1

Stainless Steel Lines

Wagner Ceramic Thermo-Quiet Pads

During the first 300miles my braking was near stock and Temperature sensitive (colder weather, it wouldnt hardly stop on the first stop) There was also vibration and noise.

I followed Seasoning proceedure's (annoying, but worth it)

Now I have a few thousond miles on the brake setup and I love it! High Speed Braking is Confident and Powerfull unlike before where I was scared to death bringing the legend down from 100+ (allmost rear ended a few cars)

Noise is Silent now and vibration is gone.

I dont know about the brembo's but the Bradi's I got felt near the same weight as the OEM's except maybe slighly lighter but it was a small margin, but a margin none-the-less.

After I got em all dialed in, I can say the money spent was WELL WORTH IT, and these brakes have gotten me out of allot of tight jams on the highway latly (damn winter drivers)

But the bottom line is, Performance brake's are designed to improve PERFORMANCE BRAKING IN PERFORMANCE DRIVING, you WILL NOT notice hardly any Improvment over stock with Performance Brakes in Regular Driving, except better pedal feel. But during Performance Driving these brakes make all the difference in the world.

I've raced my legend many times and a popular run was a Road Course me and a few friend's have in the country (they have street bikes) We race out there all the time and the road is filled with insane corners, hills, bends, hair pins, etc. My OEM brakes would allways hold me back and keep me woundering if I was ever going to be able to setup for the next corner as I was coming up on it at 90+mph. Now with the new brakes its like I'm driving a totally different car! My brakes no longer hold me back and braking into a turn from 90+mph is no problem.

I've got video of us racing and with the way my car is setup right now, I can stay with them all the way down minus a long streight away.

They have Yamaha R6's! And they are amazed how I can stay with them for a majority of the time.

Performance Part's WORK if you use them for PERFORMANCE applications!
Where did you find these rotors? Are they matching front and rear? How much?
Later!
Lee
 

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$429 total cost for :

(4) Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotor's
(4) Wagner Ceramic Brake Pads
(4) Steel Braided Brake Lines
(1) Can of RED Brake Caliper Paint
(1) Bottle of DOT4 Synthedic Performance Brake Fluid
 
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