[LunarU4EA]

I'm stilling have a clutch problem, after expensive repairs. Anyone else? I've replaced the master cylinder, then of course the slave died. Now it's again not wanting to disengage. The pedal feels fine, but I can't put it in gear. The shift gates won't let me in. This is the same as when the master and slave cylinders needed replacing. It's not as bad as then, and will work again for a while, then start screwing up. I can shut the car off, then shift into first, and restart. On restart either it the starter pulls the car forward, or the problem clears and it is fine for a while. Either it shifts normally, or I have to speed shift. Having spent ALOT of money on the master and cylinder, this is very annoying, and probably damaging the transmission. Anyone else have past experience? I'll have to call the garage and find out if they replaced the throw-out bearing when they did the other work, but what else could it be?

 

[Kylefire5]

I dont have any ideda about clutches but the past couple of days mine was feeling very weird it would engage all the way but it would not disengage....it was still driveable but hard to shift then after about two days it fixed itself ....i dont know?

 

[88_acro]

maybe a bent fork? (the thing that the slave pushes on)

 

[5speed]

Could be the fork. I had one break. Are you losing brake fluid? Check the hose under the hood. Last time I couldn't get in gear it turned out to be a leak in the hose.

 

[LunarU4EA]

I haven't spotted any fluid leaks. I've been watching the reservoirs closely. The bent fork seems the most plausible so far, however if anyone has any other ideas or experiences, pass them on. It did the same thing this morning. I started it, then couldn't get it into gear. turned it off, put it in first and started. Shifted smoothly all the way to work.

 

[paulo57509]

If the clutch fork is bent, the clutch isn't going disengage and the engage willy-nilly. Either it works or it doesn't. The fork doesn't bend and unbend itself.

If the pedal is adjusted properly (see your shop manual for specs) and you still have the problem, I think you have air in the hydraulic system.

 

[1990Legend_LS_5spd]

Could it be that the clutch disk is sticking on the input shaft? Lack of lubrication will cause this binding issue that many know about. The release bearing could also binding and sticking on the shaft. To check these im pretty sure you have to remove the trans from the car. Does the clutch need to be replaced? The problem your describing can only be caused by binding parts or worn out hydralics. If those componets did fail it may have been due to these sticking, binding mechanical parts. I know on some american cars you can spray some WD-40 down inside the clutch fork hole to lube the shaft the release bearing rides on. One problem, you may get oil on the clutch disk. Either way, it sounds like you may have to pull the transmission.

 

[88_acro]

id say lube the fork first then see wat happens

 

[ND1980LS]

Maybe it's about time that you took your car to a professional to get fixed... instead of this.....guess it's this....or think it's that...before you ruin any of the new parts you've already installed.

 

[pnoye2]

I'll have to call the garage and find out if they replaced the throw-out bearing when they did the other work

^^^ this bothers the hell out of me... although a release bearing is usually replaced during a clutch job.

This could also cause your problem... sometimes when a new release bearing is purchased, the collar (hub) is reused, get a confirmation from the garage if the collar is part of the bearing assembly or if they indeed installed the collar in the new bearing.

Other possibilities; off-center front bearing retainer (often called a quill) which fits around the outside of the transmission input shaft and/or as simple as misaligned release bearing.

 

[LunarU4EA]

Maybe it's about time that you took your car to a professional to get fixed... instead of this.....guess it's this....or think it's that...before you ruin any of the new parts you've already installed.

That's just it. The professionals have been fixing it. The same garage that I used to trust explicitly has gone through an ownership change a few years ago, and now has a new service manager since I bought this car. I still want to be able to trust them, but I like getting input on what other experiences anyone has had. So far, this is beginning to sound like it won't be another $300 repair, which is good. The most difficult part is getting back and forth to work while it's in the shop, too. So while I arrange that, I'm just gathering as much info as possible. Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[Mr. Bigs]

Heres the skinny

That's just it. The professionals have been fixing it. The same garage that I used to trust explicitly has gone through an ownership change a few years ago, and now has a new service manager since I bought this car. I still want to be able to trust them, but I like getting input on what other experiences anyone has had. So far, this is beginning to sound like it won't be another $300 repair, which is good. The most difficult part is getting back and forth to work while it's in the shop, too. So while I arrange that, I'm just gathering as much info as possible. Thanks for everyone's input.

I had the same problem with my g1 coupe. After dropping the transmission, I found that the there was a bearing that had made its way through the tranmission and was riding on the throwout bearing causing it to bind. Luckily for me the pressure plate and disc were fine ( I checked them both throughly ). I then replaced the transmission and my car has been running good and strong ever since.

 

[LunarU4EA]

What the pros say;

After having it since Monday, they dropped the transmission on Thursday, and found that weights within the clutch assembly had gotten loose. In order to correct that, they have to buy an entire clutch kit. While they're doing that, they say the rear seal needs to be replaced, the tranny mount, and the oil-pan gasket. Very expensive. I'm not too upset about the clutch kit. I wear out the friction parts of clutches prettily regularly. I just can't escape the feeling that I may be getting worked on the whole deal. I know the labor charges have gotten steeper. In the future, I'm gonna shop around for better prices on that, and get testimonials to other places, and this one.

 

[ND1980LS]

That's just it. The professionals have been fixing it. The same garage that I used to trust explicitly has gone through an ownership change a few years ago, and now has a new service manager since I bought this car. I still want to be able to trust them, but I like getting input on what other experiences anyone has had. So far, this is beginning to sound like it won't be another $300 repair, which is good. The most difficult part is getting back and forth to work while it's in the shop, too. So while I arrange that, I'm just gathering as much info as possible. Thanks for everyone's input.

Then I just don't understand the whole issue. If I take my car into my Acura dealer to get something fixed...they tell me what's wrong and the cost to fix it. Here it seems you took it in....not sure what they fixed for how much...and then your transmission still doesn't work. Then you take it back and there's all this additional work they say needs to be done. Then you say you spent $ 300 on the first repair....which sounds kind of cheap to me for transmission work in the first place !

 

[LunarU4EA]

Then I just don't understand the whole issue. If I take my car into my Acura dealer to get something fixed...they tell me what's wrong and the cost to fix it. Here it seems you took it in....not sure what they fixed for how much...and then your transmission still doesn't work. Then you take it back and there's all this additional work they say needs to be done. Then you say you spent $ 300 on the first repair....which sounds kind of cheap to me for transmission work in the first place !

No transmission work. The transmission is fine. This is all clutch work. The reason you find that so cheap is because you go to the dealer, which charges more than twice what anyone would. My stupid ex got a quote over $1000 just to redo the friction parts on her CRX. (More money than sense.) That's my rant againsts dealer mechanics. Now what was fixed on my car initially was the master clutch. What I was told (but not by enough people) is that a brand new master cylinder will likely hasten the death of the slave cylinder. So that got replaced next. That repair was pricey because I included other repairs including a new timing belt. I think the slave was less than $200, but the timing belt was astronomical. Then the clutch started acting up again, though not as bad, and it wasn't the hydraulics. According to my garage, there were counterweights behind the clutch plate that had come loose and were creating issues. I'd be interested in finding out if anyone else had ever heard of this. I have not. It's possible, considering I drove the car without a functional clutch, which probably didn't do it any good whatsoever. I only drove it as far as the garage, but still. I can't say with any certainty that anything they said or did was not valid, but I'm wary of them now. I've never had such a succession of problems with the Prelude. I am going to seek out an alternative local garage to consider taking my car to, but it won't be the dealership. Sorry. My car is running superbly now, so I'm happy. Thanks for the help.

 

[red4re]

Clutch Master Cylinder

Did you replace the clutch master cylinder yourself, if you did I would appreciated any advice on what I need to know to do it. 1988 Legend 2 door LS with 285K miles. Looking under the hood it looks impossible. I have tools and a hoist and have replace the slave cylinder. Please help.

Thank you,

John B

email: red4re@hotmail.com