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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, need help with my 1989 Acura Legend. Keep in mind here I'm a woman and don't do work on the car, just trying to get an idea of what's wrong so when I take it to get fixed, I'm not getting screwed.
The check engine light has been on for months and stays on constantly, I wasn't worried as I was told and had read that that was a common problem with older Acura's and also, had no problems that would have been related to that light.
The past couple of weeks the light is not on until I drive the car for 15 minutes, maybe longer then it comes on. Sometimes, depending on how long I'm driving, it will go off and then later come back on again. The car also does a kind of momentary surge-lag at the moment the light comes on and also did it twice yesterday while the light was on. Don't know what the heck is wrong. Any ideas from anyone? I appreciate any help you could give :)
Thanks!
 

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you need to check the little blinking light on the computer when the car is turned to the ON position... (correct me if i'm wrong) The computer should be below the carpet where the front passengers feet sit (if not.. check under the front paasenger seat) Count the number of blinks and if you don't have the manual available.. tell us the code and we will tell you what it means...

I'm gonna put $5 on it being an O2 sensor... not a big deal... but I won't get ahead of myself...

~Mike~
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Ok, will the light only be blinking the code when the check engine light is on? If that's the case I'll have to wait until tomorrow after I've driven the car for a few minutes for the check engine light to come on. Will the lights constantly blink while the check engine light is on?

Thanks so much!
 

· Mo*or Mo**h
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The codes are retained in the ECU until manually cleared by pulling the Alt Sense fuse in the under-hood fuse box.

I predict a Code 12 = EGR Valve
It's the only one which takes driving time to initiate.

But, be sure to check for multiple codes which read sequentially, then start over.

IOW, the code will be displayed anytime the ignition switch is ON (II position).
Another tip, if you have a Coupe, the ECU is not under the passenger seat, it's under the leading edge of the passenger carpet near the center corner.
 

· Mo*or Mo**h
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Four times = Code 4 = Crank Sensor (also referred to as CRANK/CYL Sensor)

"The Crank Sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects engine RPM. The CYL Sensor detects the position of No. 1 cylinder for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder."

Manual has testing procedures. But, first thing to do is reset the ECU by pulling the ALT SENSE fuse in the under hood fuse box for 10 seconds to see if the code repeats.

An intermittent failure (code) may clear up and does not represent a problem.

Next would be to check for a good connection at the sensor connector. Near the passenger shock tower mount under the hood. (I don't actually know where it is). Maybe someone else could jump in. Isn't this one behind the pulley cover in front of the timing belt?
 

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this is the same issue ive been having...
4 blinks = crank angle sensor... but it only comes on under hardish acceleration or load.. ie. going up a long hill...
i also get the slight surge...
once or twice ive gotten a 2 (o2 sensor) and not a 4...
all of the conditions and circumstances point to o2 sensor and not crank angle sensor...
and the crank angle sensor is an EXPENSIVE thing to replace... ($156 canadian + timing belt $60 + water pump $70 + 6+ hours labour $300-400)
i REALLY think there is a bug where the o2 sensor causes the wrong reading...
i would really suggest replacing the rear or both o2 sensors... should be able to get cheap aftermarket ones at $20usd a pop (www.rockauto.com for instance)...
definately try this before the crank angle sensor... and as soon as i have money to do it i will let you know...
keep me updated...
maytag

ps just read kahruzers post... gonna try that myself...
 

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· Mo*or Mo**h
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I would tend to agree with maytagman. Especially since the O2 sensors actually determine the richness of the fuel mixture, so they coordinate in some way. Besides that, O2 sensors are notoriously slow to produce a code when bad.

But, I'd also reset first to see if the code returns. And, also check for a loose connection at the sensor. Our cars are old enough that contact corrosion becomes an issue, so be sure to unplug it and re-plug it at least. Perhaps an emory board filing on the contacts themselves.

Be sure to let us know how this works out. We do need to know.
 

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im going by i bought it used with no service history and it had been poorly maintained....
i just changed the fuel filter and it is most likely the first/second time its been changed... the fuel coming out was BROWN!!!!!
felt like a new car after that... so if they didnt do a $20 fuel filter... im guessing no $600-700 timing belt :S
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Oh and also, Maytagman mentioned having the same problem. But not having exactly the same problem as you. The check engine light doesn't come on going up a hill or heavy loads, it just comes on and goes off here and there. When the light comes on there's a surge/lag but other than that nothing. Surprisingly when the check engine light is on, the car seems to run better. I know that's weird but it seems to have more power when accelerating upon shifting. Do you think that would relate to any other problems?
 

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well if its running rich then you should have slightly more power...
so this makes sense... the connectors on the o2 sensors are probably a because they are on the exhaust... check the cable/connection on the crank sensor though... and if i were you id order two o2 sensors (cheapest i can find is $18usd from www.rockauto.com) and get a shop to install them... they are damn hard to remove as the exhaust heat practically welds them inplace. should only be about one hour labour.. so probably $100ish total... im banking that this will solve your issues... and o2 sensors die fairly often anyways so its not a waste of money if it doesnt solve the problem... but im pretty sure it will. dont let anyone talk you into more expensive o2 sensors and buy them yourself and bring them to the shop, this way the shop cant rip you off on the cost of the part with their markup... and tell them not to fix anything else.

if this doesnt fix your problem id do more diagnostics on the crank sensor... and as soon as i find a manual for the car ill tell you what they are :)
if you are due for a timing belt it would be a good idea to just replace the crank sensor... this job is a much more expensive $800 ish for everything... but you will need to do the timing belt at some point anyways so its once again not money wasted... its cheap insurance that your engine wont die on you. $800 is much cheaper than a new crapier car :D

maytag
 
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