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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car is smooth when I accelerate or when I keep my foot on the accelerator. But whenever I let off the accelerator, my car would shake a little. This happens are high and low speeds, sometime it shakes quiet a bit. The car also shakes when I'm put it in park and let it idle.

I would think it's the rear tranny mount, but I replaced my rear tranny mount at Acura 2 years ago. Could it have gone bad again so quickly? Also how much work is involved in replace the mount? Can a indepedent mechanic replace it if I get the parts?

Thanks in Advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
LegendOwner said:
Whens the last time you had an oil change? tune up? what's your car idle at? Yes any mechanic can change the tranny mount.
My last oil change and tune up were both at Acura when I did the 90k service along with my Timing belt and water pump. When the car is not stalling, the car idles perfectly are 700rpms
 

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I'm not a mechanic, but if it shakes and stalls both and idles at 700 I would think it's to low. I can't speak for everyone else on this site but my car idles at 1300 when cold and about 900-1000 when warm. What does everyone elses car idle at? Does it do it at high rpm's also? did it start doing it right after the timing belt change?
 

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yeah, my car idels at 900 normally. but WhiteLegend, try checking the oil, and make sure the engine is stable... i think its called the engine mount... is that the same as tranny mount? any who... i hope you get that fixed... i noticed that my car started to shake when ideling when Acura told me my cylinder was cracked... but it could've been psychological.


peace~
 

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Call me a jack-ass but its possible that you could have two different problems... I didnt read all the posts in depth but I would definately take advantage of a tune-up, check the timing and have it hooked up to a diagnostics machine to check and be sure that all the sensors are working properly.... As for the shaking when you take your foot off the accelerator, I had this happen to and come to find out I had a bent wheel... So have the wheels checked out and perhaps a rotation and balance
 

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yeah this could be many problems couldn't it? timing? fuel injectors, even a bad spark boot? A diagnosis would be helpfull but if the check engine light isn't on will anything show up on the diagnosis?
 

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You need to be a bit more specific. Does it "shake" constantly or does it "stumble"?
With the vehicle not under load and in park, I would suspect a fuel related problem. A bad coil should cause a code to be set. Could also be a blocked injector. A bad mount would be evidenced only under driving/load. When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced or the Throttle Body cleaned? Same for the spark plugs. Pull them and inspect their condition. My rear trans mount was defective at 58k miles. You can buy the trans mount at discount and have anyone install it. You should also order the two self-locking nuts, bolts and springs as well as a new sealing gasket as the exhaust piping must be disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok, Yesterday I cleaned the Throttle body today using a choke and carb spray, and I poured a fuel injector cleaner into the fuel. It ran fine yesterday, but today, it started to act up again.

Ok, here are the conditions it the car is acting up:

When in Idle, the idle is erratic, it jumps from 300-500rpm and surges. The car would also have a light shake constantly

When driving at a constant speed and accelerating, car would stumble, the gas would cut out and come back again. It would do this a lot.
When I floor the car, it would downshifts then shift back really quick. Before it would down shift, then let the RPM go to about 5000 then shift back.


I'm starting to think it's my transimission going bad, maybe the stumbling I'm feeling is the transimission shifting in and out of gear.

What do you guys think?
 

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Is the problem manifested when when the vehicle is cold or at operating temp? Is the check engine lamp ON indicating a code?
Does the Check Engine lamp activate for about 2 seconds when you initially start the vehicle and then shut off? Check this and then report back.

Not to make your life more miserable, but please consider buying a HELM Service Manual. You need it for any DIY repairs.

Awaiting your update.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
LPB said:
Is the problem manifested when when the vehicle is cold or at operating temp? Is the check engine lamp ON indicating a code?
Does the Check Engine lamp activate for about 2 seconds when you initially start the vehicle and then shut off? Check this and then report back.

Not to make your life more miserable, but please consider buying a HELM Service Manual. You need it for any DIY repairs.

Awaiting your update.
Thanks for your help, I really appreciated!:)

The problems occurs when the vehicle is at operating temp, when cold, it doesn't happen as much, although I usually wait for the car to get warmer then drive it anyway.

And the Check Engine lamp is not giving any code, I jumped my service connector and the light just stayed lit constantly, no flashes to indicate code. I will buy a Manual as soon as possible. Thanks again.
 

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Usually, most of the components which effect idle control have sensors and thus will trigger a code. From the HELM Service Manual (92 Cpe) page 11-67. If the idle speed is out of spec and there is no Code 14, check the following:
Idle speed adjustment
Air conditioning signal
Alternator FR signal
A/T shift position signal
M/T neutral switch signal
M/T clutch switch signal
Starter switch signal
Brake switch signal
P/S oil pressure switch signal
Fast Idle Valve
Air Boost Valve
Hoses and Connections
EACV and its mounting O-rings

If the above check out, then substitute a known good EACV and readjust the idle speed. If this doesn't correct the problem, then you need to substitute a known good ECU.

Your idle is a bit low. Start with adjusting that. The surging could also be due to air entering the cooling system due to a cracked upper radiator tank.

Does your CHECK ENGINE indicator lamp activate for about 2 seconds when the ignition is initially turned on? Rule out ECU problem.
Have you checked all of the fuses in the underdash and underhood? Esp. No 13 (7.5amp) under dash 3rd row from top, second one in.

I forgot to ask: How many miles on the vehicle and when you had the service was the fuel filter replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks again :)
Wow that's a lot of things to check, you got all that just from the helms manual?

My check engine light does stay on for 2 seconds when I start the car.

I will go check the fuses now, also the radiator looks to be ok, I can't see any cracks just by inpecting it visually.

My car has 89,xxx miles, my last service was the 90k service which included Timing belt and water pump package. I don't believe the fuel filter was replace, I guess I'll get that replaced soon.

My legend is my only car, but I can't drive it now, because I don't want to stumble down the street. It's also kinda dangerous, because when the car surges, I feel like I don't have control of the car.:(
 

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Much of the info I provided was straight from the "Bible"...HELM. It really is worth every penny of its $70 cost. I strongly suspect that the problem is the fuel filter (nice inexpensive repair)...but now I am doing what I always frown upon..."guesstimating". It doesn't take much of a crack to allow air to infiltrate (actually sucked) into the cooling system. Telltale sign is green dried coolant along the edge. If the radiator is more than 4 yrs old, I would suspect it to be leaking especially if the throttle & cruise cables are still attached to the bracket which is mounted to the upper radiator tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OH CRAP! That's how you tell the radiator has a crack?

I have some dried green smudge along the seams of the radiator. Damn that sucks!!! I'm pretty sure the radiator is as old as the car!

But wouldn't a cracked radiator cause overheating? My car never overheated.

Anyways, as I'm typing, my order for the helms manual is being processed by Helms :)

I will get both the fuel filter changed and get my radiator check as soon as possible. Thank you so much:)
 

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A small hairline crack may initially not be large enough to cause the vehicle to overheat. One indicator of coolant loss is whether or not you have had to replenish the coolant reservoir. My own experience is that either a very small hairline crack or a dirty Throttle Body did cause an episode (couple Xs) of erratic idle. I can't be certain as I replaced the radiator (because it was almost 4 yrs old) and cleaned the T-B at the same time. Erratic idle (actually a drop then recover) symptom disappeared. I had to replace my OEM radiator at around 58k miles. When you buy a replacement radiator, buy a new radiator cap and thermosensor. You need to buy a thermosensor gasket anyway. And don't forget to reinstall the foam seals taken from the old unit. Actually, with an A/T this would be the best time to clean the T-B as well as replace the 4 A/T cooler hoses.
 

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I have a 1994 6-speed and it is NOT smooth. I have a lot of vibration, the car shifts very rougly when cold, sometime it feels like the car is wiggling at slow speeds, and there are a lot of rattles and creaks when I hit bumps. I'm hoping a new intake and exhaust can help with some of that...I have heard some Legend owners say that their cars drive much more smoothly after those items are in place.

I (and many others here) have had to replace the radiators, usually around 60K. Good luck buddy...

J-CincoTwent
 

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yeah don't buy a oem acura radiator they last 95000 miles the longest. I bought mine at radiator.com for less than half price of factory and no problems yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Another UPDATE!

Finally I got done with finals this week, I decided to tackle my problem with all the suggestions you guys made. I cleaned my fuel injectors, and I cleaned my throttle body. But neither helped with my problem.

So today I had to move out of the dorms and back home (80 mile trip). I was hesitant to drive my car because of all the problems, but I have to get my car back home. It was the most horrifying driving experience I've ever had in my life. At times, the car would be smooth as new. Then it would have the stumble problem, where the throttle cuts in and out continously. (My car looked like it was on hydrolic...lol) Then at one point the throttle cut out completely, I was driving at 80MPH, suddenly the speed just started to drop, I tried to floor it and there was just no response what so ever, it didn't even rev. It eventually slowed to 20mph and suddenly the throttle came back and the car ran normal again.

Now finally to the somewhat good news, my "Check Engine" light finally came on during my trip. BTW: I got home ok. MY got home and jump the service connector, to get the code. It gave a code 7, which is Throttle angle sensor.

My question, could this be the only thing causing all my problems? or is there something else that can be the culprit.
Also how much is it to replace this sensor?
Thanks in Advance.
 
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