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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

Im getting my Konis installed this week (93 LS Coupe, 142000 miles)

Im going for the middle perch on the rear Konis & the lowest perch on the front Konis. (just what I want, stock sedan look)

I have had problems with tires in the past.

Front tires show lots more wear on insides.
Rear tires also more wear on insides, not as much as the fronts tho.

Is this coz of negative camber ?

Should I get camber kits ?

What r the permutations & combinations here ?

Thanks all.
 
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vrb747 said:
Front tires show lots more wear on insides.
Rear tires also more wear on insides, not as much as the fronts tho. Is this coz of negative camber ? Should I get camber kits ? What r the permutations & combinations here ?
My tires were doing this too before I changed all my suspension stuff. Your problem is probably that your springs are worn. I think that that is what my problem was. Basically what happens is that you springs wear and then they sag so your car is lower which causes more negative camber, but I'm not 100% sure about this. It would probably be a good idea for you to pick up some Eibach's too. If you want to counter what the Eibachs do then just set the front on the middle perch, and the rears on the top perch (that would make it look pretty much like how you wanted it). I say just lower it though and do it lowest all the way around, I have no clearance problems with mine like that. You should get the camber kits though, yes. You would probably be most happy with the 3573's for the front since they are rubber and wouldn't have to be lubricated as much and are closest to stock.

I have the high performance polyurethane 3572 Ingalls though and love them. Ride is a little tighter, but you have to lubricate them more often (like every few thousand miles).
 

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You shouldn't need a camber kit on the rear. You will need one on the front for certain. I am pusing mine out 1.25" inches in the front with an Ingalls kit which I have been happy with. On 235/40/r17, koni's on the lowest perch in front and eibachs I don't rub with or without the Ingalls kit.
 

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Hey guys im going to replace my Master cylinder and was wondering which company was better? Nippon or Adler ??
Any input?? The problem im having is that my brakes are engaging when i dont press on teh pedal. I was told the master cylinder is probably shot!

Thanks
Mugen Mtx-2
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tire wear

Why do my tires (all four) wear on the insides ? Is it my

Shocks or
Springs or
Camber

Cant be the alignment, had it checked at 2 different shops

My front tires show a horrible amount of wear (more than the rears) on the insides (really bad)
Lowering the front on Konis is going tomake this worse right ?

So what should I do. Dont do anything on the rears inspite of the tire wear on the insides ? Im not going to lower the rears, keep it factory height.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi Leon

How u doing

I got Konis from Gil already & am going to install them soon.

Just wanted to know what else I should change, since Im gonna pay about 250 bucks for the Koni install, might as well change the springs & install the camber kit if need be.

So far Im gonna change my shocks to Konis (all four) & get a camber kit for the front as Im going to drop the front only

Front -------- Konis Lowest perch
Rears ------- Konis Middle (factory setting) perch

How do I check my springs ?

Does anyone know how much the OEM springs (all 4) ?
Anything comparable to the OEM springs ? Dont really need Eibachs or H&Rs unless they r cheaper than OEM

BTW I get an alignment every 4 to 5 months coz I have a 3 year service agreement for those (120 bucks). I also had my alignment checked 2 months ago at two other shope that say everything is in specs.

93 LS Coupe 142000 miles

Thanks all for bearing with me:eek:
 
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I think that you should drop the front and the rear evenly, especially if you aren't using any high performance springs. Your problem is going to be that Acura designed the car to sit a certain way for optimum handling performance. If your center of gravity isn't real low and you start messing with it by lowering the front almost another inch I think you are going to get quite a bit of oversteer or something like that.

If you think about it, you might as well just lower the back too.

Also, someone said something about no need for a rear camber kit. That isn't true, get one for sure. They are only like $8 a side or something like that for the Ingalls one. They are just a bunch of washers and a new bolt that can be used as shims basically.
 

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sorry VRB, you should also know that the OEM springs prob cost the same if not more than H/R or Eibachs. Might as well get some performance out of it, right? Trust me, well worth it, EVEN if you are not going to push your car hard. Once you do it, I must warn you, the MOD BUG WILL GET YOU :D
 

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I see nothing wrong with putting the Eibach on the low perch and in front and in the middle for the rear. I used to run that set up and it was good. I also see nothing wrong with using OEM springs on the Konis with the front set on the low perch and the rear in the middle perch. I currently run that set up as well. You will need an alignment and a camber kit. I needed a camber kit using my OEM/Konis as is. If you need new OEM springs, I suggest getting the Eibach. I originally wanted Eibachs again after giving up my R-Spec springs (Too low), but I didn't want to spend the money so I used the OEM springs.

If your tires are wearing on the inner part, it is 3 things. Either you have too much negetive camber, too much toe out, or a combination of both. If you had worn shocks, you would usually get a rounding or sorts I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bear with me please

ChrisK, Ive had my alignment checked 3 times at three different shops in the last 6 months. Each time its been within specs, so we can rule out the "toe" thingy

So negative camber is the culprit ? Wouldnt they check that in an alignment ?

What about the worn shocks causing roundouts ? What does that mean ?

Leon, he he:D the MOD bug bit me 4 months ago. I was safe for 4 years, but now I too have fallen:D ;)
 
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Yeah, the range is actually pretty huge that is tollerable, and if you are at the extremes all over the map then you are still going ot be pretty screwed up. My guy got everything just the way I wanted it, right on the money. I paid a hell of a lot though for my allignment. I took it back to him a second time and asked him to change the camber in the front and he did it for free. He thought my camber should be posivitve, cause when the shocks compress that way it wouldn't be to negative. Well, with the camber kits set positive up front it caused the upper control arms to hit the insides of the wheel wells. I grinded the control arms down and then he set my camber to like -.25 from +.25.
 

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SpeedDemon said:
I think that you should drop the front and the rear evenly, especially if you aren't using any high performance springs. Your problem is going to be that Acura designed the car to sit a certain way for optimum handling performance. If your center of gravity isn't real low and you start messing with it by lowering the front almost another inch I think you are going to get quite a bit of oversteer or something like that.

If you think about it, you might as well just lower the back too.

Also, someone said something about no need for a rear camber kit. That isn't true, get one for sure. They are only like $8 a side or something like that for the Ingalls one. They are just a bunch of washers and a new bolt that can be used as shims basically.
Where can you get a rear camber kit for a 95 4 dr Legend. I know i need a set because i had to buy two new back tires for my car because the tires wore down unevenly in the inside of the tire. I have had the car aligned twice and i can still see the tire tilting. I just put some 18" on and i dont want my ties to go bad when i i know i can to somethig to can fix them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks everyone

Im resigned to live this problem

Hey my car still drives great:)

I checked my last alignment specs & theyre pretty good, not at the extremes as u suggested Aaron

My mech checked the springs and says they seem to be ok

Thank u every one for ur inputs

Ive decided to do :

Front Koni - Low perch
Rear Koni - Mid perch (factory)
Get the Ingalls for the front

Live with the results:(

Man they charge an arm & a leg to install the Konis (400 bucks all 4 corners, yup the price went up from 250, ****)

Thanks again, all
Vishal
 

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Re: Thanks everyone

vrb747 said:
Ive decided to do :

Front Koni - Low perch
Rear Koni - Mid perch (factory)
Get the Ingalls for the front

Live with the results:(
Hmmm .. maybe H&R springs are different, but when I put the rears on the middle perch, the car looked like it was doing a nose dive. I have lowest in the rear, and upper in the front, and it sits level (again, with H&R's ... not sure about stock)

Man they charge an arm & a leg to install the Konis (400 bucks all 4 corners, yup the price went up from 250, ****)
That is a plain rip job, dude. I got quotes for $200 Canadian last year. Ended up doing it myself for $0 (and a day worth of work)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Tell me about it

Im looking for a new acura honda specialist as of now!!

Live in fort lauderdale, so anyone in Palm Beach, Dade or Broward gimme a good shop
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Dayyyymmmnnnnn

30 bucks a corner ???????????

Man u lucky

The Chilton manual says 2.5 hrs for the rears & 2 hrs for the front. At 50 bucks an hour tht still works out to about 250 bucks. No way im paying more than that tho. These idiots out here dont seem to know **** about acuras

Well, the search for "The One" goes on.
 
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