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I took my control arms, cut them and welded plates underneath, cut elongated holes on both ends and put bolts in. I took the car to a shop and they got the alignment perfect, with 2 1/2 drop using a CL coilover kit.
 

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I will try to get some soon, it's really not that hard to do, a plate gets welded to the top side of the control arm after you cut it in half. When you cut it, keep in mind one side will be welded and the other side will have the elongated holes. you want the holes on the larger side, towards the body. I used 3/8 stainless steel bolts and lock nuts with washers. Once the alignment was complete I tack welded the plate to the other unwelded end to keep it from moving, just incase. I hope this helps.
 

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thats called abdul the butcher, the factory manual does not say to bend anything to get it back into spec, I have 10 honda and acura FACTORY manuals, not hanes manuals and none of them say anywhere to bend anything on the suspension.

Coil overs are tl, but some cl coil overs work if they have different spring rates for the front and rear.
 

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thats good that it worked, but by bending a piece of cast iron like the knuckle, it actually weakens the metal. If you ever install factory springs, chances are it will be off and have to be bent back, further weakening the knucle. One thing I have noticed about all honda's, the are one of the best built cars on earth, but the are also one of the most sensitive also. If you don't use a good quality replacement parts or do crappy work to them, you will notice it in there performance.
 

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You didn't say he heated the knuckle, that does help the metal retain is strength. A cold bend is the worst thing you can do to cast iron, a hot bend is not bad at all.
 

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When you first posted about the knuckle bend you didn't mention that the shop heated it to bend it. It doesn't matter if it's forged or cast, a cold bend does weaken metal alot more than a hot bend. Has for cutting the upper control arm, I didn't bend and it doesn't have the stresses a front knuckle has. It's your car.
 

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easy there chuckles, go to car domain and look up a 90 acura legend in Michigan, I think it's the only one. BUT, I did forget to take a pic of that specific item. I think I have one laying around, If I find it I'll take pics, Ok.
 

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right now I'm running a wear test, the right upper control arm(in the pic) is stock, the left one is cut and welded. I want to see how much tire wear will be different between the 2.
 

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the other side is welded, I put a stock one on this side to see if the tire wear will different, and if so how much.
 

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easy there chuckles, I'm putting in a complete exhaust on a ford f150. It should be done friday, sat I have rotate the rubber so I will get you pics then, OK?
 

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Dude, I'm really sorry, but on saturday an incredible deal fell on my lap. I was going to fix a guy's legend and he brought it over on sat. Well after talking to him he decided not to fix it but sell it. He asked if I wanted to buy it, I said yeah right, he said $250. Well after I got up and cleaned my shorts I went to the atm and gave him the money for an 88 legend coupe, almost no rust. needs a little work but I have a jap engine waiting for it. I will get pics as soon as possible.
 

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I don't know if you noticed but I do live in MI, it stands for MICHIGAN, cold, snow, wind chill factors. I will get the pics or I will modify another one for you guys, If you have a 2g legend, won't the after market arms fit? The 1g legends don't have the same uppers. I will get to it.
 

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lol, ok, I'll work on getting them today, maybe. They say it's going to be 42 today, that might be warm enough to rotate rubber outside.
 
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