Acura Legend Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got this clicking sound that comes from my controll box at the beginning of low end in every gear.. like up to 1700rpm or so, its a very fast clicking, i didnt notice it untill i was driving around with the cap off the controll box.
its comming from a little electronic valve with a big black round plastic cap with a filter on top of it, if you open the control box its almost the first thing you see on the drivers side of it. I dont know if this is normal and i just didnt notice it or what. I think it may go to the bypass manifold but i'm not sure.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,259 Posts
cigarettcancerman said:
I got this clicking sound that comes from my controll box at the beginning of low end in every gear.. like up to 1700rpm or so, its a very fast clicking, i didnt notice it untill i was driving around with the cap off the controll box.
its comming from a little electronic valve with a big black round plastic cap with a filter on top of it, if you open the control box its almost the first thing you see on the drivers side of it. I dont know if this is normal and i just didnt notice it or what. I think it may go to the bypass manifold but i'm not sure.
I believe the clicking sound is coming from the EGR control solenoid valve, somewhat similar symptom when EACV/IAC valve is faulty/bad... perhaps the ECU is blinking code 14?!?

I think the black round plastic cap is constant vacuum control (CVC) valve which connects to air chamber and vacuum tank, associated components are all tied to the EGR valve.

This isn't normal, emission control component(s) might be going bad.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
would there be any symptoms to this? my car has had a rough idle since ive had it.

I plan on disabling my EGR and AIV valve soon as i get my car running again because im going to put a rear exhaust manifold on the front and run a Y pipe.

i dont have any ecu codes. also, where is the vacuum tank for it? i took out a vacuume tank in my bumper to run my CAI into the hole it was blocking
 

· Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
where is the IAC valve? idle air controller right? and does anyone know how to trouble shoot it? thats one thing my haynes manual doesnt say anything about.

if you turn close your idle screw far as it can go shoudnt your engine cut off or somthing? with mine closed all the way my car still runs at factory specs 750rpm, ive been concered that there may be a vaccume leak causing this but i cant find a leak anywhere.

i still cant get my car running yet untill i can get a headgasket/oil/coolant/sealant/ring compressor and assembly lube so i guess ill have to wait untill i get my monthly check to try some things.

btw, by monthly check i dont mean wellfare or anything lol, its from my broker lol
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,259 Posts
cigarettcancerman said:
would there be any symptoms to this? my car has had a rough idle since ive had it.
Leaking EGR valve can also cause rough idle, so does faulty or bad EACV/IAC (specially under a load like A/C, heater or headlights)
where is the vacuum tank for it.
Two black plastic vacuum tanks (only ONE unit really) mounted on the firewall, behind the engine.
where is the EACV/IAC; Idle Air Controller.
To the right of the throttle body, mounted on top of the intake manifold plenum... erratic idle or engine loops is an indication of faulty/bad EACV/IAC valve, cleaning air management components is needed.
if you turn close your idle far as it can go shouldnt your engine cutoff or somthing.
Yet another indication of faulty or bad EACV/IAC.

One other air management component is the fast idle valve, the one below EACV/IAC valve, I suggest you remove and clean this as well... dont forget to replace the 2 o-rings on the base of EACV/AIC and 1 figure 8 o-ring for the fast idle valve, hope this helps... good luck!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Does anyone know how low/high you are supposed to be able to make the idle by turning the idle adjust screw?
My idle maybe rised 200rpm from fully open to full closed, and maybe 3-400 rpm if i take it completley out. ive tried spraying about half a can of cleaner into the hole.

i think i have a EIVC instead of a EACV, do you know how to troubleshoot this? or is there a safe way to disable this?

I've still got alot to learn about emissions systems. this is the 2nd car i've owned that wasnt carburated, the first being a 89 celica ST back when i was 16 and didnt know much. I still miss that car

oyea, the thing thats clicking has 2 vac hoses, one running to another valve in the control box, these hoses are 5 and 11, 5 runs into the throttlebody and charcoal canistor and 11 is for the EGR valve

I sucked on the erg valve when the car still ran and it got a bad idle and stalled, like its supposed to. I took the EGR valve off today and checked it out, it seems to be air tight, i tried to blow air through it. so i just stuck some BB's that are small enough to fit in the rubber hose, but not small enough to fit in the components it connects to, just to block it off.

you know anything about disabling any of these things?
ive heard good and bad things, but its hard to believe having a car eat its own waste can be good for the engine. yea it keeps engine temp down, reducing preignition, but can out block really get that hot just from that?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,259 Posts
I personally does not pay attention on how high or low the idle adjustment screw travels and I simply just go by the methods given in the repair manual as far as idle adjustment is concern.

EACV/IAC/EIVC are all the same unit, system name changed with different year-model... ie; 86-90 integra, 86-90 legend, 91-93 integra, etc., etc.

No troubleshooting... any system fault, the ECU will throw out diagnostic trouble code and you cant disable it either, valve is temperature sensitive controlled, reacting to coolant being circulated through the valve body.

I believe the clicking noise is coming from the thermovalve, if you follow #5 vacuum hose from REAR of the throttlebody, it T's off to the CVC valve on to a small air chamber then EGR control solenoid valve, from there #11 vacuum hose goes directly to the EGR valve, the EGR valve lift sensor (unit on top of EGR valve) most likely will cause your code 12 and NOT the EGR valve itself.

Emission requirements varies from state to state, bypassing ANY of the emission control systems out here in CALIFORNIA is asking for trouble.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i live in virginia, there are no emissions testing here, it doesnt matter anyway because i go to this little shop in the ghetto. Ive been going there for 3 years and they pass it for anything.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top