ok my situation was with a camry I toased the distributor but sine legend have coil pack you can try that or anything along that line
Code 15???
I am trying to find a good cause for a code 15. I originally purchased my car with a blown head gasket, did the HG job only to find two stripped head bolts upon reassembly...car ran anyhow, but it would overheat after about 15 min. Left town and battery took a crap. Jumped the car to start it 2 or 3 times and on the last trip a chekc engine light came on and the motor died. Couldn't pull a code cuz the battery was toast.
Fast forward a couple months...I've now replaced the entire engine. Won't start. Gives me a code 15 "Ignition Ountput Signal" code.
I'm just trying to figure out what there could be left in the car that could cause such a code, as all the sensors got replaced with the swap. Bad ECU perhaps? I don't know if the jump starts maybe fried it or what.
As a side note, the tach was working only intermittently when the car was running. Now that the car won't start, it doesn't bounce or do anything. Dont' know if this may have something to do with it or not, but I just find it to be suspect.
Any Ideas? I've been up for well over 36hrs and my brain is gone...please help.
Fast forward a couple months...I've now replaced the entire engine. Won't start. Gives me a code 15 "Ignition Ountput Signal" code.
I'm just trying to figure out what there could be left in the car that could cause such a code, as all the sensors got replaced with the swap. Bad ECU perhaps? I don't know if the jump starts maybe fried it or what.
As a side note, the tach was working only intermittently when the car was running. Now that the car won't start, it doesn't bounce or do anything. Dont' know if this may have something to do with it or not, but I just find it to be suspect.
Any Ideas? I've been up for well over 36hrs and my brain is gone...please help.
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Negative...if you think about that, you would be saying that 12 coil packs were all bad. Remember, this is the second engine that won't start. 6 coil packs per motor, 2 motors. Not a chance they're all bad.whyteLegend said:ok my situation was with a camry I toased the distributor but sine legend have coil pack you can try that or anything along that line
Let me refine my question...are there any sensors NOT mounted on the motor that would throw this code?
This is the resoning that brings me to believe that the ECU is toast...I'm just looking for opinions to back that prognosis, or if there is something else that would cause this problem, I could really use that information.
Thanks for the help, guys!
1. Reconnect all connectors in the harness that are remotely near the ignition system
2. Check for ground wire that were not connected when engine was installed. I know for a fact that the ground that connects to the thermostat housing will disable the ignition if left off. OOPS! There are also grounds on the fuel rail that must be connected.
3. Replace IGNITOR.
4. ECU
2. Check for ground wire that were not connected when engine was installed. I know for a fact that the ground that connects to the thermostat housing will disable the ignition if left off. OOPS! There are also grounds on the fuel rail that must be connected.
3. Replace IGNITOR.
4. ECU
1. Everything's connected as far as the wiring harness goesJetdoc said:1. Reconnect all connectors in the harness that are remotely near the ignition system
2. Check for ground wire that were not connected when engine was installed. I know for a fact that the ground that connects to the thermostat housing will disable the ignition if left off. OOPS! There are also grounds on the fuel rail that must be connected.
3. Replace IGNITOR.
4. ECU
2. The ground wires are where thay're supposed to be
3. Where is the IGNITOR at? I didn't think the car had one considering it's coil-on-plug ignition. If it's on the motor, it's been replaced.
4. That's what I'm thinking it is...either the ECU, or I got a tip from Acura today about the ignition switch...anyone know anything about them going bad?
Thanks for the helpful advice. The things to keep in mind are that the 1st engine ran, then quit directly after a check engine light, and the 2nd one won't start, but gives me a code 15. (No Ignition Signal)
Thanks again, guys.
Just replaced igniter, only to find that it isn't the cause of the problem. On top of that, mine is also good, as I tested it on a car that runs, and that car started with my igniter on it.
So, now I'm down to just the ignition switch or the ECU, which I think is still good as it is supplying me with a code.
"Ignition Output Signal", Code 15...the only thing keeping my Legend from being reborn.
So, now I'm down to just the ignition switch or the ECU, which I think is still good as it is supplying me with a code.
"Ignition Output Signal", Code 15...the only thing keeping my Legend from being reborn.
The ignition switch on these Legends are known to have problems. If the ECU is returning you a code-odds are it is good....
...But have there ben specific problems with the ignition switch not sending power to the igniter? That's what I think is happening...I've been doing a lot of reading. Otherwise, the ignition switch seems to work properly. There is no starting and stalling...all it does is crank. I'm gettign ready to go check the injector pulse with a noid light.morbo said:The ignition switch on these Legends are known to have problems. If the ECU is returning you a code-odds are it is good....
I just sent ya a PM man.ntensehonda said:but have there ben specific problems with the ignition switch not sending power to the igniter? That's what I think is happening...I've been doing a lot of reading. Otherwise, the ignition switch seems to work properly. There is no starting and stalling...all it does is crank. I'm gettign ready to go check the injector pulse with a noid light.
One thing to consider is the main relay as well.....
Just tested injector pulse with a noid light, and I get the very first signal to pulse the injector, but then nothing else as I continue to crank the motor. If I turn the key off and then crank again, I get one injector pulse...every time.
Just pulled the dash piece off to check the main relay...3 clicks. I'm running out of thoughts.
Here's what I know:
1. NO start, JUST cranking
2. DO have fuel pump working
3. Only ONE injector pulse
4. Main relay GOOD
5. Igniter is GOOD
6. ECU I believe to be GOOD (Gives me a code 15, anyway)
7. Tach NOT working
8. Ignition switch SEEMS to be okay, not showing any normal symptoms
???I'm terribly vexed???
Here's what I know:
1. NO start, JUST cranking
2. DO have fuel pump working
3. Only ONE injector pulse
4. Main relay GOOD
5. Igniter is GOOD
6. ECU I believe to be GOOD (Gives me a code 15, anyway)
7. Tach NOT working
8. Ignition switch SEEMS to be okay, not showing any normal symptoms
???I'm terribly vexed???
Originally Posted by sterling827
5 - There is good continuity on the single blue wire from coil primary to the igniter. I don’t know what is the reason for this wire.
Originally Posted by 91LegendL
That wire is the Ground (-) signal to the coil! The other blue wire that is with the Blk/Yel wire is an output to the tach, Cruise and TCU (Auto only).
I'm going to take a guess it's that Blue wire is the culprit.....
5 - There is good continuity on the single blue wire from coil primary to the igniter. I don’t know what is the reason for this wire.
Originally Posted by 91LegendL
That wire is the Ground (-) signal to the coil! The other blue wire that is with the Blk/Yel wire is an output to the tach, Cruise and TCU (Auto only).
I'm going to take a guess it's that Blue wire is the culprit.....
Using this thread (This thread is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo useful it needs to be in the FAQ). http://www.legend-forum.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=71499&highlight=ignition+wiring
http://img340.imageshack.us/my.php?image=detailedlegenddiagrams36ul.jpg
http://img57.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ecupintosensors20vx.jpg
I think the wire we're looking as the cause for your problem is the "c4" connector on the ECU-which is indeed blue.
Try to check this wire for continuity, I surely hope that's the problem.....
Could be a bad wire from one of the coils, or maybe a bad connection to the ECU as well, but that "c4" connector is the only logical remaining culprit. Please gimme a call (I pm'd ya my #) if you need anything else
http://img340.imageshack.us/my.php?image=detailedlegenddiagrams36ul.jpg
http://img57.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ecupintosensors20vx.jpg
I think the wire we're looking as the cause for your problem is the "c4" connector on the ECU-which is indeed blue.
Try to check this wire for continuity, I surely hope that's the problem.....
Could be a bad wire from one of the coils, or maybe a bad connection to the ECU as well, but that "c4" connector is the only logical remaining culprit. Please gimme a call (I pm'd ya my #) if you need anything else
Try "shaking down" the wiring while trying to start the engine. "Shake down" means grab the engine wiring harness at several different locations and shake or wiggle it. This might just help you find your wiring problem. If this doesn't help, bite the bullet and get an ECU from Ebay and try it.
Recheck all fuses and engine bay grounds.
Recheck all fuses and engine bay grounds.
Jet
I should have known that the g2's don't use a distributer, chalk that one up to me at 2 am
But using that wiring schematic I posted from the g2 section, wouldn't the wire I isolated be the likely cause?
I should have known that the g2's don't use a distributer, chalk that one up to me at 2 am
But using that wiring schematic I posted from the g2 section, wouldn't the wire I isolated be the likely cause?
I hope it is, as I'm going to be shaking down, poking holes and using dynomite to find this problem.
OK, this sounds like something I had a problem with after my repaint. I had the engine totally disconnected from anything around the firewall.
There are 4 large connector plugs (I think they're all gray or tan) near the ABS reservior. 2 of those plugs are interchangable and when you accidently swap them, you'll get a no start. Find those 2 plugs and swap them. See if that helps. It won't hurt anything to swap them, since I accidently had them swapped at one point.
If that doesn't work, I'm going to go with either a harness problem, or a bad ECU. Let me know.
There are 4 large connector plugs (I think they're all gray or tan) near the ABS reservior. 2 of those plugs are interchangable and when you accidently swap them, you'll get a no start. Find those 2 plugs and swap them. See if that helps. It won't hurt anything to swap them, since I accidently had them swapped at one point.
If that doesn't work, I'm going to go with either a harness problem, or a bad ECU. Let me know.
It is now :2cool:morbo said:Using this thread (This thread is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo useful it needs to be in the FAQ). http://www.legend-forum.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=71499&highlight=ignition+wiring
Thanks, Mike, I'll give that a shot...that would be sooo cool if that was the only problem.
so, a head gasket job, then a code 15 and no start, new motor, then a new wiring harness later, and my car W I L L N O T ST A R T! ! !
I digress...after installing the harness, it started for a sec, then died. I turn the key on again, and the check engine light stays on...I'm trying to figure out the trick about it wanting to start, but we shall soon see.
Any ideas?
I digress...after installing the harness, it started for a sec, then died. I turn the key on again, and the check engine light stays on...I'm trying to figure out the trick about it wanting to start, but we shall soon see.
Any ideas?
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
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